7.3 Turbo talk

Powerstroked162

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Jason, which housing is a better overall for a gt4202. Light tow, alot of empty driving, very rare towing heavy, sled pulling and drag racing getting more and more attention every year. Right now i have a 1.15 with no wastegate.

1.01 and be done. Or even a .98 for that matter
 
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TARM

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Its a big jump from 1.0 to 1.15 compared to 1.15 and 1.25 or 1.3. If its too laggy now then 1.01. Look at a turbine map just to get a rough visual idea. But I would not change a thing until you have a engine that can and is running dialed in tunes qithout a bunch of comprimses as you had. Get at least a forged rod block in there with some of Matts tunes and then decide. If you run a 1.01 I would be getting a wg added if you want to get the most out of it.

In the other thread you ask about engine what to do. You do not have enough funds for a proper build so itill either takea longer time or you would have to make compromises. My suggestion that should work well for ya. Pick up a long or short block. Have the heads or your current one worked and ported for max flow vel and fire ringed. Fill your block 1/2 way and slap it all together. Pick up a second sb to have as backup and for the eventual full build. Run what you have done while you are collecting al the parts and machining funds you need for the full build. Also if the worst happens and you blow the current block you have one sittting there so you will be down for the shortest period.

The above will also fit with your current funnds of $4k. You can pu that second sb cheap if you are not pressed to rush to get it. $500 sb and $1000 for a good lb can be found. The first one may cost a bit more as you likely want it sooner rather than later. But you still should be good for getting the rest done on budget. Then you have your heads and fire rings done and can be moved to whatever block.

Anyway that to me is a good way and likely a best comprise to get you what you want/need. Your back up asap with a more rigid block and heads that flow much better and will stay put without long cure time. You have a backup sitting to cya and for the full build. You will be able to run that 4202 and 200% to full power. Even compounds if you keep the tq limited with fuel and proper wg. Then you can openit full and crank it all up on the built one. This all allows you to grow andenjoy much of it as you get it until you reach your final goal. That with very little extra waste or redundancy.
 

TrailerHauler

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Its a big jump from 1.0 to 1.15 compared to 1.15 and 1.25 or 1.3. If its too laggy now then 1.01. Look at a turbine map just to get a rough visual idea. But I would not change a thing until you have a engine that can and is running dialed in tunes qithout a bunch of comprimses as you had. Get at least a forged rod block in there with some of Matts tunes and then decide. If you run a 1.01 I would be getting a wg added if you want to get the most out of it.

In the other thread you ask about engine what to do. You do not have enough funds for a proper build so itill either takea longer time or you would have to make compromises. My suggestion that should work well for ya. Pick up a long or short block. Have the heads or your current one worked and ported for max flow vel and fire ringed. Fill your block 1/2 way and slap it all together. Pick up a second sb to have as backup and for the eventual full build. Run what you have done while you are collecting al the parts and machining funds you need for the full build. Also if the worst happens and you blow the current block you have one sittting there so you will be down for the shortest period.

The above will also fit with your current funnds of $4k. You can pu that second sb cheap if you are not pressed to rush to get it. $500 sb and $1000 for a good lb can be found. The first one may cost a bit more as you likely want it sooner rather than later. But you still should be good for getting the rest done on budget. Then you have your heads and fire rings done and can be moved to whatever block.

Anyway that to me is a good way and likely a best comprise to get you what you want/need. Your back up asap with a more rigid block and heads that flow much better and will stay put without long cure time. You have a backup sitting to cya and for the full build. You will be able to run that 4202 and 200% to full power. Even compounds if you keep the tq limited with fuel and proper wg. Then you can openit full and crank it all up on the built one. This all allows you to grow andenjoy much of it as you get it until you reach your final goal. That with very little extra waste or redundancy.

Drinking last night Tarm? :poke: I think that last half belonged in another thread unless I'm missing something.
 

truckpullin_75

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What turbo would you guys suggest for 450/400s going into a dedicated puller with an auto? Most of the classes around here still use the old 2.8 rules but might end up goin with a clipped wheel 2.6 charger of some variety to meet protrusion rules.....and yeah I know that is a lot of fuel for a 2.6 charger.
 
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Dieselboy.

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1.01 and be done. Or even a .98 for that matter

4202 is a 74 comp wheel right ?

I run a 1.10 on my s471, wouldnt you want a looser housing to keep bp in check non waste gated ?

Or would a 1.15 be to much for that turbo on a DD CC/SB ?

I was thinking of upgrading my compe wheel to a 75mm. This is why I ask.
 

Hotrodtractor

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What turbo would you guys suggest for 450/400s going into a dedicated puller with an auto? Most of the classes around here still use the old 2.8 rules but might end up goin with a clipped wheel 2.6 charger of some variety to meet protrusion rules.....and yeah I know that is a lot of fuel for a 2.6 charger.

Most of the guys in the 2.6 class these days are running custom turbos based off of S400s (S480s) or HX60s. The level of competition and power range in your area will dictate how far you need to go, but don't expect to street drive your stuff with a charger setup for the 2.6 class unless you install something a whole lot more mild.
 

chris1978

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Is there anything to be gained by going to a 66/74 S366 from my current 38R setup? I plan on jumping up to a 250/100 injector in the future.
 

JD3020

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Most of the guys in the 2.6 class these days are running custom turbos based off of S400s (S480s) or HX60s. The level of competition and power range in your area will dictate how far you need to go, but don't expect to street drive your stuff with a charger setup for the 2.6 class unless you install something a whole lot more mild.

:whs:

Girl that i've talked to some at college pulls a competitive 2.6 D-max around here. She said that the charger doesn't even begin to start lighting until well over 2k RPM's. I can't even begin to imagine trying to drive something like that on the street, probably be a little smokey. LOL
 

truckpullin_75

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Most of the guys in the 2.6 class these days are running custom turbos based off of S400s (S480s) or HX60s. The level of competition and power range in your area will dictate how far you need to go, but don't expect to street drive your stuff with a charger setup for the 2.6 class unless you install something a whole lot more mild.
:whs:
Girl that i've talked to some at college pulls a competitive 2.6 D-max around here. She said that the charger doesn't even begin to start lighting until well over 2k RPM's. I can't even begin to imagine trying to drive something like that on the street, probably be a little smokey. LOL

You guys did see where I said dedicated puller right?? lol But anyway Jim Legg, Joe/Tom Hill, and Zach Andrews are three of the trucks that I would be running against regularly. Along with a couple fairly hot 12 valve dodges, one of which is running a billet sigma pump.....if that gives you any idea of what the competition is like in my area.
 

Hotrodtractor

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You guys did see where I said dedicated puller right?? lol But anyway Jim Legg, Joe/Tom Hill, and Zach Andrews are three of the trucks that I would be running against regularly. Along with a couple fairly hot 12 valve dodges, one of which is running a billet sigma pump.....if that gives you any idea of what the competition is like in my area.

Yep - I did read that. I read it all the time and then you find out later that they want to drive to church on Sundays and pull a goose neck with their dedicated pulling trucks. Custom built HX60 is what you need for a turbo. Hope you have a high stall in your converter and about 4.88 or so gears.
 

Powerstroke Cowboy

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I have a HX55 Turbo. That as of now has a 25CM T6 Housing...
The turbo (in the specs) has a 86mm inducer and 80mm exducer Turbine wheel.

I am looking to go with a smaller housing. And I found a company that will machine a 1.10 A/R S400 T4 exhaust housing to fit the wheel on the HX55. All they want is 100 Bucks for the housing and to machine it. I think that is a fare price

Now would that 1:10 A/R T4 housing be to laggy of a housing??? Would it spool good enough to be a DD turbo and tow with it??? Or do you think I should go smaller yet???

The MAX boost this turbo will see will be 25 to 30 PSI if I go compounds. And that is the plan.. SO could I get away with the .90 A/R ????

They know for a fact the 1.10 Wall clamp onto the HX55. ust needs machined to fit the wheel..

BUT they migh also have .90 A/R and 1.00 A/R housings, That they think "might" clamp on th the HX55. ALL these housing are off a S400 Frame turbo..


I guess how close would the 1.10 A/R be to a 19CM housing????

Thanks for the help!!!
 

Powerstroke Cowboy

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I have a HX55 Turbo. That as of now has a 25CM T6 Housing...
The turbo (in the specs) has a 86mm inducer and 80mm exducer Turbine wheel.

I am looking to go with a smaller housing. And I found a company that will machine a 1.10 A/R S400 T4 exhaust housing to fit the wheel on the HX55. All they want is 100 Bucks for the housing and to machine it. I think that is a fare price

Now would that 1:10 A/R T4 housing be to laggy of a housing??? Would it spool good enough to be a DD turbo and tow with it??? Or do you think I should go smaller yet???

The MAX boost this turbo will see will be 25 to 30 PSI if I go compounds. And that is the plan.. SO could I get away with the .90 A/R ????

They know for a fact the 1.10 Wall clamp onto the HX55. ust needs machined to fit the wheel..

BUT they migh also have .90 A/R and 1.00 A/R housings, That they think "might" clamp on th the HX55. ALL these housing are off a S400 Frame turbo..


I guess how close would the 1.10 A/R be to a 19CM housing????

Thanks for the help!!!



I know it has just been a day... BUT anyone????
 

Powerstroke Cowboy

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have you tried calling river city turbo in little rock?

No I have not.. Did not know there was such a company..

I was mainly wondering if the 1.10 would be to big, For only going to 25 to 30 PSI..

I would like the turbo to spool as Quick as it can. I need a turbo that can spool good for towing.

What do you think would be best .90 1.00 or 1.10 A/R housings with a T4 foot??? 86/80 Turbine wheel.. 66/99 billet Comp wheel.. I would like the answer to be based off of towing.. I have a 50mm wast gate going on there to bypass the extra Exhaust to keep the turbo in the 25 to 30 PSI range..


thanks for your help Short Bus!!!!
 

Powerstroke Cowboy

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I also have my eyes on a 16cm housing off a HX52 that will clamp onto the HX55 Just needs machining work done for it to fit..

I have my eyes on another housing of a HX52. just have not got a answer yet what size it is..
 

Powerstroke Cowboy

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I also have my eyes on a 16cm housing off a HX52 that will clamp onto the HX55 Just needs machining work done for it to fit..

I have my eyes on another housing of a HX52. just have not got a answer yet what size it is..


Both HX52 housings I am looking at are 16cm Non Gated. I can get the one housing for 75.09 shipped to my door. It would need machining to fit the wheel on the HX55 I have.. A 16cm housing would be to small right??? Even if i am going to run just 25 psi out of the turbo??? 30 MAX

The Guy says they have a T5 foot???? He gave me some dementions so i will have to check into that..



Short Bus. I have a Email into River City Turbo.. I would call but my cell does not work right anymore..

Thanks for the help in advance guys!!!

On Edit: I might just go with the 16cm and see how well it works, If i cant find the information I am looking for... If it is to tight for what i want.. I will just go bigger..
 

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