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Lamont_24

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deal on what?

live life full throttle

On the drivetrain swap, I was going to trade my friend my engine and tran for his and now that I thought about putting injectors in this truck I told I might not want to do it and he basically said tough chit. But now he's not sure if it has a clutch and flywheel so I'm telling him tough chit. It's turning into a cluster fvck and nothing good ever comes out of those
 

Lamont_24

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Oh I know what exactly what you mean! But he's helped me out with this truck quite a bit so I don't want to be too big of a d*ck lol
 

Lamont_24

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Oh I told him that if it doesn't have a clutch or fly wheel I'm not trading, I'll be spending enough converting my truck to a manual and doing the swap in general
 

TyCorr

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Sounds like you need to beat him over the head with a manhole.cover.

Its your truck. **** that cummins. If you pay someone to rebuild your motor, 5 grand will go quick. Id bet to have one rebuilt with just stock.parts would.be closer to.5. You'd still need injectors, which are 1850for 238&250cc injectors.
 

Lamont_24

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If I rebuild myself or have a guy help me it'd be hopefully below a grand, but I don't know if I need to rebuild it yet, I'm going to look up what fitting I need to use to test compression tomorrow and see if we got it unless anyone knows it off the top of your head haha
 

bad12jr

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Tell him f@$% off. Its your trucks and your motor. If he doesn't like it he isn't your friend. And he go kick rocks.

On the rebuild figure about 500 for machining atleast depending on what needs done. I'd say 4000 total is a good number. Some places will also throw in discounted/ free tuning with an injector purchase.

Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk 2
 

85_305

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of course he does, he doesn't want no 5.9liter paper weight.
 

PA Stroker

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I would do a compression test on yours and go from there. It could have cracked pistons or it could be as simple as just needing a valve or two. I bought a forged rod motor for my truck for $500. It was complete with turbo and all. I tore it down and rebuilt it completely for under $2000 i think is what i came out to. It only had 150k on it and didn't really need it but i did it anyway. Yours might just be something simple to fix. My original motor had 245k and had great compression all the way across, except for the number 1 cylinder with the broke rod lol.
 

1ofakind79

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I would just keep your 7.3. I had a 12V swapped Ford before I bought my 7.3 and I love my 7.3. My 12V had injectors, a modded turbo, intercooler. It was a rotary pump motor. I had the pump ajusted mods to the AFC and a Dennyt Fuel pin. My 7.3 would run circles around that truck on everything but fuel mileage. Thats only because I swapped gears in the 12v truck to 3.55s it sucked with 4.10s. When I tow my egts are cooler the 12V I was constantly lifting because my egts were 12+ as soon as I hooked a trailer to it. My vote is to keep the 7.3. Those NV4500s are noisey too. I had a bunch of issue with my 4500 too. Much glader to be driving a 7.3 & ZF now. :ford:
 

85_305

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^Good summation. My experience exactly. There's just no beating an electronically controlled motor for overall use... period.
 

1ofakind79

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Another thing that I like about my 7.3 is there are parts everywhere for it. If I need a belt or starter most auto parts have that stuff in stock. Well atleast by me they seem to. When I had my 12v I would always have to wait days sometimes a week for simple parts like a belt tentioner, valve cover gaskets etc. There are just more 7.3 parts out there if you need something in a pinch. It seems like all the 12V parts are either horded by 12v guys because they know how hard they are to find or on the internet which is cheap as long as you don't need stuff right away.
 

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