DTA360 Re-Power

a_moore

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Final thought for the day;

Looks like from what I have seen...we are all running the intercooler reversed on this swap. So there are three scenarios;

1. The intercooler will not be a "holding tank" for oil in case of a turbo seal going out as it will slowly enter the engine and not run-away. (Oil will not accumulate.)

2. We are inviting a run-away by running the bottom of ic to the intake in case of a tubo seal failure. (Oil has direct path)

3. Is there an adverse effect on cooling charge air as hot air rises? Most heat exchangers flow from the bottom to the top forcing the media to climb and be subjected to the influence for a longer duration.

Either way, think I will add and air shutoff valve behind filter. Not for the pulling track, just to keep my hat and shirt in case it all goes south.
 

turbonitrous

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Final thought for the day;

Looks like from what I have seen...we are all running the intercooler reversed on this swap. So there are three scenarios;

1. The intercooler will not be a "holding tank" for oil in case of a turbo seal going out as it will slowly enter the engine and not run-away. (Oil will not accumulate.)

2. We are inviting a run-away by running the bottom of ic to the intake in case of a tubo seal failure. (Oil has direct path)

3. Is there an adverse effect on cooling charge air as hot air rises? Most heat exchangers flow from the bottom to the top forcing the media to climb and be subjected to the influence for a longer duration.

Either way, think I will add and air shutoff valve behind filter. Not for the pulling track, just to keep my hat and shirt in case it all goes south.
Sooo I went off the farm for intercooling… I have a water to air intercooler that sits in the direct path from hot side to cold side… it was its own water supply and pump … i mounted twin small radiators on the front to keep the coolant cool while moving, did decrease exhaust temps
 

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turbonitrous

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Final thought for the day;

Looks like from what I have seen...we are all running the intercooler reversed on this swap. So there are three scenarios;

1. The intercooler will not be a "holding tank" for oil in case of a turbo seal going out as it will slowly enter the engine and not run-away. (Oil will not accumulate.)

2. We are inviting a run-away by running the bottom of ic to the intake in case of a tubo seal failure. (Oil has direct path)

3. Is there an adverse effect on cooling charge air as hot air rises? Most heat exchangers flow from the bottom to the top forcing the media to climb and be subjected to the influence for a longer duration.

Either way, think I will add and air shutoff valve behind filter. Not for the pulling track, just to keep my hat and shirt in case it all goes south.
Sooo I went off the farm for intercooling… I have a water to air intercooler that sits in the direct path from hot side to cold side… it was its own water supply and pump … i mounted twin small radiators on the front to keep the coolant cool while moving, did decrease exhaust
 

turbonitrous

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Final thought for the day;

Looks like from what I have seen...we are all running the intercooler reversed on this swap. So there are three scenarios;

1. The intercooler will not be a "holding tank" for oil in case of a turbo seal going out as it will slowly enter the engine and not run-away. (Oil will not accumulate.)

2. We are inviting a run-away by running the bottom of ic to the intake in case of a tubo seal failure. (Oil has direct path)

3. Is there an adverse effect on cooling charge air as hot air rises? Most heat exchangers flow from the bottom to the top forcing the media to climb and be subjected to the influence for a longer duration.

Either way, think I will add and air shutoff valve behind filter. Not for the pulling track, just to keep my hat and shirt in case it all goes south.
It really shouldn’t matter on the placement of the intercooler high or low from an efficiency standpoint… the cfm’s will far outweigh any loss of efficiency due to heat migration or Brownian motion in air
 

turbonitrous

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Final thought for the day;

Looks like from what I have seen...we are all running the intercooler reversed on this swap. So there are three scenarios;

1. The intercooler will not be a "holding tank" for oil in case of a turbo seal going out as it will slowly enter the engine and not run-away. (Oil will not accumulate.)

2. We are inviting a run-away by running the bottom of ic to the intake in case of a tubo seal failure. (Oil has direct path)

3. Is there an adverse effect on cooling charge air as hot air rises? Most heat exchangers flow from the bottom to the top forcing the media to climb and be subjected to the influence for a longer duration.

Either way, think I will add and air shutoff valve behind filter. Not for the pulling track, just to keep my hat and shirt in case it all goes south.
I had the same concern in the runaway, let me know what you find on the air shut off, for now I’m just packing a CO2 extinguisher jic,,, not for any fire (well I suppose it could be) but to shut down all combustion no matter where it comes from
 

a_moore

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After lots of looking at the compound setup I chose a more conventional route. S360 on manifold and S475 above. Will see how pressure ratios are before adding a gate.

The 4094 was just looking too small for the atmosphere on the turbine wheel/housing. It was just a tad too big as a single with the zf6. I will miss its pretty sound.

The stainless manifold looks nice, slight mods will bolt right on.

Will be October before I get a break from work to get it together.
 

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a_moore

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Things are going to start happening.
 

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a_moore

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For those like me that have not been into a DT past an inframe...

You need the rear cover gasket, oil pan gasket and rear main when installing the adapter plate. Those do not come with the adapter plate.

I have done a few inframes, but this is new ground.
 

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turbonitrous

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For those like me that have not been into a DT past an inframe...

You need the rear cover gasket, oil pan gasket and rear main when installing the adapter plate. Those do not come with the adapter plate.

I have done a few inframes, but this is new ground.
Yeah and getting the ring off the crank and installing the new one is a real peach. I hate the thought of hitting the crank peeling off that speedisleeve
 

a_moore

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Yeah and getting the ring off the crank and installing the new one is a real peach. I hate the thought of hitting the crank peeling off that speedisleeve
I don't know what you are talking about. Please elaborate. Mine must have been already off. ?

I got a lot of issues.

1. Trans will not go on all the way, lacks 3/16". Found out pilot bearing is too far out after a ton of measuring. Flywheel needs re-machined.
2. Starter will not work, hitting flywheel teeth way before seating. Like 3/8". Not sure if gear is in correct location, wrong starter, or some shim is needed. I'm pretty sure I read the stock starter, so I bought a brand new one.

This is going to kill my vacation week for this project. Guess I will go sit in a combine or a tree. After all this I straight opened a beer just now. Lol
 

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a_moore

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Working on rear mounts all i can do. May set cab and work on hoses and misc bs.
 

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turbonitrous

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I don't know what you are talking about. Please elaborate. Mine must have been already off. ?

I got a lot of issues.

1. Trans will not go on all the way, lacks 3/16". Found out pilot bearing is too far out after a ton of measuring. Flywheel needs re-machined.
2. Starter will not work, hitting flywheel teeth way before seating. Like 3/8". Not sure if gear is in correct location, wrong starter, or some shim is needed. I'm pretty sure I read the stock starter, so I bought a brand new one.

This is going to kill my vacation week for this project. Guess I will go sit in a combine or a tree. After all this I straight opened a beer just now. Lol
 

turbonitrous

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For the starter, it requires a 7.3 powerstroke starter, I think I used a 99. I only used a stock one because I didn’t have enough room to use the high torque type.
For the rear Main… if got the McBee (going from memory on that spelling) it should have had two parts >> the seal itself and a speedisleeve that is inserted on the seal and should be installed as a pair. If it did have two parts there should be a Uber thin sleeve on there you have to peel off to install the new one.. if memory serves me you have to be careful with the two piece… do not remove the sleeve from the seal so the lips don’t get pushed in the wrong direction.
As far as the clearance, do you have all the spacers installed on the back end of the crank? I did an automatic flywheel so not extactly the same
 

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