Time for more air... 71mm vgt & 86mm S510

Dzchey21 · Jul 10, 2011

I would think that you are probably going to blow seals and have oil running out of the exhaust IF there is indeed a problem, i am still not sure on the oil level thing, i think it would act like a sight glass on a hyd tank and the oil level in the drain hose would level with the oil in the pan, but i can't really speak from experience on it.

6.0dirtworker · Jul 10, 2011

It makes sense though, good call.

Dzchey21 · Jul 11, 2011

Dont hold me too it, just how i see it.

PTSUPERD · Jul 11, 2011

Dzchey21 said:
Thanks, im not going to predict anything or expect anything, just going to hope that my research and selection of parts works well, i think it will but if it doesnt i wont be too dissapointed.

Its big for sure pictures dont really do turbos this size justice at all...

Fo sho still working on the spell thing for you, dont have any answers yet

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thanks for all the support guys im feeling pretty positive about this, got a ton of work ahead of me, not only on the turbos but some other things the truck has been needed some attention, going to try and slam it all out at once, hopefully its ready for truckfest so i can lay some decent numbers down on the dyno

Got faith in you bro. Its gonna be a mean bitch.

HD F250 · Jul 11, 2011

Holy Chit Batman....I can't wait to see how this project turns out! Good luck and I hope it turns out just like you have planned it. Nothing better than doing research and then being happy with your labor and investment

cfdeng7 · Jul 11, 2011

I agree that drain tube should act like a sightglass and be level with the oil level in the pan. I can't find a reason it wouldn't. Looks good can't wait to see what she does

Charles · Jul 11, 2011

Looks like you're having fun. I like your style.

One thing, if you do in fact V-band the compressor outlet, make sure you've got good movement allotment in that CAC tube if it's running to the body/chassis or anywhere not mounted to the same thing as the charger or the V-band can sometimes allow the CAC tube force the housing into the wheel.

If you're running from first, straight to the second stage and they're both mounted to the engine, then nevermind. But if you're hittting a water/air or something on the body or anything like that, make sure there's a "hump" hose or a long section of coupling or something to let it move without pulling on the housing.

Regardless, looks like fun man, nice job.

Hotrodtractor · Jul 11, 2011

You can tie in an oil drain for a turbo below the oil level in the pan and be OK - the issue is that there needs to be room for the oil to drain away from the turbo and drain well. On the Dmaxes that I have been around with compounds everyone ties into the top of the upper casting for the oil pan - which is below the top of the oil - it works well when you drill and tap the hole as the oil coming out flushes the chips away and keeps them from getting into the motor.

Dzchey21 · Jul 11, 2011

Thanks for the help everyone. Charles I'm not cooling between. Stages yet and the Turbo will be mounted with the engine. But thanks for the heads up.

Thanks Jason ill try something like that on mine.
I'm thinking the drain hose is going to be about 3 feet long so I think there will be enough room. Also my drain is going to be 3/4 inch hose. Any reason to go bigger than that?

Hotrodtractor · Jul 11, 2011

Dzchey21 said:
Thanks for the help everyone. Charles I'm not cooling between. Stages yet and the Turbo will be mounted with the engine. But thanks for the heads up.

Thanks Jason ill try something like that on mine.
I'm thinking the drain hose is going to be about 3 feet long so I think there will be enough room. Also my drain is going to be 3/4 inch hose. Any reason to go bigger than that?

I think 3/4 hose that long would be more than sufficient for the task at hand.

CAT35niner · Jul 11, 2011

Sounds like should work out fine then. i was always afraid to drill into a oil pan.

Dzchey21 · Jul 11, 2011

I'm not sure what to.do about drilling the pan. I have see. Cummings guys basically take a punch and drive it into the pan and then tap the hole and thread in a fitting. I would feel better if it was welded. So I'm gunna try and weld it in

jdgleason · Jul 11, 2011

I would be real weary of welding the pan with as thin as it is... I would almost rather drill it, punch it, and thread in a fitting and seal it well, and use a braided hose for a drain. Idk maybe if you find somethin real similar to the construction of the pan to use as a drain it could work, but im probably not a good enough welder to do it perfect lol

Craig@MFI · Jul 11, 2011

You'll be fine welding to the pan we have done it a few times

bigrpowr · Jul 12, 2011

i believe welding the pan is pretty standard. i have heard of punching but that seems a bit more risky.

Erikclaw · Jul 12, 2011

Punching it sounds like the iffy way to do it. Would seem lucky to make a perfectly round hole to tap into. I think welding would be better. Find some metal similar if you can and practice on it if not sure of yourself.

Charles · Jul 12, 2011

If you can get the pan off, weld it, no questions.

I've got two -12 bungs welded to my pan that the guys at Swamps welded in for me when the engine went together. One on the driver's and one passenger's. Driver's just has a cap on it.

If you've got the pan off, might throw in an extra bung for future use.

Dzchey21 · Jul 12, 2011

I'm pretty sure the engine has to.come out to take the pan off so I probably am not going to do that. I think if I take the tire off I can tig weld the bung into the pan. If there isn't enough room I think the front of the pan has more room to weld with the fan out