Humor me

[6speedsd]

You'd think so, but I have yet to find one. Like I said, there used to be several, but those are all long gone. If there is a good one still around, they don't advertise.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mwilbur516]

OP....this is what I got back from the builder. If you want to ask him specifics he is Gearhead2012 on the org.

If you were going to do studs one at a time (which I wouldn’t recommend) then it’d be hard to tell. You can compare the total head thickness to the OEM spec for minimum thickness, but measuring them accurately on the truck would be very difficult. If you pull the heads off while doing the studs anyway, you could more accurately measure the total head thickness.



If the concern is valve recession, you’ll want to be deeper than about .020” or so…if you resurface them without doing other valve job work you effectively move the rocker arm closer to the lifter, thereby increasing lifter preload, and increasing the likelihood of piston to valve contact. These engines left the factory with too much lifter preload to begin with; the safest option is always a rebuild.



If you’re doing all the machine work you can safely mill upwards of .008”-.010” off. If you just mill them with valves in place I wouldn’t resurface more than a couple of thousandths off, and even then, only if valve recession stays above .020” or so.​

With my vast knowledge... LOL ...are you going to be upgrading injectors, the turbo, or running a hot/race tune? If not, disregard the above and you could do the 1 stud at a time, following proper torque specs and sequence. You can always talk to the tuners (I see you're running one from IDP) about what you have done and what you want and they can write the tune as best they can to keep things together. Then, you can save some money while having fun for when the, IMO, inevitable happens, blow gaskets and have to pull heads. Studs can be reused as long as you don't over torque them the first time. Not bashing by any means, just my experience: Stock everything, bolt safe tune, race a Camaro and BAM, PUUUUKE...and $900....run! I had my spare heads cleaned, fluxed, pressure checked, and milled .003 for $260.



If you are so inclined, here is some light reading about machining 6.0 heads he wrote, lots o pics...



http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/general-6-0l-discussion/229120-how-machine-6-0-a.html



Best of luck with whatever route you go...:blitzed:

Jared is a great guy and extremely knowledgable. When my heads come off again, and they will, I'm gonna talk to Jared about slight porting and O-rings. I trust his opinion fully.


Sent while driving, drinking coffee and threatening to kill people in traffic.

 

[kornfanjoe]

Just throwing in my $0.02, I did my stud install one at a time over 40,000km ago and besides towing my truck has never changed from my Srl+ tune installed the day after I completed the studs.
I let my truck cold soak for a whole day before touching any stud just to ensure they were fully sealed and no more contraction due to cooling.

 

[6speedsd]

Good to hear! I'm seriously considering doing this here soon. I need to get some tests ran first just to make sure I'm still good, but if it is, what do I have to lose other than a day of my time?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[kornfanjoe]

id plan for 2 days and do any other upgrades if not already done,the rear bolt driver side is a pain in the ass

 

[Cold Roller]

I have one-at-a-timed it on 3 engines. With stock and a tune, none of the engines had any problems. My latest one has 20k since the studs. Right now it is not display any gasket issues, except it did burp once (day one) since putting on the larger turbo. I have run the turbo with various tunes for almost 3 months without a repeat event (boost PSI up to 40). However, I have an inkling that if I start beating on it, like the Charlies and a few others, I may end up having to work on a better solution, including fixing the transmission; today I had the trans or the TC slip when it shouldn't have under hard acceleration. It figures, today I just spent $7k on a lawnmower and there is still 3 feet of snow on my lawn.

 

[Mwilbur516]

Good to hear! I'm seriously considering doing this here soon. I need to get some tests ran first just to make sure I'm still good, but if it is, what do I have to lose other than a day of my time?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

NAPA also sells test strips that you dunk in your coolant ( like a fat girl dunks fries in her milkshake) and it'll tell you if there is any exhaust in the coolant. Between the strips and a blackstone report, you should be pretty certain.

Sent from my BNTV400 using Tapatalk

 

[Mwilbur516]

id plan for 2 days and do any other upgrades if not already done,the rear bolt driver side is a pain in the ass

Yep. Let things settle and retorque. Cheap insurance.

Sent from my BNTV400 using Tapatalk

 

[6speedsd]

I've seen those strips before but wasn't sure if they actually worked.

I'll probably catch a week when I have Friday off. That way it'll sit Thursday night, Friday and Friday night. Do the work Saturday, then let it sit til Sunday afternoon and retorque.

I've heard that one is a pain. Dimpling the firewall apparently takes care of that right? What abou passengers side? Can the back ones come out without removing heater box? Haven't really paid attention to how much room is over there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[6speedsd]

And what's the usual turn around with Blackstone?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mwilbur516]

And what's the usual turn around with Blackstone?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I usually have my email report within 2 days of the receiving my sample.


Sent while driving, drinking coffee and threatening to kill people in traffic.

 

[6speedsd]

I usually have my email report within 2 days of the receiving my sample.


Sent while driving, drinking coffee and threatening to kill people in traffic.

Good deal. I just requested one of their oil sample kits. Emailed them about doing a coolant sample as well. Thanks for the info brother. You've been more than helpful!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[kornfanjoe]

I personally just used a die grinder and cut out the old tty bolt with a vice grip on it so it doesn't fall. Then slightly dent the firewall and the stud fits easy.
Passenger side I removed the a/c box, inner fender, shock and a bunch of stuff to clear room. I would allow some extra wiggle time because it can get frustrating and take a while

 

[Mwilbur516]

I personally just used a die grinder and cut out the old tty bolt with a vice grip on it so it doesn't fall. Then slightly dent the firewall and the stud fits easy.

Passenger side I removed the a/c box, inner fender, shock and a bunch of stuff to clear room. I would allow some extra wiggle time because it can get frustrating and take a while

From what I hear, you can also loosen the motor mounts and trans mount, jack the engine up on the passenger side and make the drivers rear bolt a little easier. That's just what I've heard. I do know that the AC stuff/ heater box has gotta come out.


Sent while driving, drinking coffee and threatening to kill people in traffic.

 

[Mwilbur516]

Good deal. I just requested one of their oil sample kits. Emailed them about doing a coolant sample as well. Thanks for the info brother. You've been more than helpful!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey man, no problem. Glad I could help. Now, when it comes times to order parts, let me know. I'll take care of you there too.


Sent while driving, drinking coffee and threatening to kill people in traffic.

 

[06_Whitebull]

I pulled my AC box. Hammering the firewall is going to be a PITA with that head still on there if you do the 1 for 1 method.

 

[6speedsd]

Is the clearance issue on the drivers side just for getting the tty bolt out, or is there an issue getting the stud in too?

AC box.... Does just the cover come off, or does it all have to be removed?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[6speedsd]

Hey man, no problem. Glad I could help. Now, when it comes times to order parts, let me know. I'll take care of you there too.


Sent while driving, drinking coffee and threatening to kill people in traffic.

PM sent!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[06_Whitebull]

Both if you aren't pulling heads. Your only options are to dent the firewall, or loosen the motor/trans mounts and jack up the one side.

If you do the 1 for 1 method and loosen the mounts I would think you can jack one side at a time and not have to dent the firewall on the drivers side and not pull the box on the passenger side. I'm guessing at that as I have never done it....

Cold Roller, have any tips for this guy as you've done three????

 

[06_Whitebull]

You'd think so, but I have yet to find one. Like I said, there used to be several, but those are all long gone. If there is a good one still around, they don't advertise.

I get anal about some things and start looking for answers/solutions when I'm bored with work.....Try Memphis Motor Werks... They're in Cordova. http://www.memphismotorwerks.com/home

I don't know them and am 450 miles from them, but worth a shot...