6.0.4 revisited

Cutting-Edge Diesel · Sep 6, 2012

Or just cut the end off your 6.0 pipes is another option. You can use the flange the bolts go threw as well. Just another option.

genuineford · Sep 6, 2012

An exhaust shop can flare the ends of the pipe for you. I have been there and done that. It should cost you about $10 if you have the pipe.

TheReelMuhcoy · Sep 6, 2012

The best exhaust shop I have around here is a Meinake, think they got the stuff? Its funny I shot a txt to my buddy who would be helping me out with the fab work who said "you cant just flare the pipe...."

I was originally thinking cut 6.0 up pipes off and weld to 6.4 pipes but I thought there would be a easy way to flare the end for it to fit the 6.0 manifold.

TheReelMuhcoy · Sep 6, 2012

Just another note to put this into perspective... I am also going to be doing all of this cab on, engine in. Makes cutting up pipes to proper length a bit tricky, thinking 6.4 manifolds are the temporary answer to get the project rolling.

Wayne · Sep 6, 2012

studs being installed cab down too? Sounds like too much fun for me:jawdrop: If you're building your own up pipes, you should consider building them on the mock-up engine you plan on so they can be built and ready prior to installation.

Apcdiesel · Sep 7, 2012

Is there going to be a clearance issure with the 6.0 thermostat housing on the front cover and the location of high pressure turbocharger outlet (where the intercooler pipe on the 6.4 connects)

genuineford · Sep 7, 2012

TheReelMuhcoy said:
The best exhaust shop I have around here is a Meinake, think they got the stuff? Its funny I shot a txt to my buddy who would be helping me out with the fab work who said "you cant just flare the pipe...."

I was originally thinking cut 6.0 up pipes off and weld to 6.4 pipes but I thought there would be a easy way to flare the end for it to fit the 6.0 manifold.

I don't know if Meinake can do that or not but if they do custom exhaust jobs they should. Most exhaust places have tubing bender with an attachment for making the different flares for the ends of the pipe. Here is a picture of some ends that I flared to make a set of up pipes for my 7.3 once upon a time.

TheReelMuhcoy · Sep 7, 2012

Turns out there is a local private shop who has a tube bender who should be able to do the job. Other wise I am thinking of doing a sleeved joint and tacking it till i am sure of the length, then fully weld it when ready. I would at least do this for the drivers side. The passenger side may be a bit easier as I think I can use the EGR replacement up pipe I have to "adapt" might be easier than the drivers side at least.

Apcdiesel said:
Is there going to be a clearance issure with the 6.0 thermostat housing on the front cover and the location of high pressure turbocharger outlet (where the intercooler pipe on the 6.4 connects)

I am looking at pic's to try to follow you here, are you referring to right next to the upper fuel filter? That is roughly where the output of the high pressure turbo is. it may be a tight squeeze there but I cannot tell for sure till I get the turbo's sitting in there. I do foresee using v-band assemblies right on the turbo since, I had a huge issue not that long ago with boots blowing off every time I hit 15psi. Considering that these turbo's will can make upwards of 50psi I see boots being a major weakness, and I hate driving 500ft before i have to pull over to re-attach boots.

TheReelMuhcoy · Sep 7, 2012

As I was bolting all the stuff together I noticed that the flanges for the manifolds are in different positions front to rear (see images with tape measure). Do the 6.0 manifolds follow the same sort of off set?

Wayne · Sep 7, 2012

well, the 6.4 manifolds should directly bolt on, and give you the exact offset you need, but that's the difference of how much further forward the exhaust ports are from right to left. The 6.0 manifolds handle this mostly by having a longer passenger side manifold.

TheReelMuhcoy · Sep 7, 2012

So if the passenger side manifold is longer, then the straight section before the 90* MIGHT line up properly? If this is the case i think i'll be able to pull off doing cab on up pipes, wont be easy but it will be do-able.

Pizza pig · Sep 7, 2012

yup, you could cut and shorten the 6.4 manifolds up by the flange as well and bring the offset in so you can cut and weld the lower portion of the 6.0 manifold onto the 6.4 pipe, but thats a maybe as I havent physically compared them side by side. But honestly if youre doing all that fab work, just buy the material and make a set of up pipes to fit the 6.0 manifolds. I should have a mock motor this weekend bud, you're more than welcome to come on up here and figure this stuff out without the cab being in the way. My buddy is a welder by trade and it pretty good at fab work, I can se if he's willing to help out as well.

TheReelMuhcoy · Sep 7, 2012

Greg,
I might have to take you up on that offer... i will be in Brewster NY the week of the 27th... I could even bring my piece of turd welder and just tack the stuff in place and bring it back to my buddy to weld up. Will this mock motor have intake and exhaust manifolds on it?

Pizza pig · Sep 7, 2012

yes it will, thats a stones throw away right over the border. Im leaving the 28th for maryland but ill be around anytime during that week.

TheReelMuhcoy · Sep 7, 2012

I am trying to put together my shopping list for intake piping. What is everyones thoughts? I was originally planning on aluminum for heat transfer. I know the big brands are using stainless, I never thought to check what stock pipes are but i dont think they're stainless or aluminum, maybe aluminized steel?

strokin6L · Sep 8, 2012

stock up-pipes are stainless...i'd stick with stainless.

TheReelMuhcoy · Sep 10, 2012

Anyone have a good reason why not to use 16 gauge aluminum tube?

windrunner408 · Sep 10, 2012

I do. How about the fact that if the tubes see over 1300F on the EGTs they will stand a huge possibility of melting??

Unless I missed something here (I did go back and re-read just to be sure), it appears that you are looking for aluminum up-pipes vice stainless ones right??

Stainless Steel will DEFINITELY be able to handle the heat better. JMO of course.