Tuning 101 - Thread Merged with Injector Posts

Charles

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Speaking of learning, there's a guy, I can't remember his name or screen name to save my life, but has a red truck IIRC, in a really cold climate with a largish set of injectors doing his own tuning that had them nailed for cold weather starting. I would like to pick your brain on timing, pressure and such for cold weather cranking.

It wasn't Mike-o. I wanna say he was maybe in Canada?

Anybody have any idea?
 

Strokersace

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No it was Dave something or other from Alaska. He 1st had a maroon ccsb. Then switched his setup into a red rclb. Big injectors and turbos. Had that thing dialed in!!! I haven't seen him on the boards in quite a while.
 

Charles

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Dave is the correct answer.

I need to talk to that guy about cold weather...


Found it. My memory is photographic, so all I had in memory was this...

avatar672_1.gif


Then when you wrote Dave I could make out the part above it as 901, but turns out it was 907 Dave.

Dude, you still kickin? I would like to know some tips on cold weather and cold engine tuning.
 
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Vader's Fury

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Looks like he hasn't been around in almost 2 years.

Miss talking to him. He knew his ****.

V-Ref used to talk to him a bit I believe. Maybe he has heard from him lately?
 

psduser1

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Good to read.
How is the engine you're working with for wear, i.e. blowby?
I've got a set of 3/2s, and I'd like to drop them in my worn out junk, just not sure where that'll push the bottom end on my 00. Its pretty loose, lol.
Curious about your fuel pressure, as well.
 

ja_cain

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I have an 02 crew cab now and wanted to update this thread since this truck is damn near stock and needed a set of injectors to replace the tired set that came in it when I bought it.

This truck is simply my Daily driver that took over for my red truck when I needed two more doors to house a couple car seats in the back that my regular cab could not support. The injectors that came in this truck would not start on a cold day, just flat worn out injectors.

So....

When I replaced them who thinks I went with an AD or something with a tiny little nozze?

I took my old 300's and put a 200 EDM on them. The truck had some crap intake and a 4" downpipe, otherwise it was 100% stock. Since I had a 38R handy I threw it on when I did the injectors. The 38R has the 1.15 non-gated housing.

The truck is super zippy. I forgot how easy it is for a stock compression truck to zip around. I've pushed into the stock trans as far as I can basically. No 30% truck on planet earth would touch it. The 30% truck would be rolling massive coal and losing ground while this truck was leaving out perfectly clean.

I have no gauges, don't need any. I have no fuel pump changes, no oil system changes, nothing. The air filter is as it came, full of dirt, bugs and pinestraw needles. Doesn't matter.

If I had a stock charger I would simply lower the pw a bit to keep it under 25lbs on the top end.

When it comes to tuning it was dead on. I messed around with the auto pcm at first until I realized the surging was because it was not connected to the trans anymore. When I switched to the AEB man trans pcm I sh*t you not, the FIRST program I wrote, and bare in mind this is from DEAD SCRATCH because I did not even have a single file for that cache code, so this includes shaping all the scalers and working through all the parameters from SCRATCH..... regardless, it went down the road GREAT! ZERO, I mean ZEEEEEERO smoke. Flat to the floor 1500rpm kind of zero smoke. And it was WAAAAAAAY too strong. It's not like it was a limp noodle program, this thing was trying to break the trans like right now. On wet roads I had no traction at any speed up to around 100 or so where I gave up. That's on a 35" nitto. So it was making power, too much. But ZERO smoke.

It's not rocket science. I maxed the pw at ~2.2, ran 3000 psi oil and had a nice MFD table that was smooth and linear. I have since dropped the max pw to around 2 IIRC so I don't break the trans. I also added in the little bs like killing the overboost and stuff so you don't need to trick the MAP sensor.

Anyway, point being, I never even sat in the truck and wrote a file that went down the street like a boss right out of the gate.

Anybody that has problems with a 200 do me a favor and check your pulsewidth. Driving around at part throttle in OD lets say, and lugging down, you need to be like 1.x, like 1.2, 1.4 or so.

I don't know what's happening for you all that seem to struggle with a larger nozzle, but pw is all I can think of for you to check, because I can't MAKE a 200 not work!!!

Best....... nozzle....... ever......



On Edit:

Truck seriously just has an intake, exhaust, 38R and 300/200's. Trans has a PCS simply because the Ford PCM is a joke for the auto. Screw oil, fuel lines, filters, pumps and all bs. Not needed.

Life's a lot simpler than we often make it. You could take a bone stock truck and add absolutely nothing but the 300/200's and zip around town all day long with 20,000lbs behind you smoke free, leaving most people with everything known to man under the hood in your dust because they can't seem to control one value.... pulsewidth....
You sound just like Ty. Lol! Awesome thread resurrection, by the way! Makes me want to buy Minotaur and start messing around with it. What is your pcm code?

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lincolnlocker

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You sound just like Ty. Lol! Awesome thread resurrection, by the way! Makes me want to buy Minotaur and start messing around with it. What is your pcm code?

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its the other way around.. ty sounds like charles cuz he has read everything that charles has posts about.... it is a wonderful thing to have read his info over the years..

live life full throttle
 

907DAVE

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Wow its been awhile, thanks for the kind words! Got a message from Tim today to give this tread a peek, next thing I see is Charles talking tuning/ injectors and timing ... I had to smile. Glad to see the "old timers" still going at it!
 

ja_cain

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its the other way around.. ty sounds like charles cuz he has read everything that charles has posts about.... it is a wonderful thing to have read his info over the years..

live life full throttle
You are absolutely right! That's how I should have stated the similarities. It is a real treat reading posts like this. Definitely out of the box thinking and counter to a lot of what you read. Would love to see someone collect data towing heavy with the usual recommended injectors vs hybrids with 200% nozzles.

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V-Ref

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Wow its been awhile, thanks for the kind words! Got a message from Tim today to give this tread a peek, next thing I see is Charles talking tuning/ injectors and timing ... I had to smile. Glad to see the "old timers" still going at it!
Great to see Dave in here again! Guys...This guy is truly one of the great 7.3 minds out there! Make sure you all give him a warm welcome back when he posts!
 

lincolnlocker

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Wow its been awhile, thanks for the kind words! Got a message from Tim today to give this tread a peek, next thing I see is Charles talking tuning/ injectors and timing ... I had to smile. Glad to see the "old timers" still going at it!
holy chit!!! you're alive too! welcome back sir!!!

live life full throttle
 

psduser1

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You are absolutely right! That's how I should have stated the similarities. It is a real treat reading posts like this. Definitely out of the box thinking and counter to a lot of what you read. Would love to see someone collect data towing heavy with the usual recommended injectors vs hybrids with 200% nozzles.

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Kinda what I'm after...
 

ja_cain

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If you have seen Charles' youtube videos, and heard him talk...you read his post like you hear him saying it..and some of it is f'n hilarious.
I have seen a few of his vids, but not any where I remember him talking.

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Charles

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Wow its been awhile, thanks for the kind words! Got a message from Tim today to give this tread a peek, next thing I see is Charles talking tuning/ injectors and timing ... I had to smile. Glad to see the "old timers" still going at it!

I need to know anything you could tell me about cold weather timing, pressures and such and general cold weather tuning. I never cared before, but I would like to iron out that side of my programs and guys like you have already been there and done that.

You can't exactly fog out the lady in the minivan next to you at the daycare on a regular basis and feel good about it, lol.
 

Charles

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You are absolutely right! That's how I should have stated the similarities. It is a real treat reading posts like this. Definitely out of the box thinking and counter to a lot of what you read. Would love to see someone collect data towing heavy with the usual recommended injectors vs hybrids with 200% nozzles.

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I can tell you right now that any hybrid with a 200 will tow your driveline into oblivion.

Engine wouldn't need to exceed probably 1150 degrees to see your trans, u-joints and rear ring and pinion in hell.

I've towed steady state at as much as 50lbs of boost constant with 400/400's. That required a fair bit of water, but the EGT's were under or right at 1200. 4R100 stayed okay, diff fluid with mag-hytec was pretty unhappy afterward and rear u-joint was toast after the trunion pushed a couple needles down into the cap.

In my 550 even with only 100% nozzles I totally melted down a ZF6 and wiped out the carrier bearings in the dana 110 I think it is. I was able to hand file the ring gear back into shape and simply replace the carrier bearings, but the trans was toast. EGT never exceeded 1250.

I melted another ZF6 in my red truck before I went to the 4R100.

EGT is a non-issue. Everything south of the flywheel is...
 

PABowhunter

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This makes me want to learn how to tune. I love when guys with all this experience share what they have done. I try to learn a little more each time.

This also solidifies my desire for 200% nozzles. I'm planning on getting them this winter. Can't wait.
 

ja_cain

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I can tell you right now that any hybrid with a 200 will tow your driveline into oblivion.

Engine wouldn't need to exceed probably 1150 degrees to see your trans, u-joints and rear ring and pinion in hell.

I've towed steady state at as much as 50lbs of boost constant with 400/400's. That required a fair bit of water, but the EGT's were under or right at 1200. 4R100 stayed okay, diff fluid with mag-hytec was pretty unhappy afterward and rear u-joint was toast after the trunion pushed a couple needles down into the cap.

In my 550 even with only 100% nozzles I totally melted down a ZF6 and wiped out the carrier bearings in the dana 110 I think it is. I was able to hand file the ring gear back into shape and simply replace the carrier bearings, but the trans was toast. EGT never exceeded 1250.

I melted another ZF6 in my red truck before I went to the 4R100.

EGT is a non-issue. Everything south of the flywheel is...
Good stuff. Thanks for sharing your experiences. I always love hearing about pushing these trucks to the edge of the envelope and beyond. You seem to always come through with some good info.

Btw, PCS is actually here in Richmond (Ashland). My buddy at Afton uses their hardware all the time to manipulate the shift characteristics of their test rigs. They try to replicate the behavior they see on high milage transmission for testing new fluids. He told me the owner has been very helpful over they years with different platforms. I'd definitely like to fool around with one.

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ja_cain

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Charles,

You said you were running the 200% in an 02. Is that a pmr block in there (somehow I don't think so). Sorry if I missed that info in some other thread. I have not been able to follow much of anything lately.

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