Humor me

[Mwilbur516]

Yes, stock TTY bolts currently.

I have the Oasis on the truck. That's how I knew the work had been done. EGR blew at 72k, HG replaced at 77k. Only showed 23.3 labor hours on the job. Only stated that the HG were replaced.

Heads weren't machined. Id bet good money on it. If it isn't puking or showing signs of failure, Id bet more good money your heads are good. Probably have a few cracked valve seats, but most of these heads do. Send a coolant sample and oil sample to Blackstone labs. Both will cost you less than $70. If the oil comes back with nothing but oil and the coolant comes backwwith nothing but coolant in them, you're 99% certain that they're ok.

Sent from my BNTV400 using Tapatalk

 

[6speedsd]

Ok, so if I do that, and the lab results are good, "technically" could I pull the heads, prep the block, install studs, and reinstall the heads without having them worked over?

 

[Cory@RPHC]

Why wouldn't you leave heads on and do a stud at a time? That way whatever seal you have it stays

 

[6speedsd]

Why wouldn't you leave heads on and do a stud at a time? That way whatever seal you have it stays

Heard too many stories about people doing that, only to have it actually blow very shortly after.

 

[Mwilbur516]

Ok, so if I do that, and the lab results are good, "technically" could I pull the heads, prep the block, install studs, and reinstall the heads without having them worked over?

NO!!! Always, I repeat, ALWAYS have the heads checked when they come off. Cheap insurance.

Sent from my BNTV400 using Tapatalk

 

[6speedsd]

LOL Roger that boss. Thanks for the info.

 

[Mwilbur516]

Why wouldn't you leave heads on and do a stud at a time? That way whatever seal you have it stays

I agree.

Heard too many stories about people doing that, only to have it actually blow very shortly after.

Ok, there is no reason, if one TTY bolt is pulled at a time and replaced by a stud, in the correct order and the proper lube and torque applied in the correct steps, that you should have a problem losing your seal. The guys that are pulling and replacing then having problems either A) already had problems, B ) didn't pull and replacevin the correct sequence, C) didn't torque to the correct value in the correct steps or, D) All of the above.

Id be willing to try the one per one if I were you and the tests came back good. I've seen it done succesfully serveral times.


Sent from my BNTV400 using Tapatalk

 

[6speedsd]

Ok, when torquing studs, I know you do so in increments. Would you be safe doing it this way... just torquing the first stud to the first increment, until you have them all swapped out, then following up with the remaining sequences on all of them?

I know by even talking about doing the one at a time method on here will soon bring out all the bashers of this method... just a matter of time I guess. I don't know... that's why I'm asking. I've heard both sides of the arguement... some say do it, others say don't. Not looking to turn this into an arguement about why you should or should not do it this way.

 

[6speedsd]

Side note... I saw on BulletProof Diesel's website where they used a rubber cork (to plug the degas tank) with a hose ran to a bottle of water to test HG and EGR coolers. Does this method actually work?

 

[Mwilbur516]

Ok, when torquing studs, I know you do so in increments. Would you be safe doing it this way... just torquing the first stud to the first increment, until you have them all swapped out, then following up with the remaining sequences on all of them?

You would need to pull a bolt, install a stud and torque through the increments required to your final torque value before moving on to the next one. This insures that the head doesn't lift like it could if you only had 20lbs-ft on each stud. It might be fine, but I'd do it one at a time. Remove, replace, re torque to final spec, then move on. I would be inclined to allow it to sit 24hrs and re torque just to be sure. That's JMO though.


Sent while driving, drinking coffee and threatening to kill people in traffic.

 

[Mwilbur516]

Side note... I saw on BulletProof Diesel's website where they used a rubber cork (to plug the degas tank) with a hose ran to a bottle of water to test HG and EGR coolers. Does this method actually work?

The guys at BulletProof know their sh*t. I don't think I've ever seen that, but if those guys have it up, it's legit.

I've seen a pressure gauge tapped into the Degas bottle confirming out of spec coolant system pressures under different conditions, thus determining head/head gasket issues.


Sent while driving, drinking coffee and threatening to kill people in traffic.

 

[Dave]

Its not foolproof but the cork method works 99% of the time. As to your machining question any machime shop should be able to you if the heads have been milled

Sent from my SCH-I925 using Tapatalk

 

[Rob D]

I am pretty sure Greg at MPD did the one stud ad a time method and is still running the same original OEM gasket...not to say it works for everyone, but if you have the means and methods of doing it yourself - worst case scenario is they fail and you need to do a full HG job which your in line for either way if you want to do studs. All that would be lost is your time in the attempt.

 

[ramonpowerstroker]

Just a heads up OP.. I paid 200 to get my heads milled, mangafluxed, and ported... This shop was a very reputable shop that we always took our heads to.. So to you 900 is way to much

 

[06_Whitebull]

OP....this is what I got back from the builder. If you want to ask him specifics he is Gearhead2012 on the org.

If you were going to do studs one at a time (which I wouldn’t recommend) then it’d be hard to tell. You can compare the total head thickness to the OEM spec for minimum thickness, but measuring them accurately on the truck would be very difficult. If you pull the heads off while doing the studs anyway, you could more accurately measure the total head thickness.

If the concern is valve recession, you’ll want to be deeper than about .020” or so…if you resurface them without doing other valve job work you effectively move the rocker arm closer to the lifter, thereby increasing lifter preload, and increasing the likelihood of piston to valve contact. These engines left the factory with too much lifter preload to begin with; the safest option is always a rebuild.

If you’re doing all the machine work you can safely mill upwards of .008”-.010” off. If you just mill them with valves in place I wouldn’t resurface more than a couple of thousandths off, and even then, only if valve recession stays above .020” or so.​

With my vast knowledge... LOL ...are you going to be upgrading injectors, the turbo, or running a hot/race tune? If not, disregard the above and you could do the 1 stud at a time, following proper torque specs and sequence. You can always talk to the tuners (I see you're running one from IDP) about what you have done and what you want and they can write the tune as best they can to keep things together. Then, you can save some money while having fun for when the, IMO, inevitable happens, blow gaskets and have to pull heads. Studs can be reused as long as you don't over torque them the first time. Not bashing by any means, just my experience: Stock everything, bolt safe tune, race a Camaro and BAM, PUUUUKE...and $900....run! I had my spare heads cleaned, fluxed, pressure checked, and milled .003 for $260.

If you are so inclined, here is some light reading about machining 6.0 heads he wrote, lots o pics...

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/general-6-0l-discussion/229120-how-machine-6-0-a.html

Best of luck with whatever route you go...:blitzed:

 

[6speedsd]

I am pretty sure Greg at MPD did the one stud ad a time method and is still running the same original OEM gasket...not to say it works for everyone, but if you have the means and methods of doing it yourself - worst case scenario is they fail and you need to do a full HG job which your in line for either way if you want to do studs. All that would be lost is your time in the attempt.

This was my way of thinking. My time is free...if it fails it fails. All
I'm out is time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[6speedsd]

This is a cclwb dually. It's not a race truck. Its a dd and a tow pig. I'm running Eric's Aggstreet tune, and honestly don't expect to go any bigger than maybe his Xstreet. Never really plan on going with bigger sticks, or more air. Just making the ole girl reliable. The Xstreet tune is plenty big to have fun when needed for me. If I want a toy, I'll find a different truck. Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[6speedsd]

Life would be a lot easier on me if there was a decent machine shop locally!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mwilbur516]

Life would be a lot easier on me if there was a decent machine shop locally!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

After reading your posts, you seem to be the perfect candidate for the "one for one" method. Just do it right and take your time. It won't be an less reliable with the studs installed in this method.


Sent while driving, drinking coffee and threatening to kill people in traffic.

 

[06_Whitebull]

You're next door to Memphis. There's gotta be a shop there that's not $$$$$.