All I got to say..

[co04cobra]

That s h i t will buff out.LOL



You just made a hell of a nice paper weight.

 

[fatsix]

I don't see any issues, the rod bolts look fine to me.

 

[Viking]

I don't see anything, those pics aren't working for me.

 

[Magnum PD]

Seeing those pics makes me feel uneasy building my motor with forged rods.

 

[PowerstrokeJunkie]

Definitely too much silicone

 

[OSCS]

Folded that piston like a dollar bill..

 

[Marty]

I don't see any folded pistons but I see folded rods and piston cooling jets.

 

[Groomzybanshee]

:whs:

 

[MadDiesel73]

may need this

:joy::joy::joy::joy::joy::thumbsup:

 

[OSCS]

I don't see any folded pistons but I see folded rods and piston cooling jets.

Meant to say connecting rod

 

[Magnum PD]

Just figure out why it blew up just crusing down the road.

 

[Viking]

the pics work now.....WOW!

 

[MadDiesel73]

Just figure out why it blew up just crusing down the road.

Thats what i would love to know

 

[Viking]

Just to cover all bases, your truck didn't inhale some pixie dust from a prius and sneeze did it?

 

[Magnum PD]

Pistons didn't freeze in the cylinders did they? Wonder if a cooling jet came out and caused the problem.

 

[JLDickmon]

looks like the 351 Cleveland outta my Ranchero..

 

[907DAVE]

Thats how the majority of these engines fail, light load situations.

Here's mine, just lightly accelerating (cold engine) and around 20 mph....

My situation was very similar to yours. 238/100 and twins, only difference was mine lasted about a year. Those rods were polished, peened and heat treated before they went in.

 

[ParkerFly]

Thats how the majority of these engines fail, light load situations.

That's what I was thinking. Seems like most of the time you hear of one blowing up the person was just cruising down the road.

 

[golfer]

back in '03 when I pitched a forged rod...it let go just tooling home at @ 30mph.

That engine had done 680rwhp on polished, peened and weight matched forged rods.

what typically happens is that the rod deforms, gets a little shorter...which allows the piston to come down "lower" in the bore than it would otherwise...which knocks off the piston oil cooling jets...

and evvvvvery forged rod that I've seen go...is always at the exact same point as those pictured here.

we wouldn't build a 450rwhp engine with forged rods...just too risky...there's a big difference in tossing 10g's worth of hot rod parts at a perfectly good forged rod engine...and going out and making 650+hp...but to spend all the time & money to BUILD an engine for that kind of power...without doing billet rods is reckless.

 

[Charles]

Just figure out why it blew up just crusing down the road.

Because 99.9999999999999% of the time that engine is running, it's not at WOT.


The chances of catastrophically breaking the engine are extremely low whenever the state of tune is even CLOSE to what the engine can handle.

If you're close on the setup, then you will be deflecting the rods, mains, block, heads and all else to points somewhere south of their yield strength (the point where the deflection doesn't come back to it's original shape when the load is removed). When it comes to connecting rods being pushed hard, you will be riiiiiight at the yield strength all the time when you're pushing on the engine. If you slip over it a bit, it's still not the end of the world. The rod bends a little, and in fact, I bet a ton of stock rodded engines have permanently deflected rods in them that were pushed beyond their yield previously, but that are still hanging in there fine.

The problem comes when the inertial loads try to straighten the rod back by accelerating the piston/pin/rings back down the bore over and over. This is where any fracture that may have happened when the rod was deformed past the yield strength will begin to grow. As the rod continues swinging around the crack will grow and grow and grow and grow. For a LONG, LONG time under most circumstances. In this case whenever you finally get that crack large enough the end of the rod finally plinks off and all hell breaks loose.

If the tune is close..... and a rod fails, then rest assured that the rod was fatally wounded a LONG.... LONG.... time before then. Depending on driving habbits, it could be days, weeks, months or even years...

A rod bent beyond yield in a 700hp engine could conceivably be put back to stock power and if the rpm were kept relatively low, it could run for years after being fatally wounded.

In fact.... the chances of putting an engine back together with rods that are already fractured is probably very high unless they are magnafluxed beforehand.