cam

bigrpowr · Dec 27, 2011

my truck drove awesome with a stage 1 cam ... curve was flat as a board, and much further out in the rpm range.

madman1234509 · Dec 27, 2011

Which method did they use to install your cam? I assume the dropped the crank?

bigrpowr · Dec 27, 2011

madman1234509 said:
Which method did they use to install your cam? I assume the dropped the crank?

motor was out.

Erikclaw · Dec 28, 2011

I run the same cam. Not sure if you saw the graphs posted, but my hp curve is flat and long. Don't know if it is a result of the cam, but I am sure it helped along with the other thingies.

Breaking Habits · Dec 28, 2011

bigrpowr said:
my truck drove awesome with a stage 1 cam ... curve was flat as a board, and much further out in the rpm range.

Erikclaw said:
I run the same cam. Not sure if you saw the graphs posted, but my hp curve is flat and long. Don't know if it is a result of the cam, but I am sure it helped along with the other thingies.

Same here.. Our 6.4 cam in my truck made it awesome on the street. Perfectly smooth curve. I'd have to dig out my dyno sheets from randalls but it was smooth as glass! I'd recommend it.

Jared

madman1234509 · Dec 28, 2011

Ugh I want to.... Im just not sure if tearing down the motor that far just for that is going to be worth it... Im going to have the cab up, heads off... Heads machined and fluxed, who knows theyll probably be cracked anyway.

How much more work is it, how many more parts am I going to have to buy from ford that I have to replaced like I had to buy to do the head gasket job ( different gaskets ect). The water pump cover is going to be taken off to check for cavitation also, and if thats bad the timing cover will be coming off and getting replaced. What more am I looking at for cost of parts and how much time in extra labor is it? Getting labor for about 50$ an hour

White_monster · Dec 28, 2011

Well the trans has to come out. The flex plate is removed. Rear cover removed and then you either lower the crank or pull the flange off the back of the crank. So you'll need a few gaskets/seals, new flex plate hardware, a new rear main seal and that should do it. Then once the came is out, oh you'll pull the lifters and mark which hole they came from too, you take it to someone and press the cam gear off the cam and onto the new cam. Then put the other parts back on. Don't believe me about pulling the rear cover or the trans? Here's a pic to show you.

Last picture is a bit grainy but that's after the rear cover is pulled.

Thanks to Erik for the first pic.

Erikclaw · Dec 28, 2011

Haha, never noticed till you said that.

madman1234509 · Dec 28, 2011

Could you leave the motor in the frame with the cab off and just move the tranny out of the way? How many extra hours past a head gasket job do you think this would be? Also what "special" tools are needed?

White_monster · Dec 28, 2011

Yes the engine can stay in. Trans needs to come out or at least be lowered done. Pull the flex plate. Pull the rear cover. Pull the rear crank flange. Pull the retainer for the cam and remove the cam. I bet if cabs up it will add another 8hrs of work maybe more. You'll need a dial indicator and mag base. Also the rear bolts need to be replaced, as far as I know they are the same as te front pulley bolts, the flex plate bolts are changed too. It's not a couple hour job to do this, setting everything back up takes time. Also checking clearences is slow and. Reds to be do e with care and precision.

madman1234509 · Dec 28, 2011

What do you mean by clearances? Piston to valve clearances? Can you get me some specs if needed, or where could i find them? Also what about specs for cam timing?

White_monster · Dec 28, 2011

Go read the service manual bud. If your gonna get into an engine you should have one. As far as what clearences I mean, try camshaft end play for starters. I'm not gonna give you all the specs, sorry but I don't have time to look every torque and clearance spec up so you can save a buck or some time on your end. I've told you multiple times what is needed to install a cam. Don't believe me call Eite, RCD, Rudy's and see what they say. Timing specs, read the manual it will tell you everything you need to know. Not trying to be a dick but quit freeloading off of the guys that have spent the money on manuals and tooling. The manual is worth it's weight in gold.

Dieselcraft · Dec 28, 2011

White_monster said:
Yes the engine can stay in. Trans needs to come out or at least be lowered done. Pull the flex plate. Pull the rear cover. Pull the rear crank flange. Pull the retainer for the cam and remove the cam. I bet if cabs up it will add another 8hrs of work maybe more. You'll need a dial indicator and mag base. Also the rear bolts need to be replaced, as far as I know they are the same as te front pulley bolts, the flex plate bolts are changed too. It's not a couple hour job to do this, setting everything back up takes time. Also checking clearences is slow and. Reds to be do e with care and precision.

yes sir.
white monster knows his SH_T

madman1234509 · Dec 28, 2011

Do you see me questioning anything youre saying? Im just trying to get some info from you guys that have done it and if its worth the time to do it while the truck is apart. If specs were in the service manual.... thats all you had to say. Its hardly free loading and this thread is in no way about trying to save a buck. Ive been very appreciative of your info in this thread and in past messages that weve sent back and forth. Ive never torn into a diesel motor, and the guy that helps me has done plenty of diesels but never a 6.0 or 6.4 and mostly newer cummins. Thought this was turning into a pretty informative thread for a few minutes. Never the less thanks for the info.

Dieselcraft · Dec 29, 2011

Specs?
Wsm= work shop manual
I have spec lol but I do this sh_t every day. I can build a 6.4 in my sleep
Iv got two bare blocks to build

When I built my quad I had to spend 100 on a book
Could find no specs

This website has tons of knowledge and resources

Just don't take advantage of it

White_monster · Dec 29, 2011

Well you need the manual to say the least. It's very hard to explain each step without the other person knowing the basic steps. Pick the manual up and if you have more questions I'm more than happy to answer them. As far as the cam being worth while. I say it is. It does require some extra work thou but it's all in the sake of power.