Humor me

[6speedsd]

Can any competent machine shop work over a set of 6.0 heads, or do they need at least some diesel knowledge?

Memphis Motor Werks specializes in "fine import vehicles", according to their site. Beemer, Mercedes, etc.


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[Mwilbur516]

Can any competent machine shop work over a set of 6.0 heads, or do they need at least some diesel knowledge?

Memphis Motor Werks specializes in "fine import vehicles", according to their site. Beemer, Mercedes, etc.


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I look at it like this. If they can machine to the precise specs of German engineering, they're surely gonna be able to beat what International provides for our trucks. Personally , I'd like to use someone that had 6.0/365VGT experience and knows the ins and outs, but I bet you'd be fine with them.


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[backwoodsboy]

Honestly I think this guy could get a head closer to spec than whoever is machining them for IH/FMC

YouTube Video

 

[6speedsd]

If it really was only that easy!! Lol


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[6speedsd]

I look at it like this. If they can machine to the precise specs of German engineering, they're surely gonna be able to beat what International provides for our trucks. Personally , I'd like to use someone that had 6.0/365VGT experience and knows the ins and outs, but I bet you'd be fine with them.


Sent while driving, drinking coffee and threatening to kill people in traffic.

I need to give these guys a call and see what kind of price they quote me. What am I looking for...resurface, magnaflux for crack, and new hardened valve guides? Anything I'm forgetting?


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[Mwilbur516]

I need to give these guys a call and see what kind of price they quote me. What am I looking for...resurface, magnaflux for crack, and new hardened valve guides? Anything I'm forgetting?


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New valve guides, HARDENED valve seats. Most 6 L heads have cracked valve seats.


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[6speedsd]

Shows how much I know. Thanks for the correction.


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[6speedsd]

I'm really not as clueless about a 6.0 as I sound! I've just never fooled with the heads before.


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[kornfanjoe]

I've heard from several threads it's possible to loosen motor mounts to clear access driver side without denting but I find it's easier to take a hammer and bar it doesn't take very much just a slight dent. Nothing noticeable as the heat shielding covers it up.
Passenger side I'm pretty sure you need to remove everything to clear it. On my excursion I had the rear a/c condenser where the shock should be ill try to dig up some pics so you get an idea of the clearances

 

[kornfanjoe]

You can see by the box on the cab portion that the rear a/c condenser (atleast on excursions) are way too close and has to be removed

 

[6speedsd]

How hard is it to remove everything on the passengers side?


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[6speedsd]

The AC/heater stuff that is....

Is ther enough flexibility in the ac lines to move them to the side without discharging the system?


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[Cold Roller]

The AC/heater stuff that is....

Is there enough flexibility in the ac lines to move them to the side without discharging the system?

Yes, I did it on the latest one. It is a PITA compared to just removing the whole AC box as one unit. After you have a shop recover the 134a, it all slides out fairly easily when you find all the bolts under the dash. You then refill the system with a hydrocarbon enviro-friendly fill.

Cover is a pain to get off.

Then you need to wiggle it out.

Then you need to remove the box.

Here is a hint on where the 5 bolts are under the dash.

I personally just used a die grinder and cut out the old tty bolt with a vice grip on it so it doesn't fall. Then slightly dent the firewall and the stud fits easy.
Passenger side I removed the a/c box, inner fender, shock and a bunch of stuff to clear room. I would allow some extra wiggle time because it can get frustrating and take a while

There is no need to remove the inner fender, just the vacuum system bolted to it. The driver's side stud at the back can be done this way, but you can release the transmission mounts and jack it up. Some trucks seem to have more room than other - don't know why, but 1/2" goes a long way.

I have not removed the engine mounts to rotate the engine, but the oil pan just will not like supporting the engine on the lower portion as it will crush/dent under the weight of the engine. Found that out real quick with an engine on a lift that settled to the floor.

 

[6speedsd]

NAPA also sells test strips that you dunk in your coolant ( like a fat girl dunks fries in her milkshake) and it'll tell you if there is any exhaust in the coolant. Between the strips and a blackstone report, you should be pretty certain.

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Just got back from Napa. Well, two of them to be honest. First one had no friggen idea what I was talking about. Went to the other one, and they knew what I wanted, but were sold out. Sent me to Carquest, which again had no idea what I was talking about! I really don't like our local parts stores. Most of them wouldn't know an alternator from a starter.

 

[6speedsd]

There is no need to remove the inner fender, just the vacuum system bolted to it. The driver's side stud at the back can be done this way, but you can release the transmission mounts and jack it up. Some trucks seem to have more room than other - don't know why, but 1/2" goes a long way.

I have not removed the engine mounts to rotate the engine, but the oil pan just will not like supporting the engine on the lower portion as it will crush/dent under the weight of the engine. Found that out real quick with an engine on a lift that settled to the floor.

I might give jacking the trans up a try. But I feel the same way about lifting by the oil pan. That's alot of weight resting on a thin metal pan.

 

[acf6]

Thats the way we did the studs in my truck, cab on/ac box in. Loosened motor and trans mounts and jacked up each side of the engine. I honestly dont remember where we jacked from though, but it wasnt the oil pan.

 

[6speedsd]

So you can actually jack it high enough to get the passenger side bolts out WITHOUT removing the ac box?


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[Cold Roller]

Thats the way we did the studs in my truck, cab on/ac box in. Loosened motor and trans mounts and jacked up each side of the engine. I honestly dont remember where we jacked from though, but it wasnt the oil pan.

I'm guessing you jacked from the exhaust manifold with some rotation. The trans was probably free as well.

 

[kornfanjoe]

It isn't necessary if you drain the system and remove the components. I needed to to keep the system charged. Also excursions have rear a/c lines that run down the body that I had to loosen to get enough slack to do this. Again this is an excursion so there are slight differences.

There is no need to remove the inner fender, just the vacuum system bolted to it. The driver's side stud at the back can be done this way, but you can release the transmission mounts and jack it up. Some trucks seem to have more room than other - don't know why, but 1/2" goes a long way.

 

[acf6]

yes you can