SRP1.1 failure

[Marty]

if you google "HPOP rear cover failure" you will find a few threads where even stock pumps blow the guts out the back.
srp1.1 uses a spirolock to replace the factory inside snapring to try and address that issue

sucks to hear yours failed.
I am very interested to see more pics as it comes out.

This is the failure point.

 

[Southmike]

that ring looks much harder to put on and take out.

 

[TyCorr]

Cant the cover be tapped, helicoiled possibly and a threaded cover be.used? Spirolok=chintzy...

 

[strokin'_tatsch]

that ring looks much harder to put on and take out.

Speaking purely from experience with spirolox for piston pins, they are actually pretty easy to work with... Not sure if that one is any harder, but I doubt it.

 

[backwoodsboy]

Cant the cover be tapped, helicoiled possibly and a threaded cover be.used? Spirolok=chintzy...

Haven't torn a HPOP apart far enough to know for sure how thick the cover is, but I doubt there would be enough thread engagement for this option to be viable.
Exact formula escapes me at the moment, but typically you want thread engagement to be roughly 70% of nominal diameter.

 

[ARS267]

Haven't torn a HPOP apart far enough to know for sure how thick the cover is, but I doubt there would be enough thread engagement for this option to be viable.
Exact formula escapes me at the moment, but typically you want thread engagement to be roughly 70% of nominal diameter.

The general rule I've always gone by for thread engagement for bolts is 1.5 x diameter for steel, 1.75 x diameter for cast, and 2.0 x diameter for aluminium.

If i remember correctly the last time i saw the rear cover off a pump it wasn't much more than 3-4 mm thick.

 

[Tom S]

There is not enough room in a stock style housing to do a threaded rear cap.

 

[Barnhartal]

Cant the cover be tapped, helicoiled possibly and a threaded cover be.used? Spirolok=chintzy...

If spirolok = cheesy why does performance transmissions use them instead of snap rings. Same goes for wrist pin keepers, and highpo front drive slugs.

 

[Powerstroked162]

There is not enough room in a stock style housing to do a threaded rear cap.

It could be TIG welded though


.

 

[backwoodsboy]

The general rule I've always gone by for thread engagement for bolts is 1.5 x diameter for steel, 1.75 x diameter for cast, and 2.0 x diameter for aluminium.

If i remember correctly the last time i saw the rear cover off a pump it wasn't much more than 3-4 mm thick.

This is more accurate.

Should have worded mine better. The easiest way for me to remember it is 70% of nominal diameter is the # of threads of engagement as opposed to depth of engagement. So a M20X2.0 bolt would have 14 threads or 28mm (roughly 1.5 x diameter) of engagement. I'm typically working with steel and fine threads so this gets me close enough for ballpark numbers. Your numbers are the correct way however.

Derail over.

 

[m j]

Funny how people site "loosing the leaks" as a reason for going this route over duals. My bts pumps haven't leaked one drop ever. But they're complicated and take up a lot of spaceLOL

BTW, I don't feel strongly about any particular option, it was just an innocent observation and a little spooning of the pot.

if your setup uses stock pump castings and rear covers it is just as likely, maybe more if you use the stock C clips, to leak there as an SRP1.1 is.
it is a stock housing issue so any setup using stock housings can have it.

only had my SRP1.1 for a couple of weeks but it doesnt leak a drop and I hope it never does.

OP (and blackbetty) you have to pull the pump to fix it. I would not run the motor until it is fixed as you risk pushing the guts completely out of the pump if the retaining clip is compromised.

 

[neverkickn]

Very true. Just talking smack.

 

[Southmike]

The stock pump is not just as likely to leak as the srp sorry that is just a crock.
It is a copyof the pulse and while it is improved I am sure the pulse was pulled for a reason.
Can you guess why...some fail some don't hmm sounds familar.

A great design no reason why it shoukd work yet one out of a few wets the bed. The great thing is more research is done and weak points fixed. Eventually it will be sorted out.

 

[97stoker350]

well looks like the spirolock **** the bed

 

[patrick@WDI]

Have you called Gary?

 

[97stoker350]

yes i just talked to him. i didnt know that this was such a big issue because he knew right away it was me calling. i did not mean to start any wars or cause problems i daily drive my truck and i need it to be running all the time. after only putting 15000 miles on a 13000 dollar build these are the things you dont want or expect to happen. anyways i did talk to him, sounds like a good guy, he explained what happens and that they would get it, put a new spirolock ring in, resurface the casting and send it back out under warranty.

 

[patrick@WDI]

I had forwarded this thread to him last night

 

[97stoker350]

well once i get the pump back on we will be headed to sheid with this thing to hit the rollers hopefully.

 

[patrick@WDI]

Good deal

What all do you have done in your build?

 

[97stoker350]

its all in my sig. was hoping to have traction bars on but it looks like its not going to happen. thank god it didnt blow the guts out the back or that would have really pissed me off