Project: Reliability - Its 6.0 Delete Time

Matt_P · Aug 18, 2012

TheSmokinStroke2002 said:
Yeah i agree. Im sure you'll figure something out.

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yeah thats on the bottom of the list, unfortunately I havent even made it back down to work on it cause Ive been busy getting stuff together at the house

TheSmokinStroke2002 · Aug 18, 2012

Matt_P said:
yeah thats on the bottom of the list, unfortunately I havent even made it back down to work on it cause Ive been busy getting stuff together at the house

You moving?

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Matt_P · Aug 18, 2012

TheSmokinStroke2002 said:
You moving?

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Nope just getting settled back in

TheSmokinStroke2002 · Aug 19, 2012

Matt_P said:
Nope just getting settled back in

ah gotcha.

Matt_P · Aug 21, 2012

Update:

I got the idle bumped up so it wont stall out now and figure out whats causing the transmission to shift, but have not determined a solution.

I figured out that the issue is in the trans control relay. The control side of the relay (pins 85 and 86) work the way they are supposed to. It gets ignition power to pin 86 when I turn the key to that side and then completes the circuit through the relay to the PCM via pin 85 (PNK wire) for the trans relay control.

The issue is that this doesnt close the switch on the controlled side of the circuit which is the hot at all times wire to pin 30 which should close to give power to pin 87 to send power via the RED wire to the trans solenoid assembly in the valve body.

I tried a couple different relays and no matter what it stays open. I got it to close once and it went in first when I put it in drive but then opened back up. I have no clue whats going on.

Anyone have any ideas? Im considering ordering a PCS and making it work with this valve body since suncoasts standalone VB is on 3 month backorder if I cant figure this out but as of right now Im lost

TurboM700 · Aug 21, 2012

Check and make sure the PCM is fully grounding pin 86. Check voltage on it. Also try jumping right from pin 87 to 39. Bypass the relay all together.

Matt_P · Aug 21, 2012

TurboM700 said:
Check and make sure the PCM is fully grounding pin 86. Check voltage on it. Also try jumping right from pin 87 to 39. Bypass the relay all together.

Yeah good point on checking the ground, I need to check it at the two pins A31 and A32 that are the grounds for the PCM. I thought about jumping 87 and 30 but I was just worried about possibly damaging the valve body.

TurboM700 · Aug 21, 2012

It appears to be the main power to the Transmission then you will have no issue with just jumping them.

My guess is that the key provides the power to the control side of the relay and the computer/pcm provides the ground. If you have power and ground from the compture the relays control side should be good. If you have a wiring diagram throw it up and I can give you suggestions on where to test.

Mike

Matt_P · Aug 21, 2012

TurboM700 said:
It appears to be the main power to the Transmission then you will have no issue with just jumping them.

My guess is that the key provides the power to the control side of the relay and the computer/pcm provides the ground. If you have power and ground from the compture the relays control side should be good. If you have a wiring diagram throw it up and I can give you suggestions on where to test.

Mike

Yeah its definitely the main power to the trans, I didnt think Id have an issue with jumping it as its power directly from the battery anyways, Im just over cautious. I think tomorrow though I will try jumping it.

I had the same thoughts for the key on power grounding to the PCM as well, Ill make sure to check my PCM grounds for voltage tomorrow as well. I just have the wiring diagrams on paper but can try and get them on the computer.

And thank you for all the help!

TheSmokinStroke2002 · Aug 21, 2012

Matt_P said:
Yeah its definitely the main power to the trans, I didnt think Id have an issue with jumping it as its power directly from the battery anyways, Im just over cautious. I think tomorrow though I will try jumping it.

I had the same thoughts for the key on power grounding to the PCM as well, Ill make sure to check my PCM grounds for voltage tomorrow as well. I just have the wiring diagrams on paper but can try and get them on the computer.

And thank you for all the help!

do you still have access to Mitchell on demand?

Matt_P · Aug 21, 2012

TheSmokinStroke2002 said:
do you still have access to Mitchell on demand?

Yeah I just dont have access to it in the classroom Im in right now and I cant get it on my computer because I have a Mac

But I just talked with a couple experts and after throwing around the idea of a PCS controller with this valve body, they agree its the way to go. They say with a simple speed and throttle position signal to the PCS I could have my problems solved.

So tomorrow I think Im going to order a PCS and universal harness

TheSmokinStroke2002 · Aug 21, 2012

Matt_P said:
Yeah I just dont have access to it in the classroom Im in right now and I cant get it on my computer because I have a Mac

But I just talked with a couple experts and after throwing around the idea of a PCS controller with this valve body, they agree its the way to go. They say with a simple speed and throttle position signal to the PCS I could have my problems solved.

So tomorrow I think Im going to order a PCS and universal harness

Good deal.

Matt_P · Aug 21, 2012

TheSmokinStroke2002 said:
Good deal.

Yeah its more money to dump into a truck but if this is the last thing I need to finally get my truck on the road then Im getting it. I was really hoping the dodge PCM thing would work but I just dont know enough about the inner workings of the PCM to keep messing with it.

Brandon Miller thinks that the PCM is probably not seeing crank signal which is causing it to not send power to the transmission.

Matt_P · Aug 23, 2012

Little update from working on the truck yesterday:

I got my charging issue figured out by running the ignition signal for the regulator to the ignition source for the vacuum pump.

Then I moved on to the transmission to see if I could get it to shift at all. I first checked the gap for the engine speed sensor again and it was way off so I reset it back to .020. Then I went and checked ground and power and I was getting both. Moved on then to checking that I was getting 5v reference voltage to the engine speed sensor, tps etc while the truck was running and I was getting a solid 5v. So I know the PCM is sending out power.

The problem though was the relay was still not closing the switch on the controlled side for the transmission relay. So I just decided to jump pin 30 to pin 87. I back the truck out of the shop and starting moving forward and it shifted from 1st to 2nd to 3rd all nice and smooth so I was pretty happy there.

Still no OD or lockup Im thinking using the ford VSS might have something to do with that as Im sure its not the same signal. Im going out of town for the weekend but when I get back Ill look at it more but progress has been made.

Matt_P · Aug 29, 2012

Well guys,

After 8 long months I finally drove the Fummins home tonight! Put about 60 miles on it so far. I ended up soldering in a 1000ohm resistor to the trans temp signal wire and got my OD and lockup.

The truck is running great but I need to spend some good time tuning the pump

Overall though Im very happy with it!