the motor.....

Erikclaw · Jul 30, 2011

Dzchey21 said:
i think you will be fine either way honestly, you can always use the boost controler to fine tune the gate

True, buy I don't want to have too light of a spring and have to run it with out the controler. Would rather have it a little heavier to be able to fine tune it. When I get around someone with the knowledge to do it.

Dzchey21 · Jul 30, 2011

the advatage to running a gate with a light spring is if for any reason you loose air to the gate or the controller the failsafe will be open, and you will have a hard time driving it and not really high back pressure and over speeding the turbo. thats just how i see things

Erikclaw · Jul 30, 2011

Dzchey21 said:
the advatage to running a gate with a light spring is if for any reason you loose air to the gate or the controller the failsafe will be open, and you will have a hard time driving it and not really high back pressure and over speeding the turbo. thats just how i see things

HAHA you are right there brother! I should learn from my mistakes and lean on the side of caution. :morons:. I always need someone to smack my in the head from time to time cause I always want the most out of everything I do, and don't think of the consequences.

Powerstroked162 · Jul 30, 2011

bigrpowr said:
on a side note- the new elite manifolds will be debuting shortly, i cant wait for mine, but i wont put it on until i put a few thousand hard miles on my truck just to make sense of this.

How is the ZZ Fab manifold gonna fit with stock/elite turbo's? Any issues or is it like the one they built you??

Erikclaw · Jul 30, 2011

Powerstroked162 said:
How is the ZZ Fab manifold gonna fit with stock/elite turbo's? Any issues or is it like the one they built you??

I have a feeling the new manifold is notthing like the ZZ Fab one. Like you said, it won't fit any of the turbo options.

bigrpowr · Jul 31, 2011

Powerstroked162 said:
How is the ZZ Fab manifold gonna fit with stock/elite turbo's? Any issues or is it like the one they built you??

Wouldn't you and your dad like to know. I'm a bit confused why you are in this thread.

Powerstroked162 · Jul 31, 2011

bigrpowr said:
Wouldn't you and your dad like to know. I'm a bit confused why you are in this thread.

Wow. Simply wow! Nice conspiracy theory :doh:

Austin · Jul 31, 2011

What about 150's with Empires heads and elites intake? Would the extra air take care of the poor atomization?

mike@haller's · Jul 31, 2011

Erikclaw said:
So I may be better off with the 1.0 bar springs? Hope Mike H chimes in cause I don't want to be changing these things out once they get in. LOL
I still have lots of time probably, my truck hasn't been touched yet. Stopped by yesterday and they are catching up on all the work they had stacked up. There were around seven trucks in their shop when mine was towed there tues. Funny how a shop in a rinky dink town does soo much business.

What I found is the gate with a 1.0 bar springs in the gate the truck dynos great and will "spike" the dyno better for a bigger number. Since the gate is being pushed open by BP in a linear style. With 1.2 bar springs in the gate makes for the best driveability and definately feels the strongest on the street (after alot of fine tuning of the controller). But it is really hard to dyno a big number with. The controller reacts almost to fast and ends up dumping to much drive to fast and falls under the chargers on the dyno it seems.
If you only have a manual controller I would just ditch it and run the 1.0 springs with no controller. Just leave the hoses on the gate routed to where you can get to them in case you ever need to hook up the controller.

Erikclaw · Jul 31, 2011

97singlecab said:
What I found is the gate with a 1.0 bar springs in the gate the truck dynos great and will "spike" the dyno better for a bigger number. Since the gate is being pushed open by BP in a linear style. With 1.2 bar springs in the gate makes for the best driveability and definately feels the strongest on the street (after alot of fine tuning of the controller). But it is really hard to dyno a big number with. The controller reacts almost to fast and ends up dumping to much drive to fast and falls under the chargers on the dyno it seems.
If you only have a manual controller I would just ditch it and run the 1.0 springs with no controller. Just leave the hoses on the gate routed to where you can get to them in case you ever need to hook up the controller.

Thanks Mike, will give it a try.

Erikclaw · Jul 31, 2011

So then if I dial the LP turbo to produce around 23-25 I should be set with the 1 bar spring. Would setting the LP to produce more boost be detrimental as in producing more bp and causing the gate to open up sooner and not letting the hp produce a higher boost reading and lowering overall horsepower?

bigrpowr · Aug 1, 2011

heres the worst piston, 2 others had cracks. mind you this motor had II pump and 110's before i got it. im 99.9% sure this motor was hurt before i got it.

PTSUPERD · Aug 1, 2011

Dammit.

jdgleason · Aug 1, 2011

Ouch. Well.... she played her heart out lol. RIP

powerstrokedub · Aug 2, 2011

Is it possible that they all cracked at the exact same time or is it more likely that they each cracked at different points and then there was finally a sign that there was a serious issue?

bigrpowr · Aug 2, 2011

powerstrokedub said:
Is it possible that they all cracked at the exact same time or is it more likely that they each cracked at different points and then there was finally a sign that there was a serious issue?

looks like a few, all on the same side had issues. the #8 had the hole in it, then 6 and 2 had cracks, that extended outside the bowl but very fine cracks. #8 did the deal in no doubt. this motor smoked white on fire up since i got it, but i thought it was from the fuel distribution block, the way my motor with 60's and the elite pump fired white on startup. i never smelled the smoke from the ipe at startup because i didnt think this was an issue. like i said, im betting this motor was hurt from the get go. tadd said he hammered it pretty good for a while, but never saw any signs of an issue. i highly doubt he would put a motor in my truck that he thought would be an issue. e doesnt like dealing with me when im pissed.

powr2stroke · Aug 2, 2011

hows the motor swap coming along ?

powerstrokedub · Aug 2, 2011

bigrpowr said:
looks like a few, all on the same side had issues. the #8 had the hole in it, then 6 and 2 had cracks, that extended outside the bowl but very fine cracks. #8 did the deal in no doubt. this motor smoked white on fire up since i got it, but i thought it was from the fuel distribution block, the way my motor with 60's and the elite pump fired white on startup. i never smelled the smoke from the ipe at startup because i didnt think this was an issue. like i said, im betting this motor was hurt from the get go. tadd said he hammered it pretty good for a while, but never saw any signs of an issue. i highly doubt he would put a motor in my truck that he thought would be an issue. e doesnt like dealing with me when im pissed.

LOL

That makes the most logical sense, I can see where you wouldn't express concern seeing that your prior motor had similar characteristics. Thanks.

bigrpowr · Aug 2, 2011

powr2stroke said:
hows the motor swap coming along ?

the motor is already done. tadd is sending me another hp turbo just in case there is an issue with the seals, even though we both doubt there is. as well i had the comp housings polished and the turbo crossover pipe chromed so i can be just like you. also got a 1.0 housing so i could see the spoolup difference for myself.