07 expedition gets 4bta'd

CATDiezel · Feb 21, 2015

I recently ran the valves on a 2006 2500 5.9l with a 3" body lift.

That spoiled me like none other. I wish they ALL had that kind of room!!

rentstdi · Feb 22, 2015

What about massaging the firewall back to give a little bit more clearance?

gwunter · May 15, 2015

time for updates

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Had to redesign idler bracket, previous design didn't clear the front cover cap.

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No inner cooler yet. :(

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Coolant system plumbing.

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Home made starter spacer.

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Trans to xfer case plate adapter with adapter shaft.

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Transfer case bolted to tranny via machined adapter plate. Mating shaft also inside. Also note tranny adapter mount.

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4" downpipe, perhaps this is overkill.

This is my quick and dirty update.

ja_cain · May 15, 2015

That's awesome dude! The rotary table setup on those mills are probably sweet. I'm super envious and can't wait to do a similar project one day.

I saw a nice Cincinnati Versamill in VA on CL the other day but the price was a little steep ($5600). Also, I think I am in love with the Hardinge HLV-H lathes. Too bad they still go for uber steep prices (though there are some clones out there).

Thanks for posting an update on your project and look forward to another in the near future.

lincolnlocker · May 15, 2015

nice work so far man!!

live life full throttle

gwunter · Jun 9, 2015

I finally got a linkage set up to connect the original DBW throttle body to the injection pump. The mechanics of it work just fine. I do have a little concern that it won't work exactly correct after the engine is running since it won't have all the extra electrical inputs. I removed the IP return spring(sounds risky I know) and also the low idle screw stop. I'm really going outside the box here I know. But my goal is to have the throttle body control the motor. The linkages will require a lot of initial setup. I'm also a little concerned with how the cold start up advance mechanism will work with the throttle body.

I still need to alter driveshaft length, run fuel lines, install gauges, minor interior work for shifter, full fluids, exhaust, make some custom hoses, alter computer programming, clean up wiring. Hopefullly that's it. Been working near Cincinnati so progress is slow.

gwunter · Jun 22, 2015

So I've been hitting this pretty hard when I can. The rear driveshaft has been cut, welded and reinstalled; turned out OK I guess. Pulled the tank and sending unit and removed what pieces aren't needed. Got some 3/8 fuel line coming. I got my throttle set up installed. I really went out on a limb with this set up, but I really feel its going to work out. Its got good torque for throttling up and also returning to idle. My to-do list is shrinking.

Does anyone know where a 3rd gen expedition gets its speed reading from??

Does anyone know if a similar body style f150 pillar gauge pod will fit the expedition??

Thanks.

trackspeeder · Jun 22, 2015

I believe the speed sensor is on the transfer case.

TurboM700 · Jun 28, 2015

Rear diff

gwunter · Jun 29, 2015

Interesting. I don't remember seeing it on the transfer case. Ill try to look at the rear diff tonight.

I've been hitting it hard lately and I hope to fire it this coming weekend!! Very excited.

gwunter · Jul 5, 2015

Well I'm trying to fire the motor. All the lines are properly bled and I have good solid fuel to the injectors. And she still won't fire. As a test I gave it a very short shot of starting fluid and it fired on that. Some may frown on that, but it was just a test. The injecters are new. It doesnt even try to go. So I attached an old injector line with an old injector and it won't make the injector pop. Anybody have any suggestions?? Again i feel very confident that the air is out of the system. Thanks.

gwunter · Jul 6, 2015

Never mind I figured it out. I had a loose plug on the rear most part of the injection pump right in the center of where the 4 outlet ports are. Unfortunately I already had the pump off when I noticed and already had it torn down.

but the good new is it now purrs like a kitten......I mean like a typical Cummins.

Time to figure out clutch line and its test drive time!! BTW the throttle setup is working great!!

powerlifter405 · Jul 6, 2015

:thumbsup: Been following this for a while great to see some good news!

You're gonna have to make a cheat sheet/check list. We've been contemplating swaps but we're not sure which vehicle/motor combo would work best. Having an auto is almost a 100% as I've broken my knee, torn my ankle up bad enough the othro contemplated surgery, a broken collar bone and the wife broke her foot and she's too short to work a manual in a truck application. Hopefully we can follow in the swaping footsteps some day

powerlifter405 · Jul 6, 2015

:thumbsup: Been following this for a while great to see some good news!

You're gonna have to make a cheat sheet/check list. We've been contemplating swaps but we're not sure which vehicle/motor combo would work best. Having an auto is almost a 100% as I've broken my knee, torn my ankle up bad enough the othro contemplated surgery, a broken collar bone and the wife broke her foot and she's too short to work a manual in a truck application. Hopefully we can follow in the swaping footsteps some day

78f100 · Jul 7, 2015

gwunter said:
but the good new is it now purrs like a kitten...

hacking up a hair ball... 4bts don't purr they rattle...lol
Cool project man, I have also been waiting for you to finish it. Glad it's all coming together.

gwunter · Jul 7, 2015

I'm at a loss.

I believe I've thoroughly bled the clutch system, but the clutch still won't disengage. I've tried bleeding the clutch line several different ways, all with the same result. So my question it. Can the friction disk be put in there backwards to cause this problem??? I'm getting frustrated. I can see the throwout bearing riding on the pressure plate fingers, so there's no gap there. And when the pedal is to the floor it pushes the fingers in about 3/8"ish. The clutch won't slip in the slightest. The clutch kit was for a 81ish f150 I6 I think. Don't really want to pull the drivetrain back out of this thing!! Thanks.

gwunter · Jul 7, 2015

Upon further review it only moves 1/8-3/16" sorry for the bad original number.

TurboM700 · Jul 7, 2015

That should be enough, and yes you can put them in backwards but you usally can't get the bolts started in the pressure plate.

I assume you have tried driving it that's how you know it won't disengage. Does the transmission shift fine? Just want to make sure it's not locked in two gears or something weird like that.

78f100 · Jul 7, 2015

Do you have a adjustible linkage on the pedal to mc? You may not be getting enough travel in the Mc plunger to fully push the slave cyl.

gwunter · Jul 7, 2015

Yes I tried driving it and that's how I found out the clutch wasn't disengaging properly. According to some research, I put the disc in backwards. These types of mistakes really hurt as I am doing 99% of the work myself......solo. tomorrow is a new day.

The Mc is non adjustable for throw. One stroke fits all. I'll get this pounded out tomorrow night.

I looked at an identical tranny tonight and it moves the fingures about 1/2-3/4". My trans seems to shift fine. Thanks all