Brute66 opinions

DocBar

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Pius has a bunch turbos for 7.3 because they all have a specific purpose in mind. T4,t4i, specific HP applications. Therefore you get a turbo that specific to your application. Not a jack of all trades so to speak turbo like the 38r.
But yes. I do agree with you about the stupid letters thou. I do wish he would just call them by there specs like everybody else. It would make IT easier to chose.
A whole lot of truth in that, also. Pius is slow as hell. but he'll build you a turbo that fits exactly what you want out of your truck.

The 38R is a damned good turbo, though. If you don't mind the constant whistle. I drove the crap out of mine for nearly 200k before it gave up the ghost.
 

The Brad

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A whole lot of truth in that, also. Pius is slow as hell. but he'll build you a turbo that fits exactly what you want out of your truck.

The 38R is a damned good turbo, though. If you don't mind the constant whistle. I drove the crap out of mine for nearly 200k before it gave up the ghost.

Mine has almost zero whistle with a WW2. My 38r cast wheel has less than 20 miles on it because that damned whistle was so annoying. Mainly because it was more like 2 whistles slightly out of tune. With the WW2, it's almost as quiet as a stock GTP38.
 

TyCorr

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The billet wheels completely get rid of the 38r caterwaul.

If you get into it hard, and let out it will give a whoosh but you don't get that piercing siren sound around 5psi..
 

lincolnlocker

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I'm having the same bad luck. 200/80's, 38r, WW2, 40hp tow (live tuned)=1300* egts and less speed pulling 10k up a grade than with stock turbo/sticks. And a intermittent rough idle.
click the od button.. let her breathe with some rpm

Pretty sure any injector builder that has anything "custom" out there, has had problems sooner or later. Nobody has a perfect record.
That's where after sale service, maybe way, way after sales service can make or break a shop.
I'm running ff, swamps, and, hopefully soon, pis injectors, they work with what you send them.


All that bs aside, I'm gonna have to see what the fuss is all about with these alphabet turbos, lol.
My 38r s seem to do anything I need, but there is fuel available on the top end. Maybe a change is in order, lol.

is it billet wheeled
What's boost and icp look like? All the live tuning in the world can't fix a mechanical deficiency.
for sure

To be honest that setup should ***kin rip!

It should tow like a beast.

yup
The billet wheels completely get rid of the 38r caterwaul.

If you get into it hard, and let out it will give a whoosh but you don't get that piercing siren sound around 5psi..
hook it to my 5er and she still screams!

live life full throttle
 

DocBar

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The billet wheels completely get rid of the 38r caterwaul.

If you get into it hard, and let out it will give a whoosh but you don't get that piercing siren sound around 5psi..
Didn't further testing show that the WW2 wasn't quite the catz azz it was supposed to be?
 

TyCorr

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Didn't further testing show that the WW2 wasn't quite the catz azz it was supposed to be?

Idk. There are different wheels out there. The dieselsite wheel performed well during tests I believe. My billet wheel is rad but converter lock and cruising at a speed just beyond the point where the converter locks, my egts get hot. My bellowed uppipes are good, my wheel bearings are all new, brakes are good, no intercooler issues. I get a damn spot where the charger just isnt keeping shti cool. Im in belief that its the wheel. It never did it before. But if I speed up or lock out od it cools right down.
 

PSD POWER007

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Idk. There are different wheels out there. The dieselsite wheel performed well during tests I believe. My billet wheel is rad but converter lock and cruising at a speed just beyond the point where the converter locks, my egts get hot. My bellowed uppipes are good, my wheel bearings are all new, brakes are good, no intercooler issues. I get a damn spot where the charger just isnt keeping shti cool. Im in belief that its the wheel. It never did it before. But if I speed up or lock out od it cools right down.

What turbo?
 

PSD POWER007

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I run a WW2 in my 38r. Installed it before I put the turbo on. I have wondered if it's better with or without. I've also had an itch to try the RiffRaff wheel. Have any of you run the stock wheel and then switched to the billet wheel? Just wondering what your thoughts are. I know I could definitely feel a nice difference when I installed the WW2 on my stock turbo.
 

The Brad

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I run a WW2 in my 38r. Installed it before I put the turbo on. I have wondered if it's better with or without. I've also had an itch to try the RiffRaff wheel. Have any of you run the stock wheel and then switched to the billet wheel? Just wondering what your thoughts are. I know I could definitely feel a nice difference when I installed the WW2 on my stock turbo.

Diesel site came out with another wheel for the 38r. It's a 6/6 wheel which they claim is better for towing performance whereas the single height WW2 flows more on top end. I'd like to try the Riffraf wheel, but the BASB has me interested, but I have a few other issues to resolve first.

Here's a copy and paste from Dieselsite:

Need help deciding which wheel to purchase?
The 66 model will have better bottom end, quicker spool, and lower EGTs towing.
The 38R model will produce more peak hp.
If you have stock injectors, or have larger hybrids with tuning to pull back power- the 66 model will be better.
If max power is important and you have larger injectors - the 38R model will be better.
If you have an aftermarket "D66" style turbo with an un-ported compressor cover - the 66 model is a perfect choice.
 

PSD POWER007

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Diesel site came out with another wheel for the 38r. It's a 6/6 wheel which they claim is better for towing performance whereas the single height WW2 flows more on top end. I'd like to try the Riffraf wheel, but the BASB has me interested, but I have a few other issues to resolve first.

Here's a copy and paste from Dieselsite:

Need help deciding which wheel to purchase?
The 66 model will have better bottom end, quicker spool, and lower EGTs towing.
The 38R model will produce more peak hp.
If you have stock injectors, or have larger hybrids with tuning to pull back power- the 66 model will be better.
If max power is important and you have larger injectors - the 38R model will be better.
If you have an aftermarket "D66" style turbo with an un-ported compressor cover - the 66 model is a perfect choice.

I wonder which is the better match for my FF 180/80's. Seems on a smaller injector, the 66 wheels would be best.
 

PSD POWER007

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I wonder which is a better match for my size injectors. The First WW2 was the only one out when I got mine. Exploring all options for the best match for my set up.
 

Jennifer@Dieselsite

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We did get lots of reports that the 11 blade quieted down the 38R. It didn't seem to be 100% of guys - different setups? - but a lot of people did call back to tell us about it.
 

Jomax

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We did get lots of reports that the 11 blade quieted down the 38R. It didn't seem to be 100% of guys - different setups? - but a lot of people did call back to tell us about it.

How does your 66 wheel work in the 38r? I have one waiting to go in.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
 

Swaan

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Man I've gone over the diffrent effects with blade count before on another thread.
But in a nut shell. :::
The single plane 11 blade gtx style wheels will flow the most air at very high shaft speeds. Also have fastest spool up and will be the quietest of all the wheels. But this is also why some people exsperiance higher egts towing at lower rpm with the 11 blade.
Now then the 6by6 wheel will have the most air flow at slower shaft speeds. This is why it will be better for towing. Top end power will be slightly less compared to the single plane 11 blade. 6 blade will be the loudest of the bunch.
The 7by7 will be somewhere in the middle of the two. This is why the 7by7 is probley the most popular do everything wheel.

If your after every bit of top end power. 11 blade
If you got a everyday driver it's hard to beat the split blade 6by6 or 7by7.
Hope that helps.
 
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PSD POWER007

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Who makes the 7x7?
I have the single plane currently as that was the only one out when I got my 38r.
It seems I'm always under the turbo when cruising. Looks like the 6x6 or 7x7 will be in my future if I don't go with a BASB.
I wonder which is best of the 6x6 between the DS and RR wheels. RR is much less expensive...
 

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