webb06 official build thread

B585Ford

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I know I am a little late on this one, but sorry about your luck. This was a really cool build IMO.
 

forcefed6.4ford

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Prob going to deck the block and heads

A short block has the rotating assembly ie crank rod pistons and bed plate. Long block has heads, oil and water pump. I would go with a full long block. If you upgraded you came train, swap it over to the new engine. Sh1ts going to get pricey either way. What's a few more grand for a complete fresh start.
 
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We're talking block only...not short blocks. I'm gunna reuse my crank and maybe rods.

The machine shop magna fluxes the block I sent to them. It had coolant in the oil. I told them to check for cracks because we had a mysterious coolant leak. I told them that these blocks were notorious for cracking. They checked it and said its fine. They machined the block and balanced the rotating assembly. I assembled a $20k+ 6.4 engine and then installed into the truck. It instantly ate 1 gallon of coolant on the initial 60 miles. The machine shop did not pressure test the block like they were supposed to. They admitted their faults and are now swapping the blocks for me because of their mistake.

I do not have the time and they aren't going to pay me to fix their mistake so long story short they can switch the block over themselves

We supplied the block because its not their fault the block was cracked. But it was their fault that they didn't find the crack when it was supposed to be checked. They let it go out unchecked and charged me for it. Honest mistake and they are making it right. The customer isn't happy but at least it is getting fixed. Just sad that they couldn't have found it before when they had it the first time. Would have saved a lot of headache.
 

bigrpowr

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The machine shop magna fluxes the block I sent to them. It had coolant in the oil. I told them to check for cracks because we had a mysterious coolant leak. I told them that these blocks were notorious for cracking. They checked it and said its fine. They machined the block and balanced the rotating assembly. I assembled a $20k+ 6.4 engine and then installed into the truck. It instantly ate 1 gallon of coolant on the initial 60 miles. The machine shop did not pressure test the block like they were supposed to. They admitted their faults and are now swapping the blocks for me because of their mistake.

I do not have the time and they aren't going to pay me to fix their mistake so long story short they can switch the block over themselves

We supplied the block because its not their fault the block was cracked. But it was their fault that they didn't find the crack when it was supposed to be checked. They let it go out unchecked and charged me for it. Honest mistake and they are making it right. The customer isn't happy but at least it is getting fixed. Just sad that they couldn't have found it before when they had it the first time. Would have saved a lot of headache.

like normal.. payin the cost to be the boss.
 

webb06

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Called ford this morning. They told me there's no option for a short block. And a new block is $5500 and a long lock was like $9400!
 
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evytasy2.jpg


Brand new from ford. Comes with cam bearings, oil squirters and some assorted hardware.

Glad you got the price figured out.
 

webb06

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I wanted to be 100% sure it's the block so I pulled everything off the drivers side head with the cab still down. Pressurized it up and I can see where it's leaking. The second stud back, separates #2 and #4, on the top row. It's down in the lifter valley. I can see a small puddle and every few seconds I can watch a water droplet roll down.

Time to get the cab off and engine out...yippee
 

webb06

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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369945838.771598.jpg

Here's the best picture I can get. Can't see the crack just the puddle. I'll get better pictures when the engine is apart
 

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