My tow pig/DD build thread. F350/Cummins 6.7/twins/6R140

me2

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If you stretch the SRW superduty to a 6 door are you going to be able to stay within the 11,500 GVWR with a 1/3 more cab and 3 more people?

Yes and no.

My truck right now weighs 8200 pounds empty and 11,000 pounds full of fuel, passengers and with the 5er loaded and hooked up. The cab extension will add about 500 pounds to that, putting it right at the rated GVWR without extra people. So without repacking anything, extra people would put it over its rated GVWR.

or I think 7150 rear axle rating with the trailer attached?

The rear axle right now weighs right around 5500 pounds with the trailer attached. The 20 inch tires are rated at 3750 pounds each. Rear axle wise, I'm not worried about overloading anything but the springs, and they will be replaced with an air ride suspension, so no problems there.

Frame wise, the F250/F350/F450 pickups share the same frame specification. The F450 is rated to a GVWR of 14,500lbs. The F450 frame has slightly different cross members in the back, but the section modulus behind the cab is the same. Ditto the F350 DRW frame which is rated at 13,000 pounds.

When I splice the frames together, I'm going to reinforce the frame, increasing the section modulus in the middle above what it is on the F350 and F450 DRW trucks. Frame strength and stiffness should not be a problem.

As far as brakes go, the F350 SRW trucks (GVWR 11,500 pounds) share the same braking system as the F350 DRW trucks (GVWR 13,500 pounds) with the exception of the rear calipers. I might swap DRW calipers onto my truck for enhanced braking capability.

When all is said and done, I should be right at the GVWR for my truck, but the frame, brakes and suspension will be upgraded to handle loads higher than its GVWR.

And if you got in an accident with the trailer hooked up would your insurance cover the accident with a 1 ton truck that has had the frame cut and stretch?
I don't want to start a big discussion about this, but yes they will.
 

rpenner54

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As far as brakes go, the F350 SRW trucks (GVWR 11,500 pounds) share the same braking system as the F350 DRW trucks (GVWR 13,500 pounds) with the exception of the rear calipers. I might swap DRW calipers onto my truck for enhanced braking capability.

Since you have both the 08 and the 99 what kind of differences are there in the rear brakes on them? I am pretty sure the fronts on teh newer ones have bigger brakes as they have the bigger wheels. Was not sure on the rear.
 

me2

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Since you have both the 08 and the 99 what kind of differences are there in the rear brakes on them? I am pretty sure the fronts on teh newer ones have bigger brakes as they have the bigger wheels. Was not sure on the rear.

The 08 has bigger brakes all around. The specs for both are in their respective body builder manuals.
 

me2

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I'm back. Another 1000+ miles this weekend on a long road trip. I did 450 miles last night alone, arriving back home at 2AM. Tired, but not exhausted. 08+ Superduties absolutely rock.

80 years of Fords. The entire chassis of the Model A will fit in the bed of my F350.
DSC_9374.jpg
 
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me2

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"The law requires that all vehicles must be certified in the final stage. Any manufacturing operations performed on motor vehicles prior to the first purchase must be certified."

http://trailer-bodybuilders.com/mag/trucks_tara_frame_modification/

This parrots what I've found locally when looking into the frame stretch.

Anyone contemplating a frame stretch on a Superduty should consult this.

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q18.pdf

I've compiled a ton of information and knowledge on this topic. It turns out it isn't bad at all. Its all about the 6Ps: Proper preparation prevents pi$$ poor performance. AKA doing your homework.

I'll post more when I get caught up around here.
 
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me2

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Frame Stretching 101

I've been doing some homework on this, so here it is.

Step 1. Talk to the insurance company.

If you can't insure it, you can't license it. And if you can't license it, you can't drive it. It would be terrible to go to all the work to build it and then run into a situation where you can't use what you built.

My insurance company told me that they are fine with insuring a 6 door Superduty, but because its a modification to the frame, it needs to be inspected and certified. What did they mean by certified ? The same approval that is given to get a car with frame damage back on the road. They called that "certification".

Who does such "certifications" ? "An auto body shop that does inspections".

Step 2. Find someone to certify the frame.

So I called around to a bunch of body shops. And the answers I got were No., Never., Forget it. I wouldn't touch it. We don't do that. and No. :shrug: Obviously I was looking in the wrong place.

I almost gave up at this point. But then I saw a stretch limo on the road. So I called the limo company and they gave me the name of the company that works on their cars if they get in an accident.

So I called the company they recommended and set up a meeting. This business is a father and son team and all they do is frame work. They straighten frames, they stretch and shorten frames and they are a licensed inspection facility for just about everything including medium duty trucks.

It turns out that they have been fixing, modifying and inspecting frames for 20 years. They have done some really wild projects.

Step 3. Plan the job.

Once I found these people, I had a meeting with them where I showed them the truck and described what I wanted to do and how I was going to do it. After some discussion they said they would be happy to certify my work subject to it being done correctly. They will do this for anyone. Its their business. Their charge to do a frame certification is $300.

Actually, their certification would also cover the changes to the cab itself, but for the sake of this post I'll leave the cab out for now.

The "being done correctly" part was very interesting. There are guidelines and approved practices to stretching a frame that must be followed or they cannot approve it.

IIRC, their rules were

- the frame must be cut in a level, straight section. You aren't allowed to cut it in a bent section.

- the cut must be stepped or diagonal. No straight cuts.

- it must be bevelled and welded from both sides

- they must be able to inspect the work as it is being done

- they must be able to test the welds for penetration and hardness. They do this by trying to cut them apart with a chisel or they will grind a weld and then have you reweld it when they are done.

You don't have to be a certified welder, but the welds have to be very good. No bubble gum welds. No porosity. They must penetrate the frame properly.

- once the welds are approved they MUST be ground flat, so the frame is the same thickness everywhere.

- the frame alignment must be very good. Probably need to build a bit of a jig to hold it while its being worked on.

- a brace must be added to the frame, of their design. It needs to be welded where and how they say. It turns out you don't weld the brace to the frame flange and its stitch welded into place. Absolutely no continuous welds.

- the frame brace also needs to be bolted into place with some grade 8 bolts as a backup in case the welds fail.

They were very good about explaining what needed to be done and how to do it.

Their certification fee covers certifying the frame (and cab), as it would be if someone brought them a finished frame for inspection. It doesn't cover all the help that I might need getting things done correctly. Their charge for the extras was their standard shop rate of $80 an hour and they said that $500 should cover helping, inspecting and certifying.

After I met with them, I found this document.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q18.pdf

It basically explains most of the stuff they were telling me, except that

- Ford seems to think its OK to cut the frame straight, whereas their shop wants a step or diagonal cut.

- Ford doesn't mention bolting the frame brace as they seem to want me to do.

I haven't met with them since finding the Ford document. I'll show it to them and listen to what they have to say about what Ford recommends. In the end they need to be comfortable with what I have done in order to approve it. I don't have a problem with doing step cuts and adding bolts to the brace if they think its necessary.

I was very happy to find them. I'll gladly pay $500 for assistance with the project in order to do it right the first time and to get it certified in the process. I learned a lot just meeting with them. Their was no charge for our meeting.

I was further very happy to find the Ford document outlining how to stretch a Ford frame and even more happy to find that what Ford outlined basically matched what they were saying. It would have been a nightmare if it hadn't.

So it seems as though there is a way to properly, professionally stretch a frame in such a manner that its straightforward to do, it will last as long as the original frame, its in a manner that Ford likes and its something that insurance companies will not frown upon. I couldn't ask for anything more.

I was nervous about stretching the frame prior to finding all this out, especially having to tell my insurance company about it and having to convince them there wasn't going to be any issues with it.

When I was researching this, I came across a number of frame stretches on the Internet that broke just about every rule in both the Ford document and the frame shop's guidelines. I don't know what to say about those except that I highly recommend following the path I did if you are going to stretch a frame.

I hope this helps someone.
 
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me2

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I'm still milling over what truck to do all this work on and what exactly I am going to do.

I spent a couple hours driving my dad's 2011 on the weekend. Its a nice truck but the only real standouts over my 2008 were the seats. They were softer and better shaped in his truck, making them more comfortable, but the seat position seemed wrong or finicky at best.

I'm 6'1" and it seemed as though I had to have the seats as low as they would go to be comfortable. In my 08, I can be comfortable with the seat as low as it will go and as high as it will go and on a long trip I use both positions and positions in between.

Some people complain about the 08+ KR seats, but I like them. The key is to keep them treated so they are soft.

For some reason my dad's 2011 truck seems to be way bigger and more clumsy than my 08, even though his is a short box and mine is a long box. I think the hood is bigger on a 2011 and maybe the windshield is smaller ? Maybe the steering is slower ? I don't know what it is, but it seems to have a way different feel. More ponderous. Slower. It surprises me every time I drive it.

My 08 definitely rides better than his 2011. Both are 11,500 GVWR F350s, but mine has 20s and his has 18s, mine is a long box, his is a short box and mine has Bilstein 5160s and his has the stock shocks.

The one thing that bugs me about keeping my 08 is the lack of side air bags and side curtain air bags. It would haunt me if we were ever in an accident and we didn't have them. I have never been in an accident, but it can happen to anyone.

Then there is the issue of the cab stretch. I'd rather not do it if I don't have to. I love the look of the 08 crew cab long box trucks and how they ride and drive. I'm not sure how much I'd like a 6 door short box. If we need to have one, then I'll do it, but if we can make do without then I'll avoid it. I'm very happy that I stopped and figured it all out before I went any further with the swap.

So I think for now I am going to drive a long box 4 door CC truck. Once I figure out what year I want, I'll do the swap on it and use it for a bit. Should I find that we need the 6 door cab, I'll stretch it later on. This would mean cutting the rear driveshaft twice and possibly redoing the rear suspension a bit when the frame is lengthened, but so be it.
 
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me2

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I received a bunch of questions.

"Why do you have to grind the frame flat after you weld it ?"

I was told that because cracks will develop wherever there are big changes in stress and having the frame go from its normal thickness to the weld thickness and back to normal puts 3 areas of different stress close together. Grinding the weld reduces that.

"Why can't you just weld a plate in/on the side (web) of the C section ?"

Because adding material to the web doesn't increase the frame strength that much. Material needs to be added to the flange, because that is where a C section gets its strength from.

"Why don't they weld diamond plate over the frame splice on the inside ?"

I don't know.

"Why isn't the flange of the brace welded to the flange of the frame ?"

If you did that it would create stress changes in the frame flange.

I'm guessing that adding the brace to the frame by welding it to the web is like making it an I beam without messing up the stress in the existing flange.

I'll trust that Ford knows how best to extend its own frames.

"Why is the web of the preferred frame brace angled in the Ford document ?"

Probably to better distribute stress to the original frame.

"Why doesn't the brace have a flange above the frame ?"

I suspect that the top flange is in compression and already strong enough.

"Why doesn't the list of trucks include short box trucks ?" (156 inches for CCSB)

Because there isn't enough room between the cross member behind the cab and the front leaf spring hanger. Ford doesn't want mods done in that area.

And Ford probaby thinks you should start with a long box frame if you want a longer frame. I'm guessing here.

"Why do you want to buy a short box truck then ?"

Because my splice will be under the cab, not behind the cab. I'll be splicing in a piece of frame section or grafting on another entire frame to lengthen it. I don't have to touch anything back by the leaf mounts.

And if you start with a long box frame you need to add length under the cab as well as shorten it under the box, essentially making it a short box frame. And that shortening would be in the area by the front spring mounts, where Ford doesn't want it to be messed with.

The Ford document doesn't contemplate the owner stretching the cab. Only the box. My frame shop tells me its fine to stretch under the cab.

"Why is the brace stitch welded ?"

I don't know, probably some stress distribution strategy. But the shop told me to do it that way and the Ford manual says to do it that way, so I'm not going to argue. They know what they are doing.

"Do you really have to get it inspected ?"

Actually, the frame shop told me I didn't if it wasn't going to be used for commercial use.

But my insurance company asks me to list the modifications and enhancements on my truck when I renew and I think it would be a bit of a fib if I didn't tell them it had 6 doors instead of 4. And then they want it inspected.

I think the government only wants it inspected if you sell it. I'm not sure and I don't really care. Mine is getting inspected.

"Does it matter how you cut the frame ?"

I don't know.

"Why doesn't Ford use higher strength steel ?"

I don't know. I think that stronger steel has less resistance to fatigue from flexing. And its probably cheaper.

"Have you ever worked on a frame before ?"

Yep. My dad and I extended 2 MDT frames about 15 years ago. No problems with them that I know of. But I'm told that MDTs and pickup truck frames are different and need different techniques.

"Are you a certified welder ?"

Nope.

"If you buy a short box truck are you going to splice on a 2nd frame or just lengthen the current frame ?"

I don't know.

Prior to seeing the Ford document I was going to graft on a new frame. They are about $400 to buy used.

However, the Ford document seems to indicate it would be fine to just add a section using the right C section.

"How do I stretch the frame on my XYZ truck ?"

I don't know. Get help like I did.

I'm not a frame expert. I'm just relaying the information that I got to try to answer the questions. Someone who does Finite Element Analysis could answer these much better than I can.

I know that this isn't the way one would stretch a frame on an HDT. I'm just following what I've been told works for a pickup truck.

I hope this helps.
 
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me2

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I'll get back to this project shortly.

I still don't know what I am doing for a truck, but I'll (re) start working on the engine and getting the transmission attached.
 

me2

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Time for an update.

I'm still in no man's land as far as figuring out if I should use my current 08 F350 or upgrade to a 2011 for this project. I've made offers on a couple 2011s, none were accepted.

I'm afraid that I'll just get started on this project with my current truck and the perfect 2011 will pop up for cheap.

I'm not even sure what a 2011 would give me over my current F350. The biggest item is that I could get a short box truck straight away, versus having to do a box swap on my current truck. Its hard finding a good used short box. And I'm loathe to put on a junky one given what great shape the rest of my F350 is in.

The other thing that is niggling in the back of my mind is that Ford has announced the 2013 model year is going to be shortened, so the 2014s will probably be receiving an update. That should reduce the price of a used 2011 somewhat, when its fully revealed.

I'll just keep looking until something pushes me one way or another. Its not like I've had any spare time to work on it anyway, as I have been fully occupied working on some business issues that have cropped up recently.

I put 1600 miles on my 08 on a long road trip last week. 2x 800 mile days. It never fails to impress me how great these trucks are for road trips.

What is truly amazing is how great they steer. My truck goes exactly where its pointed, no correction required. Its a little thing but its adds up after spending 13+ hours in a single day driving it. As do all the other creature comforts it has. I can't think of a better vehicle for long road trips. I don't know what I would have done this last year if I hadn't had it.

The other thing that is amazing is what great condition my truck is in for having over 115K on it. I've put 31K on it since I bought it last fall and haven't really done a thing to it. Windshield wiper blades, oil changes, front tires and rear diff friction modifier oil is all that comes to mind. And it seems like its ready to go another 30K, though I haven't taken a good look at it in a while.

I guess it shouldn't surprise me that my F350 is so trouble free, given that my F250 was also like that. Still, having purchased it used, I expected I would have had to spend some money on it already. But its been completely trouble free. And people wonder why I like Superduty trucks.

Having said all this, I still do not like the 6.4. But I won't go into that again.

Enough babbling. I think I have everything in my life under control again. Should that be the case, I'll restart working on my project shortly.
 
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Jason

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So is this thread to like a tape recorder? To record your thoughts? Just use the truck you have now and stop taking the entire village with you, instead of bastardizing the truck. You dont need 600hp to tow with, none of the drivetrain will live long at all at that level. People tow all the time across country at stock power leveks and have no complaints..instead of wasting all this money, invest it in the vacations, instead of sinking it in yohr truck, Im sure your wife and kids could give two shts how fast you pulled that last hill. You are the laughing stock of pirate4x4, and peoole stop listening to you bc your way is the only way. The village will thank you for leaving them behind also...why tag along with the idiot when you dont have to, right?
 

vcassens

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So is this thread to like a tape recorder? To record your thoughts? Just use the truck you have now and stop taking the entire village with you, instead of bastardizing the truck. You dont need 600hp to tow with, none of the drivetrain will live long at all at that level. People tow all the time across country at stock power leveks and have no complaints..instead of wasting all this money, invest it in the vacations, instead of sinking it in yohr truck, Im sure your wife and kids could give two shts how fast you pulled that last hill. You are the laughing stock of pirate4x4, and peoole stop listening to you bc your way is the only way. The village will thank you for leaving them behind also...why tag along with the idiot when you dont have to, right?

So why are you tagging along? It is his build and his money to do with as he pleases. If you don't like the build or don't agree with it don't read about it. You are right it is his way or no way it is his build!

Sent from a bus 6 feet in the air
 

me2

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peoole stop listening to you bc your way is the only way.

This coming from the guy who has the following sig

"Just say NO to flipped tow mirrors, ptm, black wheels, oraling coal, fummins swaps, flat billed hats, and being anyones "bro"."

and is posting in the Engine Conversion forum. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

You must be a beloved member of PirateLUserHaul ?
 

seeyalater5.9

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**** just got real.

But on a side note I agree with him..this thread popped up like 4 years ago and you still don't even know what truck your gonna use? If you have enough money to buy a 2011, rip it all apart to simply "put a cummins" in it so you can tow that hill at 69mph instead of 62...then by all means hack at it
 

seeyalater5.9

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This coming from the guy who has the following sig

"Just say NO to flipped tow mirrors, ptm, black wheels, oraling coal, fummins swaps, flat billed hats, and being anyones "bro"."

and is posting in the Engine Conversion forum. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

You must be a beloved member of PirateLUserHaul ?

I believe his says "say NO" to cummins swaps...get off the bandwagon, do something original, and no this is no different than billy bob down the road swapping one into his 94 f250
 

Jason

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No, I am not a member. I, much like you, am not a wheeler. I just browse, as I am interested in seeing some of their ideas for stuff.

I won't bother going any further with answering that other hands questions, or yours refetencing my sig.
 

me2

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**** just got real.
???? Like it wasn't real before ?

But on a side note I agree with him..this thread popped up like 4 years ago

You mean 4 months ago ????

and you still don't even know what truck your gonna use?
I know exactly what truck I'm going to use. I will be a 2008-2011 F350 SRW 11,500 GVWR, crew cab, 4WD with Lariat or King Ranch trim, 20 inch rubber in white or black, preferably with the chrome package. I want the backup warning system, back up camera, integrated brake controller, tailgate step, power rear sliding window, power telescoping mirrors and console in the front. Nav is optional as I'll probably replace it anyway.

I only want to do this once. I want to start with the right truck. Its not something you want to trade in 3 years.

The principle of 6Ps. Proper Preparation Prevents P*** Poor Performance.

If you have enough money to buy a 2011, rip it all apart to simply "put a cummins" in it so you can tow that hill at 69mph instead of 62...then by all means hack at it
I've got way more reasons to swap engines than 7 MPH on hills pulling a 5er.

I don't like Powerstrokes and I don't care for the 6.7.

Have you looked under the hood of a truck with one ? Do you want to own that mess when its out of warranty ?

Are you aware that the 6.4 in my 08 F350 needed a new fuel system to the tune of ~$10K at 99,500 miles ? Dodged a bullet there ! And the Ford 6.7 has a very similar fuel system, right down to using the same CP4 pump that the 6.4 uses.

I like Cummins engines. I'm going to build me a Ford truck with one. You might not agree with that, but this build thread isn't about your truck, its about my truck.

Furthermore, this discussion has never been about raw horsepower. If you read the thread, you'll notice that I mention I have no interest in dyno competitions, drag racing or sled pulling.

What I do need is a truck that pulls my trailer well and that means I need a reliable engine with lots of torque backed up by a good transmission with the correct ratios. To me the ultimate combination to meet those goals is a twin turbo Cummins 6.7 backed up by a Ford 6R140. And so I've assembled parts to build just that. Its my version of the ultimate tow vehicle.

Even furthermore, this isn't my first kick at this cat. 6 years ago I built what was then my ultimate tow vehicle. It was a 99 F250 SRW CC with a 5.9CR and ZF6. I put air suspension and 20 inch rubber on it. It turned out to be a great truck.

While lots of other people were mucking around with their 6.0s in a new truck, I didn't spend an hour working on my 5.9CR after I swapped it. It gets great fuel economy, it has good power, its reasonably quiet and the swap cost me almost nothing.

I see no reason not to repeat this recipe. 6 years ago nobody agreed with swapping a 5.9CR into a truck with a perfectly good 7.3. 6 years later my only regret is that I didn't do the swap and mods sooner.

And looking back I should have started with a truck that had more equipment on it as I either added everything I wanted anyway or I cursed the fact that it didn't have some of the things that I wanted.

Knowing all this, I'm proceeding with my swap.
 
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me2

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FYI, Dodge has released the specs for its 2013 Ram HD trucks.

The Cummins 6.7 in the 2013s will make 385/850 when backed by the Aisin transmission. The 6.7 stays at 800 ftlbs when backed by the 68RFE. I think that says something about the 68RFE's capabilities. I'm glad I'm not using one for my swap.

I think it also says something about the 6.7s strength that Dodge is willing to take it to 850 ftlbs in stock form and also speaks to what people need and want when pulling big trailers. Torque, lots of it, and down low.

Its going to be interesting to see where the torque/power war ends. 850/385 is more torque and power than you can get in any class 6 MDT truck.

The 2013 6.7 will also use DEF.

The 2013 trucks are going to get a stronger frame, higher GVWR and GCWRs and the 3500s get a front suspension very similar to the 05+ Superduties, ie twin radius arms with coil springs. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

One really nice thing that Dodge has built into the 2013s is an air box that will either draw from behind the headlight on the passenger side when the weather is good or from along the fender near the cowl when it isn't. I've had snow plug the air filter on my 08 several times. And my '99 had the early air box that had the same problem until they retrofitted it with the new late '99 air box under warranty. For some reason Ford has great difficulty designing good air intake systems.

I can't wait to ditch the 6.4 air box and filter when I do my swap.
 
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me2

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I believe his says "say NO" to cummins swaps...get off the bandwagon, do something original, and no this is no different than billy bob down the road swapping one into his 94 f250
Like I give two hoots about what he or anyone thinks is original.

I'm not doing this to be original. Its not a show truck. I'm not in a competition.

I'm doing this to build the truck I want. If I wanted a different truck, I'd build or buy it instead of the one I'm planning.
 

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