My tow pig/DD build thread. F350/Cummins 6.7/twins/6R140

bad12jr

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The ones I've seen cut the box behind the header against the cab and pull the section out they need to remove. Then just put a backing plate under the skin and spot weld to prevent distortion. Body filler and some sanding should clean it up nice. The body shop doing the cab extension should be able to do it easily.

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Jake

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I'm going dually on mine, the new horse trailer is HUGE.

The arb would be the closest choice since i don't think Eaton has released the e locker for the Sterling. I'll be trying to find some selectable locker for the dually axle. I figured it would take 20+ k by the time I get an engine and transmission, wheels and axles, paint and interior....then my time...sure makes the newer truck look good.

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me2

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I'm going dually on mine, the new horse trailer is HUGE.

The arb would be the closest choice since i don't think Eaton has released the e locker for the Sterling. I'll be trying to find some selectable locker for the dually axle. I figured it would take 20+ k by the time I get an engine and transmission, wheels and axles, paint and interior....then my time...sure makes the newer truck look good.

What are you referring to, Jake ? A Cummins swap ? A cab stretch ? Are you going to do this on a 2011 ?

Its a shame to sell my 08. Its in such nice condition. I wonder if I could convince my wife that I need 2 Superduties, each with a Cummins of course... the 5.9 (and ZF6 ?) from my '99 would slide right into my 08.

I predict in a few years there are going to be a ton of 08 swaps going on. They are such nice trucks and I expect them to depreciate a lot once they come off warranty, due to engine issues. And especially when used 2011s start showing up at reasonable prices. The 08s will be great swap candidates.
 

Jake

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Im thinking about getting a newer Ford 6.7. I was going to do a third Gen or 6.7 Cummins in the 2000, but part of me just says get the newer truck with the additional safety and comfort then just air ride it and call it good.

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Jake

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Yeah i have two buddies that both have the control valve in there pumps going bad they both need injection pumps with less than 200k on them both stock trucks, and i know one of them came back with a BAD oil analysis and it's getting traded off for a new one. Not good long term future for the 6.4

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me2

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Yeah i have two buddies that both have the control valve in there pumps going bad they both need injection pumps with less than 200k on them both stock trucks
The problem with having high pressure pump issues is that often when the pumps go, these engines need an entire fuel system, ie injectors, rails, lines, etc as well as the pump. Its VERY expensive when that happens.

For those that aren't aware, the 6.4 in my 08 got an entirely new fuel system back in March, under warranty. I was lucky because it got diagnosed and fixed with 99,500 miles on the odometer. At 100,001 miles, I would have had to pay for it. Of course I would have just done the swap instead.

I'm not saying that Cummins engines are perfect, but for me its a lot easier to fix a Cummins and its less expensive to boot.
 
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Project20v

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So its not just me then. Thanks for sharing that.

The other thing I like about the 2011s is the electric locking rear axle. Short of building a custom axle, I can't put one on my 2008.

My 2008 has 3.73 gears and Ford doesn't put 3.73 gearing in SRW diesel trucks anymore. Only 3.31 and 3.55. The 3.73 gearing does come in the SRW gasser trucks, but I strongly suspect they only use 2 pinion gears in the diff, versus 4 for the diesel trucks.

The original owner of my 99 swapped rear ends with a 2wd gas truck for the 4:11 and then changed the R&P up front. I installed arb lockers front and rear. I wouldn't let the E-locker take up too much consideration, you're gonna have air on board anyway and the arb is a very tough unit that you have total control of. The elocker disengages at 30mph and deactivates when turning. I like complete control.
 

me2

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The original owner of my 99 swapped rear ends with a 2wd gas truck for the 4:11 and then changed the R&P up front. I installed arb lockers front and rear. I wouldn't let the E-locker take up too much consideration, you're gonna have air on board anyway and the arb is a very tough unit that you have total control of. The elocker disengages at 30mph and deactivates when turning. I like complete control.

Good points.

How much is the ARB unit and how hard is it to install ? A complete reset of the ring and pinions ?

It would be pretty easy to over ride the Ford elocker and make it do what you wanted.

Having an air locker in the front axle as well would be great for manuvering a trailer in bad conditions.
 
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Project20v

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Good points.

How much is the ARB unit and how hard is it to install ? A complete reset of the ring and pinions ?

It would be pretty easy to over ride the Ford elocker and make it do what you wanted.

Having an air locker in the front axle as well would be great for manuvering a trailer in bad conditions.

Yes, I'm sure you could overide the elocker. I think the ARB's go for around $900. The install is pretty simple, you just have to set the backlash and preload for the carrier bearings, you don't touch the pinion. If you have a pry bar, big soft hammer 5-7 lb, a vernier caliper, dial indicator and torque wrench you can do it. A inch lb dial torque wrench is nice but not really necessary for checking the preload.
 

me2

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Yes, I'm sure you could overide the elocker. I think the ARB's go for around $900. The install is pretty simple, you just have to set the backlash and preload for the carrier bearings, you don't touch the pinion. If you have a pry bar, big soft hammer 5-7 lb, a vernier caliper, dial indicator and torque wrench you can do it. A inch lb dial torque wrench is nice but not really necessary for checking the preload.

Thanks.

Not to hound you, but how is your truck coming P20V ?
 

me2

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The 2011 CAN messages are a lot different than the 2008 CAN messages.

There are more modules and there is a lot more data flowing around on the 2011. It will be harder to do a swap into a 2011 truck than a 2008 truck.

I guess figuring things out on my 2008 was good practice !

More CAN homework. Yuck !
 

me2

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So that means you are going with the 2011?

I haven't made that decision yet. And I'm still searching for the perfect 2011 truck too, so that is part of the equation. So for the time being, I'll work on things that will work on both a 2008 and a 2011 truck.

I've got this urge to do something though, anything. And I have a good 5.9 CR sitting in my '99. One thing I'm toying with is sliding it into the 08, pretty much stock and drive it for a bit while I build the stetched '11 with the Cummins 6.7.

That wouldn't necessarily be the best use of my time, but I'm getting tired of waiting for things. I want to do something.

It looks like the last of my plasma cutter parts arrived. I'll start on it next week. It will feel good to get going on that and then I can start/resume making parts for the swap.
 
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me2

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The cab stretch is still making me nervous.

A quick and dirty photochop. This truck has no lift and 18 inch wheels.

6%2520door3.jpg


The cab length behind the front seats is 75". Length wise its like adding a 70 inch sleeper to a Superduty regular cab. Its not as tall or as wide as a 70 inch HDT sleeper, but it will be a pretty comfy space none the less.
 
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me2

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I found this, written by an MDT Escapee, very interesting.

One thing to keep in mind is the huge changes in the LDT. Most have had some form of exhaust brake since around 2008, and have had the Tow/Haul function earlier. These are huge changes from earlier designs when it comes to hills and grades and stopping.

Last year I lost the trailer brakes in the northern Canadian Rockies on a long 6% downgrade. It is in tow/haul, apply brakes firmly and downshift to 2nd (P-N-1-2-D) and let the engine control the speed. Hauled it comfortably about 400 miles that way to Whitehorse to get it fixed. The truck was an '07 Cummins and the trailer a 10,000lb TT. The cause was the brake wires in the axle tube, where they abraded and went to ground. Brake wires are now outside the axle and protected from abrasion.

This year we have taken a 15,000lb 5th pulled by a '12 Cummins from NW WA to Indiana, back to Montana, up to Alaska and back. We are in Southern BC with about 10,500 miles towing since April. I did put electric over hydraulic disk brakes on it and am using the factory controller. Now I have to keep a slight pressure on the accelerator maintain a speed of 55 on the downgrades. There may have been a dozen times I applied the brakes on a downhill in the whole trip. This ain't you pappy's pickup.

Having said that there have been improvements, the bigger the truck the better. We got an FL50 to carry her car on the deck and tow a TT, and she much prefers the pick-up as it is easier to get in and out of, easier to put her 'stuff' in it, and more comfy even though the FL is air everything. I like the FL for better visibility and better brakes, but the '12 Cummins has more power and handles the hills better both up and down.

http://www.rvnetwork.com/index.php?showtopic=100524

Then there is this.
Taking an HDT offroad - even onto grass - is rolling the dice. What usually stops you is that the front wheels sink in and then you dig yourself in with the rears. In the situation you describe I would concur - an HDT is not the vehicle of choice.

http://www.rvnetwork.com/index.php?showtopic=97109
 
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me2

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We had an M2 106 which was not strong enough for our rig. We have a NH, 41' long, weighing just north of 20,000 also. It had a CAT 7 engine and even though we had upped it to 330, it just didn't cut it.

We recently traded it in for a Ford F550 (also considered a medium duty truck) and it is much stronger and is stopping us as well. As it has a lower profile (altho it has the same footprint) it is easier to park when going most places (even in many cities).

http://www.rvnetwork.com/index.php?showtopic=99057
 

me2

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We went camping on the weekend and put another 400 miles on the F350. We had a great time, truck worked well except for the fuel consumption and downshifting, yadda, yadda, yadda.

I'm going to put the trailer into storage for the rest of the year. We've got too much to do this fall to be going camping anymore. I'm sad to do it, but at least we had a great summer with it. We hope to do a long trip to somewhere warm in March, 2013 . I can hardly wait.

We met a family on the weekend camping in a motorhome. They were ogling our trailer. They dislike their motorhome, but its the only way they can take their family (3 kids) and their friends and/or family. Sound familiar ? I told them about project 6 doors and then spent an hour explaining the details. The funniest line was "You can do that ?"

I other news, the truck concept has gained a name from my wife. It will be a "Superduty SS" or "SS Superduty", depending on the mood. "SS" standing for stretched and swapped. :D:D:D

In still other news, I'm kicking tires on various truck candidates, including a brand new 6.2 gas XLT. The prices are certainly right. The question is, what am I giving up and how much will it cost (time and effort) to update the options and interior trim.
 
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Denver

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If you stretch the SRW superduty to a 6 door are you going to be able to stay within the 11,500 GVWR with a 1/3 more cab and 3 more people? or I think 7150 rear axle rating with the trailer attached? And if you got in an accident with the trailer hooked up would your insurance cover the accident with a 1 ton truck that has had the frame cut and stretch?
 
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