Tuning 101 - Thread Merged with Injector Posts

[TyCorr]

I should add..... I HIGHLY recommend getting the ICP vs RPM FLAT! Only down near idle should this have to curve a little to accommodate idle icp without having the truck surge away as you come off idle. Keep the ICP as flat as possible as you climb in rpm and handle the acceleration vs pedal in the MFD TABLE ONLY!

This is MY opinion. It works flawlessly fwiw...

Look at some of the files I've posted and notice how the ICP table is very flat left to right (vs rpm) basically anywhere off idle, and how it really only varies with pedal.

Driving a truck that runs away on ICP as your rpm climbs, requiring that you lift a little and a little more as the rpm climbs, then stab back on the pedal on a shift makes me desire a can of gas and a match...

Steep ICP tables that ramp up as rpm climb are a common culprit. This also makes the truck jittery on cruise whenever the rpm is up because even though the demand is low.... the ICP is high just because rpm is high.... see the problem???

Anyway.... just wanted to add that.

I can relate. I got new tunes and it seems to be going bonkers above 2krpm....running away...then after it shifts it feels like you're taking off on a 10 speed in road gear. And then people are surprised when exhaust gas temperatures surge after a shift. If the truck shifts from 3rd to od and i need to acquire more speed. Lets say 15mph. I can literally go from 650° to 11 or 1200 making up that difference.

Is there an actual tuning value that is directly related to boost? In other words it seems to be making too little cruising and if you get a bit under it you can make a lot of heat fast trying to bring it back into the right zip code. Im half tempted to video it just to see a little wtf out of it. I havent had the extra $$$ lying around to getva laptop, minotaur, and whatever else I need to tune but its coming. I cant fet happy with even "good" tunes.

I enjoy music and i refuse to have an eq anymore because i cant ***king leave it alone. Nor can I just be happy with audio or video settings on a tv during a movie. "Mayhe just a tad less contrast until the black is dark and then Ill pull the brightness up a bit to make the other colors seem bright again". I hope tuning isnt like that because if so its going to make me mental. Pissin nonstop with things.

 

[Charles]

I can relate. I got new tunes and it seems to be going bonkers above 2krpm....running away...then after it shifts it feels like you're taking off on a 10 speed in road gear. And then people are surprised when exhaust gas temperatures surge after a shift. If the truck shifts from 3rd to od and i need to acquire more speed. Lets say 15mph. I can literally go from 650° to 11 or 1200 making up that difference.

Is there an actual tuning value that is directly related to boost? In other words it seems to be making too little cruising and if you get a bit under it you can make a lot of heat fast trying to bring it back into the right zip code. Im half tempted to video it just to see a little wtf out of it. I havent had the extra $$$ lying around to getva laptop, minotaur, and whatever else I need to tune but its coming. I cant fet happy with even "good" tunes.

I enjoy music and i refuse to have an eq anymore because i cant ***king leave it alone. Nor can I just be happy with audio or video settings on a tv during a movie. "Mayhe just a tad less contrast until the black is dark and then Ill pull the brightness up a bit to make the other colors seem bright again". I hope tuning isnt like that because if so its going to make me mental. Pissin nonstop with things.

There is boost vs MFD, but that would not make the truck hot, just the opposite, it's like pulling your foot off the pedal.

What makes the truck hot is a pw to icp ratio that's too high.

 

[DZL JIM]

Charles,
Awesome description. I can barely understand what you are saying, yet I am confident I will get it as I muddle my way through this. I have decided that 8 years is long enough to put this off and I just need to dive in and start tuning.

BTW...This is in my 7.3 Altered drag car. I don't care about idle quality. I don't care about drivability. I don't care about cold starts, etc.
I need light throttle to spool up, then it's hammer down. No in between.


To start anyway, then I can work on those specifics.

 

[Charles]

Charles,
Awesome description. I can barely understand what you are saying, yet I am confident I will get it as I muddle my way through this. I have decided that 8 years is long enough to put this off and I just need to dive in and start tuning.

BTW...This is in my 7.3 Altered drag car. I don't care about idle quality. I don't care about drivability. I don't care about cold starts, etc.
I need light throttle to spool up, then it's hammer down. No in between.


To start anyway, then I can work on those specifics.

The crazy thing is that in my experience, the better all those points are refined, the more power it will make and the faster it will go. Smooth transistions feed fuel into the cylinder at a rate that it will burn. A harsh ramp for instance will put the fire out for a second. On the DJ this shows up as reduced boost on a pull and lower power.

Look how dead smooth Scheid's rail idles and runs. No romping, no touchy pedal, hell even seconds after a 200+mph pull that thing is just sitting and purring like a kitten.

It all seems to be connected. When we see rough running engines that then come up on power, I wonder if they wouldn't make even more power and come up quicker if time had been available and spent on refinement.


I would find a backroad and drive around until it has good power off boost and pulls hard without smoke. Then you will be in the wheelhouse for snappy throttle response and can feed as much pw as you want on top of that with boost.

 

[DZL JIM]

Makes sense. I know it's all related, and like you stated a while ago, find a problem and fix it, and before you know it you're learning what to do.
I have a problem that I want to fix, and I will start adjusting things to make it run better overall in the end.

 

[DZL JIM]

....Look at some of the files I've posted and notice how the ICP table is very flat left to right (vs rpm) basically anywhere off idle, and how it really only varies with pedal...

You wouldn't happen to know roughly what post #'s those files would be at would you? Or date of post, or ?

 

[Charles]

You wouldn't happen to know roughly what post #'s those files would be at would you? Or date of post, or ?

 

[superpsd]

If you hit F6 while in a map it takes you to the table view. With this view you can see the two horizontal axis designations labels. Such as RPM vs EOT and such. It helps when your starting out as the maps do not have labels on the axis just the scaling numbers. If you hit F1 you go to the comments page that has a small description of what said map does (not every map has a comment).

 

[superpsd]

Hit F9 and you get to see two maps overlaid. Which helps to compare tunes. Main PW map below with a stock calibration in red and the one in black that is the current tune I am still tweeking.

 

[lincolnlocker]

holy *** my head is going to explode

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[DZL JIM]

Charles,
I can't read that map. What is it, ICP?
And what are the parameters across the bottom left and bottom right?
My ICP map doesn't look like that at all, trying to relate....

Edited, looks like ICP map not PW.

 

[Charles]

Charles,
I can't read that map. What is it, ICP?
And what are the parameters across the bottom left and bottom right?
My ICP map doesn't look like that at all, trying to relate....

Edited, looks like ICP map not PW.

It is ICP. I thought you were asking about the ICP map after I said make sure it's flat as rpm climbs to keep the truck "linear" feeling instead of it "running away" as rpm climbs.

You can look at everything if you open the actual tuning file. I don't know where in this thread they are. Is there anything on the site that just shows attachments for a thread?

Any moderator help? Is there a way for a person to just peruse all attachments thread by thread?

 

[DZL JIM]

I am interested in any and all maps that you have posted. It will give me an idea on what to look at for changes vs what I have. My performance tune's maps look identical to stock maps just shifted in the graph. Your stuff is --nothing-- like the performance tunes I have and I want to learn why.

 

[Charles]

Quoting a post with an attachment does not bring the attachment. Hopefully the below link will prompt you to save the file. I uploaded this a while back, I think it may have been the last one I uploaded. It will suffice for something to look at. PCM is AEB. I do not recall the weird number the template is called. Basically 02 Manual...


http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43775&d=1464274514

 

[DZL JIM]

I appreciate the effort, but it says "no known program will open this file."

 

[79jasper]

Mine opened it on my phone. Lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[HBDELUX]

I tried to open it using my phone didn't work.

 

[Charles]

I appreciate the effort, but it says "no known program will open this file."

Obviously you would have to open it with your tuning software.

I've uploaded multiple files in this thread. I think that one was on page 87.



On Edit: There's nothing wrong with that one. It opens fine on my laptop and I made that link on my desktop at my office, so it is a good link. Save it to your desktop or wherever you like on your computer as opposed to opening it. Tell windows to STFU, it doesn't have any idea what to do with a Binary file.

Then open your minotaur software then File.... New Project.... then File.... Load Calibration.... then select that .bin file wherever you saved it. Then in minotaur go right back to File.... then Load Definition.... select the TOAA5 Definition if you own one from Bill. That is an "AEB" PCM for an 02 Manual truck.

My files are 224kb in size, the whole enchilada. So if Bill has your templates set up for the 5xkb size, then you will have to use a hex editor, or have someone do it for you to carve out the portion you need. I no longer have one on this laptop, although if it was required, I could download one and do it for you.

Right click on one of the calibrations you've already been working with, select properties and see what size it is. If it's 224kb, then you're all set. If it's 50 something, let me know and either I or someone else can carve out the "DAT" portion for you.

 

[79jasper]

Oops. Misspoke.
File downloaded to my phone when I click the link.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[DZL JIM]

Oh, I thought it was just a pic of the map, didn't realize it was the tune file. I'll give it a try this week when I'm back at my computer.