BUILD - RCD Longblock/Elite Single

[MorganY]

Ok I see what you're saying. I'd be interested to see what he says too. I definitely respect everything that man has to say

X2 insanely smart and talented especially for being 21-22?

I'm just another guy who used to have too much time on my hands.

As far as the filter consolidation..That is a good idea, and could potentially save you a lot of money on filter changes.

The problem is you would likely need to add a spin on water separator.

I don’t believe the factory pump would be able to separate the water effectively without a filter inside of the bowl. I don’t know for sure, and don’t really want to test it on someone’s truck considering water is a cause for injector issues, and nozzle cracking.

You’d also be negating the advantage of having lifetime water separation with the pump as opposed to a spin on separator that still needs replacing, etc.

It would be more cost effective, and cleaner (huge mess of fuel lines under the truck), to install a high performance pump in place of the two low pressure pumps if you wanted to consolidate filtration and eliminate the perks of staying with the factory units. But if you eliminate the factory pumps, you'll be missing out of the fuel heater capabilities for the winter time if you live in the cold.

The factory fuel pumps contain a thermal recirculating valve. The valve allows the returning fuel to be sent through the pump again or sent back to the fuel tank (based on fuel temperature).

 

[Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto]

I'm just another guy who used to have too much time on my hands.

As far as the filter consolidation..That is a good idea, and could potentially save you a lot of money on filter changes.

The problem is you would likely need to add a spin on water separator.

I don’t believe the factory pump would be able to separate the water effectively without a filter inside of the bowl. I don’t know for sure, and don’t really want to test it on someone’s truck considering water is a cause for injector issues, and nozzle cracking.

You’d also be negating the advantage of having lifetime water separation with the pump as opposed to a spin on separator that still needs replacing, etc.

It would be more cost effective, and cleaner (huge mess of fuel lines under the truck), to install a high performance pump in place of the two low pressure pumps if you wanted to consolidate filtration and eliminate the perks of staying with the factory units. But if you eliminate the factory pumps, you'll be missing out of the fuel heater capabilities for the winter time if you live in the cold.

The factory fuel pumps contain a thermal recirculating valve. The valve allows the returning fuel to be sent through the pump again or sent back to the fuel tank (based on fuel temperature).

The factory fuel cooler also circulates warm coolant through it. Fwiw.


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[WhiteMamba_Scorpion]

The factory fuel cooler also circulates warm coolant through it. Fwiw.


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What would be the advantages or disadvantages of the H&S pump vs 2 factory pumps performance wise? Besides number of filters used. Guess I'm confused about the fuel cooler heater talk you guys mentioned.

 

[gfulton]

X2 insanely smart and talented especially for being 21-22?

Maybe a little biased boys but he is one of the smartest guys to grace this website........

 

[WhiteMamba_Scorpion]

Lol which Morgan are we talking about? Cuz they both know their stuff

 

[Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto]

What would be the advantages or disadvantages of the H&S pump vs 2 factory pumps performance wise? Besides number of filters used. Guess I'm confused about the fuel cooler heater talk you guys mentioned.

Performance, none.

The factory frame mounted fuel cooler uses coolant to cool the fuel, which in turn heats the cold fuel.

Personally as I have stated before, my factory LP pump has held with a 2015 hpfp in the valley and the 10mm stroker on the belt.

I'm sure there will be more options out there as time progresses. But for now I don't know what I would go with. Probably a custom setup using a Fuelab pump and a sump on the tank. But that's just me, I'm a little different.


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[Six_Sloww]

Fuel labs are the f***in ticket on 6.0's which have similar pressures. And cost about 600 bucks to build a setup. The stock 6.7 one is great too I'm sure but throwing filters away would get real old for me

 

[Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto]

I am working on a filter base that will incorporate a Fuelab pump. May take 6 months but I think it will be worth it.


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[WhiteMamba_Scorpion]

Gotcha. I see what you're saying now. Maybe I'll switch it up if the compounds ever happen. Thanks for explaining that

 

[MorganY]

The factory fuel cooler also circulates warm coolant through it. Fwiw.


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Yea but not as effective if returned straight to the tank. Lots of heat loss as opposed to the factory lift pump solution of bypassing tank return. But we're talking effective in extreme cold lol

Main thing is water separation. I don't think my baldwin style WS does anything. I used to always have water come out of my factory HFCM, now nothing comes out of my baldwin, and I still have to replace them. Even cracked a nozzle since the incorporation of a new WS.

 

[jcain]

I've been in -20f weather with my H&S lpfp with no ill side effects.

 

[MorganY]

I've been in -20f weather with my H&S lpfp with no ill side effects.

And I am sure you will continue to have zero problems.

 

[50_shooter]

Got mine back today. I like the turbo for the most part. What gears do you have? I immediately noticed that 6th gear is worthless with my 3.55's. Egts are 100 higher almost all the time, and turbo runs very little boost at 65 mph. Kinda a dog. Drop it to 5th and its a ton better, but mileage goes down a little. I think lower gears would get the turbo more in its sweet spot. On another note, I pray for my rods, and I haven't even had the balls to put it higher than the tow setting. Really didn't wanna blow it up the same day I got it back. Oh, and the turbo does whistle, mainly when its boosting. Kinda screams when shes really pumping, enough to intimidate me a little as I look in my rearview and see black marks for quite a ways where the tires are biting into the pavement from a 20mph roll on in TOW setting, and my junk stock tires have little chunks ripped out of them...

 

[WhiteMamba_Scorpion]

Currently 3.31s and I never go 65 unless someone is blocking the fast lane. I've considered swapping gears but my roommate had identical trucks to me besides having 3.55s and we were dead nuts even every time we raced and I got better fuel milage than him. Obviously none of this matters until I get the truck back and put some miles on it

 

[Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto]

3.31's and a non vgt are for the most part not meant to be together. 50shooter's truck spools well for a non vgt. But as with any non vgt single the biggest downfall is the loss of cruising boost and tip in throttle response at cruising rpm. Non VGTS rely on air volume and heat to spool based off of their fixed turbine and housing dimensions. A vgt can make up for variances in rpm and therefore will spool at a lower rpm yet open to allow for more turbine flow at a higher rpm. Off the line the 3.97:1 first gear makes spooling a breeze for either style. I think you will most likely be getting a gear swap to 3.73's in the near future.


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[Six_Sloww]

To add to Morgan's point.. A 3.73 may actually help your mileage with the non vgt. It seems backwards, but you're moving your powerband and peak torque farther up in the rpm range and a numerically higher gear will put you back into the optimal range. The vgt works well with the numerically low gear because it's not struggling low in the rpms at all.

 

[WhiteMamba_Scorpion]

I completely understand what you're saying. I'd like to actually drive a running truck before I think about spending more money on a truck I haven't sat in in 299 days. I'll also be ditching the 35s and going back to 295s. I'm sure if it needs a gear swap I'm only 15 mins from Unlimited Diesel. I'm sure Nate can take care of it

 

[Black AOD]

You wuss. Ditching 35's....

 

[WhiteMamba_Scorpion]

Also fwiw I bought the truck used. I would never order a truck with 3.31s that's just what it came with. I've been considering changing them for awhile just haven't looked much into it since I haven't been driving the truck for so long. I know 3.73s will suit me better for my goals with the truck. Previous owner was a pavement pounding lawyer

 

[CMCx2012]

I'm just another guy who used to have too much time on my hands.

As far as the filter consolidation..That is a good idea, and could potentially save you a lot of money on filter changes.

The problem is you would likely need to add a spin on water separator.

I don’t believe the factory pump would be able to separate the water effectively without a filter inside of the bowl. I don’t know for sure, and don’t really want to test it on someone’s truck considering water is a cause for injector issues, and nozzle cracking.

You’d also be negating the advantage of having lifetime water separation with the pump as opposed to a spin on separator that still needs replacing, etc.

It would be more cost effective, and cleaner (huge mess of fuel lines under the truck), to install a high performance pump in place of the two low pressure pumps if you wanted to consolidate filtration and eliminate the perks of staying with the factory units. But if you eliminate the factory pumps, you'll be missing out of the fuel heater capabilities for the winter time if you live in the cold.

The factory fuel pumps contain a thermal recirculating valve. The valve allows the returning fuel to be sent through the pump again or sent back to the fuel tank (based on fuel temperature).

Wow, I never knew that there was a heating source in place for those pumps! So, as much as this concept helps for those of us who live in the Northeast, would it be a bad thing if we were to switch over the HS lpfp setup?

Thanks for yet another bit of useful information, Morgan.