sootie
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this is a long shot but i saw a 6.4 that had a leaking front cover and the first place i noticed an issue was in the ccv tube, it had sludge just like webb06's picture
webb06 official build thread
- Thread starter webb06
- Start date
HD F250
Active member
Yes, his was filled with many more in works.
webb06
Active member
Yay..
Pulled the ccv canister off and everything is covered in the black jelly stuff. Oil filter has coolant in it too.
Where do I even begin to find the source?
Pulled the ccv canister off and everything is covered in the black jelly stuff. Oil filter has coolant in it too.
Where do I even begin to find the source?
Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto
New member
Pull the rockers and pushrods. Pressurize it to 20psi and look down in the lifter valley. You'll most likely find it.
webb06
Active member
This would entail removing fuel rail and injectors as well?
webb06
Active member
Pulled the oil pan and got enough room to see inside and pressurized the cooling system. Can see water droplets dripping off the rods bolts. So add me to the cracked block list I guess....
Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto
New member
Sorry to hear man
webb06
Active member
Ford reman short block the best option? Or try some other company that would build me a short block? I'd like to be able to get the international pistons put in when they build it. Which wouldn't be possible with a ford short block unless I swapped the pistons out. Which might affect the warranty on it.
Meniacal_Mark
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Get a short block from elite or rudy's etc etc?
HD F250
Active member
That sucks, sorry to hear that you are added to that $hitty list!
madman1234509
New member
So you over torqued your studs? That sucks to hear man. Hopefully you can dig into it more and find out exactly where it cracked to keep us all posted
Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto
New member
I don't think it is that simple. If it was all due to over torque then how come there are guys that torqued to 350 before? I know Dustin has went way up there with torque. Craig has too.
My guess is core shift with some of the blocks being thinner on the lifter valley area then others. They all crack in the lifter valley around the head bolt threads. That seems to be where the weakness is.
Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto
New member
Either buy a short block or start with a brand new block. The built motor that we just finished that cracked is getting a brand new block swapped in.
Let me know if I can help on the short block. For the money a short block with swapped pistons isn't bad. But you never know what your getting with ford reman stuff. It would be about the same to start with a new block using your old crank and rods with new HD pistons.
webb06
Active member
Where can I get a NEW block?
jdgleason
Active member
My truck used to do that really bad with KEM tunes. I believe some of my IDP tunes did it too. Turning right to get on the on ramp to the highway, I always cringed. With my gearhead tunes, it's never done it once.
Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto
New member
Ford.
webb06
Active member
whats all included with it? block and bedplate?
Erikclaw
Active member
Yeah, a little over half. It is filled enough to cover where the bottom of the stud would be. Hopefully it will strengthen it enough incase it feels like cracking.
Is there any way to measure the thickness of the blocks that crack to compare to say, one that hasn't? Would be nice if a Ford tech or whatever could get some info from guys and see if there is any similar traits. Like date of casting, where etc.
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Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto
New member
Ford.
webb06
Active member
whats all included? bare block and bedplate?
