romping problem

[Bobs 7.3]

duty cycle is at 25 to 26 percent?

what cps do you have in it? could be the UVCH has a bad connection for some reason now..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

I have a new black cps in it (The one most sought after) as I bought 2 off the neighbor that sold his 7.3 and had them laying in there boxes from international. I was thinking atleast one side uvch as 3 cylinders are on that side. Maybie both sides are messed up dues to moving the wires around after not being touched for 5 to 6 years. I know the wires were damn there stiff when I was unplugging them but couldn't recall how stiff they were when new. I should get new uvch and maybie new gaskets but the pins on the gaskets looked great no burnt spots of any kind but atleast Id know there new from ford or international. I have injector o-ring kits from alliance here but no means of pressurizing the heads individually as I don't know how to make the hose to hook to the compressor and head. I mean the compressor side is easy the head side I have no idea. Atleast then Icould pressurize each head before installing the new gaskets and uvch and if any injectors were pushing oil threw the top id change them O-rings. THAT WOULD KILL ALL THE BIRDS IN THERE AND START LOOKING ELSEWARE FOR THE PROBLEM. I had a black cps in there before and didn't change with the new one so I know it isn't that.

 

[Bobs 7.3]

This was my bell ringer.. it appears to have a leak or leaky injs. Most see 12-13% here. The IPR 'gate' needs to be open a bit more to keep up with command. But, it would be good to confirm the power supply with a buzz also.

For me, the VCs would be coming off.

Would one injector O-rings cause all of them to give numbers like that or would that be a problem with each injector? Swamps is reburning the chip as we speak and bumping up the idle a bit and the icp a tad but im thinking that isn't going to fix the romp as now it feels like it has a miss too. Im starting to think I should have not went with an injector that wasn't tried and true over and over again. All this money im not dealing with injector problems as I should be injector problem free. Starting to get a bit aggravated.

 

[Countrycar]

I just did a search and came up with this tool. I'm sure a guy could make this tool and save himself the money. I've never used one, as I've never had to check for leaks at the injectors or HPOP system, but this should do it.
https://www.accuratediesel.com/shop/260.html
On Edit: The only thing I don't see on this tool is a gauge. I personally would add one somewhere with in the system to have the ability to monitor PSI.

 

[dsberman94]

I have the oil rail fittings. I'm pretty sure they're sitting down in pittston. I'd be willing to part with them but you'll have to get a gauge and hose made up as well as get a fitting to close off one hpo line at a time. There's a place over by cook brothers truck parts that sells and makes hydraulic stuff. I believe the name is RG GROUP. Or something similar. That's where I got my fittings. I'd imagine you could get hose and line through them as well. However I want to say the reason for your readings is those injectors are using A LOT of oil. Get your adrenaline in the truck and go from there.

 

[dsberman94]

If you get that adrenaline it only takes me a few hours to swap them out. Hardest part is the hpop gear and getting to that gear. It's a 2 person job for me usually. I start a new job this Monday and as far as I know I'll be on the road all week long. Next weekend would be the earliest I'd be able to give you a hand if needed. I also have, or had, the hpop line tool. Makes life a lot easier. I loaned it to my Buffy's uncle and he may still have it. I have to look through my truck for it or get it back from him if he still has it.

 

[Bobs 7.3]

Thanks ill have to look into the pump. I got a cct ran 5 times and number 5 cylinder and number 8 cylinder come up one after another as I redo the test as contribution/balance. Ill run a buzz test in the morning as I tried running it right after I had it running (before I remembered its better cold and easier to hear) but I couldn't hear anything from inside the truck and the hood shut. If they all buzz the same and loud then ill contact Swamps I guess and tell him 2 injectors are throwing a fit. All I can think of is either both uvch are bad or both vc gaskets or all If they buzz correctly. I don't know if O-rings will make it fail the test or not? May just be 2 bad injectors or bad O-rings as there the 2 most pain to put in but I didn't do anything differently with them as I did the rest.

 

[dsberman94]

Which cylinders does the black cps cause to fail? I think I remember the different cps making different cylinders fail a contribution test. I think gray is usually 3. Black could be 5 and 8. I'm not sure.

 

[Bobs 7.3]

I don't recall the black making them fail the test but the gray I believe was number 3 and 8. The 5 is odd and a pain to get in with the heater box right there maybie I messed up an o-ring putting that one in. Its weird as I ran the log stuff while it was running and did the injector miss delts and all but number 1 and 2 came up with some type of movement on the log but those 2 just stayed at zero with no percent movement. I cant see 6 of 8 injectors having a slight misfire unless somethings really messed up somewhere. Didn't have any of this till the injector swap and cup install and now a nightmare.

 

[lincolnlocker]

I don't recall the black making them fail the test but the gray I believe was number 3 and 8. The 5 is odd and a pain to get in with the heater box right there maybie I messed up an o-ring putting that one in. Its weird as I ran the log stuff while it was running and did the injector miss delts and all but number 1 and 2 came up with some type of movement on the log but those 2 just stayed at zero with no percent movement. I cant see 6 of 8 injectors having a slight misfire unless somethings really messed up somewhere. Didn't have any of this till the injector swap and cup install and now a nightmare.

get the valve covers off and start over from the beginning.. are they brand new orings? how well did you have them soaking in a vat of 15w40/stp oil treatment/or any thicker oil prior to instal? I don't remember the black cps throwing ghost fault codes.. maybe 8 but that is because that is the LL injector for split shots.. if your hpop is takin a chit then I can see that being the culprit also with bigger nozzled splits as they are oil hungry stock..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[dsberman94]

Considering he is still running a stock pump, it can't keep up with them.

 

[Bobs 7.3]

I just did a search and came up with this tool. I'm sure a guy could make this tool and save himself the money. I've never used one, as I've never had to check for leaks at the injectors or HPOP system, but this should do it.
https://www.accuratediesel.com/shop/260.html
On Edit: The only thing I don't see on this tool is a gauge. I personally would add one somewhere with in the system to have the ability to monitor PSI.

Looks well made and at that price theres no way it costs a quarter or 200 bucks to make. wish I knew what he used lol.

 

[Bobs 7.3]

get the valve covers off and start over from the beginning.. are they brand new orings? how well did you have them soaking in a vat of 15w40/stp oil treatment/or any thicker oil prior to instal? I don't remember the black cps throwing ghost fault codes.. maybe 8 but that is because that is the LL injector for split shots.. if your hpop is takin a chit then I can see that being the culprit also with bigger nozzled splits as they are oil hungry stock..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

I soaked them for about 10 min then wiped them off and coated the O-rings good with oil and installed them as the cups were just put in I didn't want them slobbered up with oil to run onto the not dry yet Loctite then waited 24hrs to fire it up.

 

[Bobs 7.3]

Considering he is still running a stock pump, it can't keep up with them.

That may be a problem here. Swamps swears these stag 2s don't use any more oil then stock splits but im starting to guess that.

 

[Bobs 7.3]

Well I couldn't get a buzz test to run for the life of me this morning for some reason it would start but never buzz and just show me codes using the car gauge pro app. I did however do some cold running tests and it showed this,
at oil temp at 18 degrees these were,
ipr= 14.3 to 14.6
inj pw= 2984.0 to 3032.5 and inbetween
icp= 725.35 psi
ipr duty cycle= 13.53%

engine oil temp rose to 33 degrees and
ipr duty cycle= 11.06

then at 33.5 degree oil temp,
icp= 548.34
ipr duty cycle= 10.44.

Any ideas?

 

[dsberman94]

I ran splits with 80% nozzles, they definitely use more. Lincolnlocker even hooked his computer up to my truck and told me ipr numbers were higher than they should be.

 

[Bobs 7.3]

Wouldn't all the injectors fail the cct if the pump was too weak at idle or atleast take turns threw out the 8 cylinders instead of just number 5 and 8 failing? At wot the pump holds 3k but starting at cold start up it seems to drop more and more as the engine warms up down to ,
icp= 474.3 to 490.2 and duty cycle of 8.5 to 8.89%.
Could the pump be just not holding enough at idle but at wot it is? I always heard the other way around but with anything of mine I suspect anything lol.

 

[lincolnlocker]

I soaked them for about 10 min then wiped them off and coated the O-rings good with oil and installed them as the cups were just put in I didn't want them slobbered up with oil to run onto the not dry yet Loctite then waited 24hrs to fire it up.

what do you mean coated? like a dab on your finger and rubbed it around?


was it actually 18° when you started it?

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[Bobs 7.3]

I didn't even think about the 18 desgrees point. Nope it was 42 degrees so this damn Bluetooth must be nuts also. I bought the obd MX for 80 bucks and 2 days ago and should be here Tuesday so it better connect and be right or its going back. Have to get AE but funds are tight till the end of next month I just don't want to screw something up running it this way till then. I pretty much put a good solid coating on each o-ring but nothing like leaving them soak and put them in. They all went in with ease but I did use the wrench method then the rubber mallet lightly to make sure they were seated.

 

[mandkole]

Wouldn't all the injectors fail the cct if the pump was too weak at idle or atleast take turns threw out the 8 cylinders instead of just number 5 and 8 failing? At wot the pump holds 3k but starting at cold start up it seems to drop more and more as the engine warms up down to ,
icp= 474.3 to 490.2 and duty cycle of 8.5 to 8.89%.
Could the pump be just not holding enough at idle but at wot it is? I always heard the other way around but with anything of mine I suspect anything lol.

The HPO pump just supplies volume. The poppets and IPR provide the restrictions to create pressure. To continue your troubleshooting confirm that the rails and injs are sealed. There's little demand at idle but the hot oil changes are what you should be concerned with. The missing comes with inconsistent or late delivery due to poor oil management/inj operation, electrical supply or tuning.

If you don't have the hand pump, you can remove inj power and crank the motor to build rail pressure while watching the injs. This will show oring or poppet leaks to eliminate that concern. A remote starter switch makes this easy as the rails should build pressure in seconds.

You could still have a tuning issue-- swamps files will be matched to the injs fuel delivery. Having those will eliminate that issue.

 

[Bobs 7.3]

The HPO pump just supplies volume. The poppets and IPR provide the restrictions to create pressure. To continue your troubleshooting confirm that the rails and injs are sealed. There's little demand at idle but the hot oil changes are what you should be concerned with. The missing comes with inconsistent or late delivery due to poor oil management/inj operation, electrical supply or tuning.

If you don't have the hand pump, you can remove inj power and crank the motor to build rail pressure while watching the injs. This will show oring or poppet leaks to eliminate that concern. A remote starter switch makes this easy as the rails should build pressure in seconds.

You could still have a tuning issue-- swamps files will be matched to the injs fuel delivery. Having those will eliminate that issue.

Awesome thank you I'll have to get the valve covers off and just leave the big main plug disconnected and have someone crank it over n watch the spouts and bases of the injectors for oil. I was locked as I didn't have a means of pressurizing the system to watch. Can't believe I didn't think of cranking it over. Thank you very much. I may not get to pulling the covers till Tuesday night but that will be done. If the OBD MX gets here then I'll run a buzz test (if it finally can) and that will tell me about the electrical side. I know the missing isn't good but I have to get to work n back so will the miss/ romp hurt anything?