Tuning 101 - Thread Merged with Injector Posts

[ja_cain]

Icing on my 6 day Influenza A cake that has kept me from working on my Generator house where my 35kw diesel generator is sitting on a 400 gal diesel tank under a tarp right now is the fact that we lost power about an hour ago...

Just gets better and better eh?

LOL


Make lemonade right.




On Edit:

Hey, power's back. Only a little over an hour this time. With all the rain it'll be a miracle if we don't lose it again.

I hate loosing power out here. We are usually the last people to get it restored when there are major outages.

Though not as awesome as your 35kw genny, it's much better than the gas units I've had in the past.

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[N2GN2]

I missed the deal on the gas/propane unit at Costco for $650

 

[Charles]

The generator I've had, and that I will be on if any serious outage happens before the cummins in online in my 15kw PTO generator. TPH mounted frame with wheels to roll it out of the barn to the tractor. I have my shop setup so I can feed from there or there's a manual transfer switch right at the service entrance at the house.

It's only let me down once, and that was a blown seal that let all the gear oil out. Lost a bearing. I tore it down and replaced the bearing, disassembled the entire head and tightened the gearbox plate back up from inside the generator head and reassembled everything. Still runs like a top. It's a brushless model. 30kw surge.

The one I have in the works now will run the whole house. It was load tested for 4 hours at 152 amps, so she'll get the job done. It has a surge capacity over 90kw IIRC. Designed for starting 3 phase motors.

Should run for over a week on the tank I have under it.


People take power for granted. But it can become super important, super quick when all the roads are down along with the power and it's in the 20's or worse. You'll freeze to death. Nevermind destroying all the plumbing in your house.

 

[ja_cain]

The generator I've had, and that I will be on if any serious outage happens before the cummins in online in my 15kw PTO generator. TPH mounted frame with wheels to roll it out of the barn to the tractor. I have my shop setup so I can feed from there or there's a manual transfer switch right at the service entrance at the house.

It's only let me down once, and that was a blown seal that let all the gear oil out. Lost a bearing. I tore it down and replaced the bearing, disassembled the entire head and tightened the gearbox plate back up from inside the generator head and reassembled everything. Still runs like a top. It's a brushless model. 30kw surge.

The one I have in the works now will run the whole house. It was load tested for 4 hours at 152 amps, so she'll get the job done. It has a surge capacity over 90kw IIRC. Designed for starting 3 phase motors.

Should run for over a week on the tank I have under it.


People take power for granted. But it can become super important, super quick when all the roads are down along with the power and it's in the 20's or worse. You'll freeze to death. Nevermind destroying all the plumbing in your house.

What model is your 15kw? That's crazy that it's surge is double the rated continous output. Mine is 12kw which should be OK to run both furnaces and everything else. Not sure how she'll do once I switch one of the furnaces to a hp, but it still might be OK as long as I lock out the strips.

*Edit*

The Winco gennies look pretty good. Designed for starting motors and such. I would love to have something that would run the house and shop.

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[ja_cain]

Charles, what do you think would be a good turbo to match up with your AEB tuning on a zf-6 truck? I know you said that you were surging your 38r with a good load even with the larger exhaust housing. I really want to put together an awesome tow truck, but want to buy once and cry once (if you know what I mean).

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[Charles]

Charles, what do you think would be a good turbo to match up with your AEB tuning on a zf-6 truck? I know you said that you were surging your 38r with a good load even with the larger exhaust housing. I really want to put together an awesome tow truck, but want to buy once and cry once (if you know what I mean).

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38R really can't be beat. I'm sure one of the compressor wheels available now would cure the surge. If not, another stage of compression would do the trick, lol.

 

[TyCorr]

38R really can't be beat. I'm sure one of the compressor wheels available now would cure the surge. If not, another stage of compression would do the trick, lol.

Are you done with that now? Just a 38r and some fuel is enough for a worktruck?

 

[ja_cain]

38R really can't be beat. I'm sure one of the compressor wheels available now would cure the surge. If not, another stage of compression would do the trick, lol.

I just knew you were going to mention compounds. Lol! 38r would be so much easier/cheaper. Are you planning on adding a second stage with this new truck once you throw the bts in?

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[N2GN2]

Charles, did you see my question about your icp search after load?

 

[Charles]

I just knew you were going to mention compounds. Lol! 38r would be so much easier/cheaper. Are you planning on adding a second stage with this new truck once you throw the bts in?

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Not planning, I do however realize that I will never be happy with anything but a 38R and a GT55 with a GT47 compressor.

I have given considerable thought to running the exhaust out the front of the engine and close-coupling the turbos with no exhaust running over the engine. Would leave massive working room plus room for one extra large cylindrical intake manifold with runners to each cylinder.

For now I have massive amounts of sh*t to do, so if I could just leave this trans alone and cut the power to keep it happy I would. My mistake was accidentally writing way too much power into the truck to begin with. Your body won't let it go once it has it. You can't be ignorant anymore.

I'm hoping I can leave the 38R alone and tune the PMR into a safe spot with my BTS and just rock out like that. The truck scoots just fine right now. Obviously it doesn't pull like I remember these injectors pulling, but I don't have the time in my day right now for that level of maintenance.

 

[Charles]

Charles, did you see my question about your icp search after load?

The only time my ICP does anything but sit rock solid is on a cold start, for the reason of the ICP map being too steep around idle rpm. When it cranks on a cold start the engine rpm is a bit high and that puts it on a steep part of the map.

When I lift from a load the truck just snags idle. If I pull the truck out of drive it floats up and lands on idle. Drop it back in drive and it really snags it quick, like an ag gov. It has no real drop going in gear at all, as I like.

I could be missing your question though. Was any of that your question?

 

[cleatus12r]

So what do you think? Look retarded or what? Think an AEB truck will stroll down the road on that one or what?

Even though it really doesn't matter what I think, I can't look at it yet anyway since I'm not anywhere near my tuning laptops for the next two days. I will let you know though.

 

[Charles]

Are you done with that now? Just a 38r and some fuel is enough for a worktruck?

For practicality..... yes.

As for what would be nice.... that has no real end. It only reaches steady-state between time spent under a truck with about 4 extensions in one hand and bellhousing bolts in the other and money spent on a truck annually vs the fun received.

How often do you like pulling transmissions?

LOL

 

[N2GN2]

Charles, I'm referencing the idle on your axle wrap video @1:00 https://youtu.be/GxkyD0z9zjY

 

[Charles]

Charles, I'm referencing the idle on your axle wrap video @1:00 https://youtu.be/GxkyD0z9zjY

lol, good times, haha. Funny story, true story, that was actually on 200% NOZZLES!!!

As to your question, the harshness of the engine is due to running higher than average ICP at low MFD values in order to make the truck super crisp and have lots of balls all the time. At that point in my life a super smooth idle was not on my radar, so when the truck has more zip at higher pressure, I run higher pressure.

Secondly, it's not actually at idle at that point in the video, the converter is overspeeding the engine, making the scenario worst-case for the engine to be smooth, since the required fuel is super, super low. Not a task that high ICP and a larger nozzle were meant for. Listen to the truck at the beginning of the video. That is idle, and while at this point in my life I would be thinking at ease soldier.... at that time, the higher ICP didn't bother me. Still, it wasn't an exceptionally rough idle. It was actually pretty uniform still.

Lastly, all of the above sounds about 4 times worse in that video than real life, because the microphone was under the truck, and about maybe a foot or two from the exhaust. If you go stand near the tailpipe, most any diesel is going to sound a bit harsh.

The primary reason for the "choppiness" however, is elevated low-load ICP to answer your question .

 

[N2GN2]

So you elevated lcp with low mfd to keep it snappy at the start rather then a gradual increase of icp to mfd?

 

[Charles]

So you elevated lcp with low mfd to keep it snappy at the start rather then a gradual increase of icp to mfd?

It was just the bottom of the ICP map had a "floor" that was higher than you would otherwise have run on that injector for a smoother idle. Probably like 750 to 900 if I had to guess.

The truck I drive now is just as snappy, I just didn't care then.

 

[N2GN2]

My brother in laws auto does that with stage 1s and tunes. IIRC you can watch the icp drop and bounce around before recovering and it sounds exactly like that video.

 

[JD3020]

Throwing this out there for some discussion. My truck has had one main problem ever since i put the 250/200%'s in and started tuning it. If i'm really on the throttle putting the fuel to it in a condition where the converter is not locked, as soon as i take my foot out of the throttle the truck dies. For example, couple weeks ago i was using my OBS to pull a Chevy and a load of boulders(probably 6-7 tons) up a muddy hill. Had my truck screaming pretty good trying to make it, but couldn't. Every single time i'd get to the top of the hill and lost momentum, i'd get out of the throttle and the truck would die. It also does it on the street if i really mash the throttle then have to lift off quick, before it locks the converter. Sometimes it will die, other times it will hesitate and romp for a couple seconds before it catches itsself and goes back to idle. Doesn't matter if its a stock tune, or one of my own. Also changed from a 15* to a 17* pump.


Haven't touched Minotaur in well over a year so no clue what any of my values are at this point. Just looking for some ideas on where to start so i can try and figure it out.

 

[79jasper]

My zf5 obs does it sometimes also. Did it before and after the hydra. So I know it's not related to the chip.
I can replicate it fairly easy.
Has never actually died though.

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