madman1234509
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How much more work is it to do an after market stage 1 cam while the heads are off for a head gasket job
cam
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O2ShootTheJ
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Are there really any big benefits to throwing in a cam?
Dieselcraft
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Per manual your suppose to pull crank to remove cam.
Iv heard but never have done remove crank ballancer and it will let you pull crank whith no problems
I always pull engine and put engine on rotecery stand and remove front and rear covers and remove bedplate heads up litters blah blah
I put bedplate on
Only install 2 bolts up front
And drop crank enough to remove crank out rear
Works like a charm.
Iv heard but never have done remove crank ballancer and it will let you pull crank whith no problems
I always pull engine and put engine on rotecery stand and remove front and rear covers and remove bedplate heads up litters blah blah
I put bedplate on
Only install 2 bolts up front
And drop crank enough to remove crank out rear
Works like a charm.
blk350on20s
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Pretty sure the cam comes out of the back of the engine
Dieselcraft
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If you remove crank balancer.
It says do not remove. Never
I have never done it but Iv heard story's.
White_monster
Active member
It does. Cab has to be off. Pull the rear crank flange but mark where it sits before. Lift the lifters and pull the cam. Reinstall the crank flange and use a dial indicator to center the flange and use me bolts, the bolts are the same as the harmonic balancer bolts as the bolts for the flange aren't actually listed.
The book says to drop the crank thou and requires a special tool for timing everything.
The book says to drop the crank thou and requires a special tool for timing everything.
Dieselcraft
New member
Timing is easy cam and crank dowl half to be straight up and down. And Cyl tdc
Don't half to pull cab.
I had engine sitting on jack stands in 5 hrs
Don't half to pull cab.
I had engine sitting on jack stands in 5 hrs
Last edited:
White_monster
Active member
Love how you lifted the cab a bit in that pic. Also you can change the cam in frame but for that the cab has to be lifted to clear the floor of the cab.
Dieselcraft
New member
Yea lol I remove cab bolts and split steering linkage. Lift cab 6inches.
madman1234509
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..... is it worth it while my heads are off and cab is up? Just looking to see if there is anything else I should do. Im not going to do valve springs or push rods until I lift the cab again to put turbos on, and even then ill still get valve springs that I dont require machining the heads. Already going to swap fuel rails with rudys, even though there isnt much evidence of them making a difference. Gonna take a look at the intake manifold and either possibly mod the stock one or make a custom one. I have 6.0 manifolds but am not going to put them on or do up pipes till I do turbos.. Another other ideas or opinions that are worth while while its apart.
White_monster
Active member
Cams cheap but valve train should go with it IMO.
Spatel23
Moderator
other things Id spend the money and time on first....such as valvetrain, pushrods, intake manifold. Youre on the right track, just need to put it in a different order.
White_monster
Active member
Except pulling the engine apart twice sucks. I'm with you thou Shone.
Breaking Habits
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We do offer the package with the cam and valvesprings that require no maching FWIW.
Jared
Jared
Erikclaw
Active member
I would go with making it reliable and able to handle what ever power upgrades you are planning on doing. Building it to have a breakdown due to a weaker stock part would suck.
Breaking Habits
New member
Yeah, extra stuff is always nice. But build it right so it doesnt break on you!
madman1234509
New member
I see. Well when I do a custom turbo set up the cab will be off again and I guess Ill debate on the cam sitation then. There are plenty of people making Big power on a stock cam, more power then I doubt Ill ever have. Next time Ill definetely do springs and pushrods since there are springs available that dont require machining so I dont have to pull the heads. Here is whats going on while the cabs off, if anyone has anymore suggestions on modifications or reliability factors feel free to post:
arp studs
oem gaskets
custom 4" dp
50mm waste gate plumed into dp
custom CAC pipe
custom intake elbow
ported rails from rudys
water pump is going to be opened up just to check it for cavitation (truck has 96xxx miles)
I dont have a lift pump, and plan on doing a custom set up with a few walbro pumps, a 5 gal. fuel cell, fuel bowl delete, and fuel cooler deleted and one put on the frame in the near future to finish off the low pressure system. So hopefully fuel rail pressure will be ok for the time being with ported rails.
arp studs
oem gaskets
custom 4" dp
50mm waste gate plumed into dp
custom CAC pipe
custom intake elbow
ported rails from rudys
water pump is going to be opened up just to check it for cavitation (truck has 96xxx miles)
I dont have a lift pump, and plan on doing a custom set up with a few walbro pumps, a 5 gal. fuel cell, fuel bowl delete, and fuel cooler deleted and one put on the frame in the near future to finish off the low pressure system. So hopefully fuel rail pressure will be ok for the time being with ported rails.
Spatel23
Moderator
thats a pretty big gate...any reason why you are going with a 50mm?
madman1234509
New member
Eh, my buddy did the same set up and he hasnt had any problems with it. It was just readily available at the time I bought it. I was going to use the 50mm in the future on a custom big twin set up to regulate total boost, and was thinking of doing like twin 40s ( one on each up pipe) to regulate exhaust around the small charger. Just seemed neat on paper. But now im seeing more people say sometimes gating around the small charger isnt really needed so I dont know. Probably overkill
