Studs one at a time

sprayjock

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Ok I know there are some of you out there that are gonna say this is a bad idea, but I also know there are some of you that have done it and it was worth it. So I want someone that has done it to give me the best how to on it, mainly the tourqing process. I know pull out one bolt and put back in one stud at a time but do you tourqe them all the way at once or go through the sequence after you have them all in.

....Sorry if Im sounding stupid, but Im just wondering....
 

windrunner408

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While I havent done the one stud at a time method, I have heard of folks that have done it with great success so if you want to try it out then go for it IMO. The thing to remember here is that you are doing something not really accounted for in the intent of the manufacturer of the studs when you do it one bolt at a time. The intent is for a full headgasket replacement, thus why the sequence and tightening increments are inplace.

It makes sense to me that the torque value is much higher in importance than the torque sequence. In fact, I dont believe the torque sequence matters at all since the theory is that you are pulling only one stud and other 9 are doing the holding so I dont see how that matters unless you are not torquing down the new ones to full value when you replaced it.

I guess the long and short of it IMO is if you are going to do it, when you pull the bolt and replace it with the stud, torque the stud all the way to the recommended value.
 
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dont waste your time.the heads need to be machined to proper specs and gaskets replaced.the bolts in a 6.0 arent the main reason they blow gaskets its the heads.ive seen trucks with stock bolts and machined heads hold up.
 

03-Blue-Powerstroke

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I wouldn't do it. If you do this your assuming your head gaskets are good and the heads are flat and uncracked. Too much assuming to me :lookaround:
 

sickslow

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Considering that arp studs can be used 3 or 4 times i think ya might as well do it. If ya blow an hg then do it right and reuse the stud. If ya got the money for the h-11 studs they can be reused more than the arp studs

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Black_Pstroke

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dont do it. I did it in my 06 didnt have any issues for about 15k or so miles. But I had to redue them, not sure if it was from the stud install or the 6 gun I was running at the time. LOL
 

sprayjock

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The reason I am considering it is Im about to do my egr delete and have tunes written for my sct. I know I dont have any hg problems at the moment and was wanting to do it for a little insurance and peace of mind for the future when I get stupid and push it a little to hard on performance tune! Ive been told if I have no hg problems when I do it I should be fine, I was just wanting a little more info on doing it before I drop 400 bucks for a set of studs. :shrug:
 

kyle43335

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dont waste your time. you cant duplicate the same effective torque from the bolt to stud to accomodate head warp on each bolt. all 6.0 heads are warped. this is because of the heat induction harding process done at the factory where the heads are made. it was done incorrectly.

do it the right way once,and you wont need to do it again. imo!!!
 

03international

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dont waste your time.the heads need to be machined to proper specs and gaskets replaced.the bolts in a 6.0 arent the main reason they blow gaskets its the heads.ive seen trucks with stock bolts and machined heads hold up.


thats they first i have ever read that one anywhere. they blow head gaskets cause the bolts stretch.
 

03international

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i honestly believe its a hit or miss kind of thing. many of people have done it and never had a problem and some have done it and had them blow.
 

Pizza pig

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thats they first i have ever read that one anywhere. they blow head gaskets cause the bolts stretch.

No this is not the main idea here, TTY bolts are designed to stretch when pushed to a certain psi strength however this flies out the window if the heads arent flat. The head bolts stretch because the coolant entering the compression raises cylinder combustion pressures so high that it surpasses the TTY bolt tolerances. Now if the heads were flat, you would have to work the truck DAMN HARD to stretch a head bolt.
 

lubeowner

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So I had a truck once that stripped out the bolts that held the oil rail down. So the upper rocker box had to be replaced. The truck was studded. So we pulled the nuts off all the arps and pulled the rocker box up. So there was nothing holding the heads down. Put the new rocker box on top and cranked it all back together. Customer wanted it done as cheap as possible. So I did it. Truck runs perfect and it is beat worse then any truck I have ever seen.
 
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The head bolts stretch because the coolant entering the compression raises cylinder combustion pressures so high that it surpasses the TTY bolt tolerances. Now if the heads were flat, you would have to work the truck DAMN HARD to stretch a head bolt.

so what you are trying to say is that they were already leaking coolant, even before the bolts stretched. first off I call BS on that
secondly then according to your theory i should be good to do 1 stud at a time because in 115,000 miles mine has never used a drop of coolant EVER. therefore my HG's and bolts are just like new

lot of things can cause excessive cylinder pressure. like cranking up the fuel, like cranking up the timing. like heavyload/heavy acceleration while still cool enough to get a delay in fuel ignition. any one of them can result in an astronomical spike in cylinder pressure.
used to see it all the time on chevy 6.2's except there the weak link wasn't the HG, it was the head itself
 

co04cobra

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So I had a truck once that stripped out the bolts that held the oil rail down. So the upper rocker box had to be replaced. The truck was studded. So we pulled the nuts off all the arps and pulled the rocker box up. So there was nothing holding the heads down. Put the new rocker box on top and cranked it all back together. Customer wanted it done as cheap as possible. So I did it. Truck runs perfect and it is beat worse then any truck I have ever seen.


You have done many trucks one at a time havent you? Im going to do a motor for a buddy of mine this way. What are the failures and such you have seen doing it this way? Any? Most of the time the people that try and answer this ? have never did either way. I would like to hear input from a guy that has done it.

Ive done several 7.3s this way and never had a problem. I know its a different animal in a way, but still no failures. Most of these also are in the 500ish HP range.
 

sprayjock

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Lubeowner, have you done one at a time stud jobs?? If so what Im wanting to know is when going back in with them do you tourqe them all the way down at once or just to a certain point and then run the tourqe sequence after you have them all in??? That is my main question and no one that has done this has answered it yet, I didnt ask if I should do it or not, I asked the best way!
 

Worstenemy453

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I want to see someone mill the heads completely flat and then try to blow stock head bolts.

Anyway. All 6.0L heads are warped. Its right in the center and they can be between .005-.009 off from our experience. .01 means the head is trashed.

It is not worth the headache and time to cut corners on a 6.0L, if you want the truck to last you, then do it the right way.
 

sprayjock

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I want to see someone mill the heads completely flat and then try to blow stock head bolts.

Anyway. All 6.0L heads are warped. Its right in the center and they can be between .005-.009 off from our experience. .01 means the head is trashed.

It is not worth the headache and time to cut corners on a 6.0L, if you want the truck to last you, then do it the right way.

:poke: Again, I didnt ask if I should do it or not, that wasnt the question.
 

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