Bad ipr or hpop?
- Thread starter Brad.S.19
- Start date
ghohouston
Active member
i dont give it long at all haha. i give him sooo much **** for depleting the stock of good compression forged rod engines across the u.s. he needs to pony up and build a motor. it sucks, because i just know i wont be back home to ride in it before he blows this one up. last time i rode in it, he was having idm and injector issues, and stil had the 75mm turbo on it, and even then, it made some scary power. the damn tune we rode in kept the converter locked the whole time. it was insane.
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ghohouston
Active member
dentexpowerstroke
To start off today's response ty and jake honestly, I understand what tarm is saying it is a complicated mess of tracing issues right now. Hell I am new, young and still learning but my God at least I do not wish to make my truck the biggest coal roalin oraler that represents the worshiping of exhaust gasses and byproducts of combustion. I actually know a thing or two I have very poor written word but excel in spoken word so honestly back off some right now please.
Now to the meat and potatoes I was able to acquire Ford IDS through a family member just waiting on a cable now, Schaeffers local dealer sucks so I have to order bulk $375 orders directly, oil leak unknown need oil dye, trans oil leak somewhere need dye and 2 weak injectors #8 and #3.
As it stands right now I am just going to use valvoline/mobil products to work all the kinks out until I have the cash to purchase schaeffers. If a sponsor sells it and can give me a better deal that would be great I do not wish to pay freight and all. Basically all the issues I am finding are the definition of hack job repairs that appear over time. This has become a basket case of issues over lapping one another fix one thing another arises I have dumped IDK 1400 on top of the 9k then I do not have patience for some of the bull sh*t that keeps popping up. I am looking at another 5k in minimal repairs Thank God there is no major rust only minor surface that needs attention Time is a major factor now I have ten weeks to get the money and get it done along with everything else.
-injectors, harness, glow plugs, IPR, HPOP and lines
-Lift pump, tunes, exhaust, turbo stuff, manifolds, EBPS and tube
-Redhead box, p/s pump, track bar, front springs(x-codes), shocks, wheels tires, brake lines and flush.
-fluids, grease, filters, added filters, flush, gauges, electrical repairs and all the other f**king sh*t I have to repair from the hack jobs. Probably other stuff to a lot needs to be done but hell I wish I was being paid to do this.
It is at the point of no return for money and time to make some MAD POWAHHHHHHHH FOOLS!!!!!! Or I could dicker for a fix leaker:thumbsup:LOLLOL
Now to the meat and potatoes I was able to acquire Ford IDS through a family member just waiting on a cable now, Schaeffers local dealer sucks so I have to order bulk $375 orders directly, oil leak unknown need oil dye, trans oil leak somewhere need dye and 2 weak injectors #8 and #3.
As it stands right now I am just going to use valvoline/mobil products to work all the kinks out until I have the cash to purchase schaeffers. If a sponsor sells it and can give me a better deal that would be great I do not wish to pay freight and all. Basically all the issues I am finding are the definition of hack job repairs that appear over time. This has become a basket case of issues over lapping one another fix one thing another arises I have dumped IDK 1400 on top of the 9k then I do not have patience for some of the bull sh*t that keeps popping up. I am looking at another 5k in minimal repairs Thank God there is no major rust only minor surface that needs attention Time is a major factor now I have ten weeks to get the money and get it done along with everything else.
-injectors, harness, glow plugs, IPR, HPOP and lines
-Lift pump, tunes, exhaust, turbo stuff, manifolds, EBPS and tube
-Redhead box, p/s pump, track bar, front springs(x-codes), shocks, wheels tires, brake lines and flush.
-fluids, grease, filters, added filters, flush, gauges, electrical repairs and all the other f**king sh*t I have to repair from the hack jobs. Probably other stuff to a lot needs to be done but hell I wish I was being paid to do this.
It is at the point of no return for money and time to make some MAD POWAHHHHHHHH FOOLS!!!!!! Or I could dicker for a fix leaker:thumbsup:LOLLOL
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lincolnlocker
Well-known member
sorry if you thought I was being that way but I was by no means trying to be. can you point out where you thought I was being a coksucker?
live life full throttle
live life full throttle
I was just pissed atm buddy it seems every other day something happens and I kinda took it out on you guys sorry taken that part out.
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
My hpop is weak running 1300-1600ICP @ 65MPH 1650 AVG/RPM pretty level when I floor it up a hill 2400-2600ICP @ 40% short burst and long grade 6% floored all out 2500-2750ish ICP at 45-50% about 1:15 long duration maxed out 85/MPH to follow that up it took a while(3-5 secs) to build ICP when starting when warm 445-485@ idle. The IPR is fine was lacking enough fuel to air either to much fuel not enough air or vise versa? #3 and #8 injectors are weak lacking pressure when cold sound was quieter when buzz tested cold just worn out. As for the oil filter issue I literally have to let it sit for a few hours in a warm place with fresh oil soaking the gasket pre swelling it and putting it finger tight to prevent the issues I have had before.
PMS= Powerstroke Malady Syndrome so yes to many issues not enough time or money.
oke:LOL
Arisley
Moderator
You need to take it one step at a time.
1. Find and fix leaks.
2. Find and fix wiring issues.
3. If you need injectors, decide on injectors. No use trying to make mad power on a 7.3, it takes mad money. 400 HP is a blast.
4. At the same time you do injectors, do the turbo that they will need. Tunes that they will need. Oil that they will need. Fuel system that they will need.
One step at a time and it will get done.
1. Find and fix leaks.
2. Find and fix wiring issues.
3. If you need injectors, decide on injectors. No use trying to make mad power on a 7.3, it takes mad money. 400 HP is a blast.
4. At the same time you do injectors, do the turbo that they will need. Tunes that they will need. Oil that they will need. Fuel system that they will need.
One step at a time and it will get done.
10-4
The wiring is a F**KING rats nest of a nightmare I personally am not a fan of splicing into wires that I have no idea what they are. I have had issues connecting to my PCM with the engine off because the PCM/obd2 power line was spliced for a ford trailer brake controller and improperly grounded. The CB power and a scanner was connected into the HVAC and interior lighting power/relay using duct tape, electrical tape and spade clips under the dash. For under the hood some warning lights or strobe lights must have been installed spliced into the starter relay and somewhere else not sure yet using wire that was on special at home depot or something lots of electrical tape used also. The wiring near and around the HPO reservoir, fuel bowl and turbo is jacked up spliced again with tons of tape with some crimp clips I am not sure what this wiring goes to yet. It is on the right bank in the frontal region if that helps any in a location that I cannot get pics. From all the poorly grounded splices and incorrect execution I am having a "leech" in a way my second battery is losing power overnight still cannot find the cause. I still have three open spots for adding relays two in the main and one aux location.
For oil dye I called a few places today and nobody had a clue what I was talking about I know most shops use it and then apply a UV light the pin point the leaks origin. I have an idea of where it is but cannot locate it because dirt keeps caking everything up lately GD road construction. I just want to take brake cleaner to the entire bay now make it look fresh then add it to really get it done quicker.
I am going to fix what is broken right now which is mostly hack job stuff that is terrible to trace and repair I wish I could buy a new harness but the cost out weighs the benefit. As for the manifolds and the EBPS/tube is going to suck the amount of corrosion is making me not fix the sensor the mani might break when I go to remove the tube to clean it out. I want to replace them but I do not think it is possible with the tools I have unless someone chimes in with a miracle way how to, the heads to the bolts are almost non-existent and on the manifolds I can pull flakes of rust of by lightly touching it.
I am still having sludge from the oil cooler failure 8 engine flushes now and 7 cooling flushes and still it is playing tricky ricky.
Why not look for a salvage yard pulled harness. Even if you had to have it pulled for you and shipped it would still be pennies on the dollar in terms of cost. The upper engine harness cost me less than $100. I am with you on how much its FUBAR when the harness has been cut up or chewed up and trying to get it right. Lots of headache but if you can actually see all the points such as what you stated if might not be that bad. The bad stuff is when rats or mice chew things behind the dash or people chop up the harness all over the place for some unknown reason and there is no added gear to understand why or what they did.
I would at least price out a used harness or ask on here if you have not done so already. These trucks have nice harnesses that when complete go in fairly easy especially true of the ones under the hood.
I would at least price out a used harness or ask on here if you have not done so already. These trucks have nice harnesses that when complete go in fairly easy especially true of the ones under the hood.
I know all the wiring was the previous owner had either removed the items or the dealer did but who knows. I am a perfectionist and very detail oriented on stuff like this especially wiring. I called the two local salvage yards they have sd v-10(unknown years), 99, 02, 03 7.3 e series(ambulance), 03 6.0 sd and 5.4 3v and 4v for the dash and upper engine harnesses not sure what will work. I plan on adding a scanner, CB, 30" BAJA Designs LED light bar , HID's air compressor, Invertor, sound system, Odyssey single conversion and 2 Light Force HID 210's at some point over time I have three open spots to add relays not sure on the capacity they can handle. I have other stuff to repair first but if I can kill two birds with one stone and not have to do something or spend money twice it would be great. The truck is a very good condition(said that to many timesLOLLOL) it is a blank canvas stock still need to check for PMR's keep meaning to do where it has issues and O.E parts I can upgrade them to better ones to suit my preference.
On another note I got some fuel yesterday at a station that I have been to before a few times have gotten 25-40 bucks no issues filled it with 23 gallons yesterday. I drove 55 miles home just horrible way under powered running poor today is 75* 40% humidity even worse very laggy, smells different at idle , haze at start up and reduced power compared to the irving That I use up here just seems like crap fuel to me. Not sure if I should add something to it or not if so what?
Was it a "Lukoil" by chance?
(^Never get fuel there.)
I always fill up at Irving. Never (knock on wood) got bad fuel there.
NOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Irving In North Hampton,NH on RT.1 I will never get fuel at some mom n pop places, cumbys, gibbs and citgo in gng. Sometimes when I am in Kenebunkport I will get it at the rest stop because it has been a lot less than where I live which is(3.90-3.95) 3.99 all the time I paid 3.85/gal in NH.
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
fuel like that puts a damper on everything too.. try draining the h2o/fuel separator and adding a treatment of fuel conditioner along with a quart of good ole type f atf from walmart. might bring some life back into the fuel.. or just add a couple quart of the type f.
Thanks buddy did the trick(6 oz.) and I have a exhaust leak particularly the "ticking" is the culprit on the passenger manifold gasket. If i do the repair I will need to replace the manifold I also have the exhaust pressure sensor that is bad with a clogged tube still. Honestly how long can I hold this repair out for and will engine damage result? The up pipes are fine but they are stockers.
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
prolly run forever. mileage might suffer but thats bout it..
Alright then, I will wait till it gets to the extreme annoyance then or it gets worse.
Arisley
Moderator
Dennis at Strictly Diesel sells this to fix you EBP issue. Works awesome.
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