Powerstroke Cowboy
Well-known member
Would a 1/4 inch air hose work?? I have some I use for work that are rated for 300PSI.
I think that is what i am going to try on my gates.
I think that is what i am going to try on my gates.
New project...need a name!
- Thread starter 907DAVE
- Start date
from what i have experienced even bigger boost leaks dont really effect overal boost just how fast it gets there.
What are you using for clamps? Have you thought about using boost from the atmosphere side instead of the manifold to control the gate? less boost, and it allows the atmosphere turbo to get a little speed built up before the gating begins
What are you using for clamps? Have you thought about using boost from the atmosphere side instead of the manifold to control the gate? less boost, and it allows the atmosphere turbo to get a little speed built up before the gating begins
Its just barbed fittings.
The secondary gate is being controlled using manifold pressure. The only way to do this using the 14lb spring (highest I can get) is to run manifold to the top and regulate the bottom. The atmo gate is the same, but using atmo pressure.
If there is a better way to do this I'm all ears. Trying to keep total boost around 80psi to keep my fire rings happy.
The secondary gate is being controlled using manifold pressure. The only way to do this using the 14lb spring (highest I can get) is to run manifold to the top and regulate the bottom. The atmo gate is the same, but using atmo pressure.
If there is a better way to do this I'm all ears. Trying to keep total boost around 80psi to keep my fire rings happy.
have you ever just unhooke both top and bottom ports on the secondary gate just to see how it acts? I have had pretty good luck with mine set up like that just letting the spring pressure do the work, seams to be happy around the same amount of boost
the "12 lb" spring is reference to how the gate will open with full boost to the bottom and no boost to the top of the gate. So taking away the boost on the bottom drastically effects how it opens. Mine seams to open around 60 lbs of back pressure
I am only gating between stages tho and its a vgt turbo
the "12 lb" spring is reference to how the gate will open with full boost to the bottom and no boost to the top of the gate. So taking away the boost on the bottom drastically effects how it opens. Mine seams to open around 60 lbs of back pressure
I am only gating between stages tho and its a vgt turbo
Correct, but thats without factoring the BP's pushing on the valve face, if I was informed correctly.
There is seemingly alot of goofy math involved in figuring what pressures need to be to hold the gate shut, but there's no way it can hold it back on spring pressure alone if the above statement is true.
There is seemingly alot of goofy math involved in figuring what pressures need to be to hold the gate shut, but there's no way it can hold it back on spring pressure alone if the above statement is true.
The surface area of the gate is a factor
BUT the manufacters rate the springs with equal back pressure pushing on the bottom of the gate... let me dig up some info for you
THis is why my gate with 1.2 bar springs works well at 60 psi of back pressure, think about it when the springs are in the gate there is far more than 12 psi required to push on the gate to open it...
please hold for factual info lol
read the disclamer right in the first line under the springs
http://www.tialsport.com/documents/w3_tial_46_sp.pdf
http://www.tialsport.com/documents/w3_tial_46_sp.pdf
now read this where it says spring pressure only
http://www.tialsport.com/documents/MV-Install-Guide.jpg
http://www.tialsport.com/documents/MV-Install-Guide.jpg
yes if you read under line routing, and spring pressure only it says run a line to the bottom port and leave the top ports open
If there is 12psi in the uppipes, and 12psi on the bottom port the gate will open. IF one or the other isnt there it wont open as early.
If there is 12psi in the uppipes, and 12psi on the bottom port the gate will open. IF one or the other isnt there it wont open as early.
i was a little worried about that at first, i didnt want gate chatter or anything. Initially i put full boost from the big charger to the bottomr of the gate and nothing to the top, just wanted to make sure i was on the safe side, the truck wouldnt make more than 50psi absolute so it was a dog, i basically unhooked the hose on accident and found that it worked well
Note on the "manual controller" it states to hook the boost reference to the regulator, then from the regulator to the bottom of the gate, they state just like the spring controled to leave the top open and plug the remaining bottom ports. Essentially the same thing as turning the regulator all the way down
So an alternate solution for you would be only running the boost reference to the bottom and see if that helps, or even running maybe full boost from the big charger to start out. Not saying any one way is going to be better but you have options here that might help.
The thing i like about the spring pressure is if the boost line comes off, breaks, burns up ect the fail safe is there. just some food for thought.
Note on the "manual controller" it states to hook the boost reference to the regulator, then from the regulator to the bottom of the gate, they state just like the spring controled to leave the top open and plug the remaining bottom ports. Essentially the same thing as turning the regulator all the way down
So an alternate solution for you would be only running the boost reference to the bottom and see if that helps, or even running maybe full boost from the big charger to start out. Not saying any one way is going to be better but you have options here that might help.
The thing i like about the spring pressure is if the boost line comes off, breaks, burns up ect the fail safe is there. just some food for thought.
Yeah, I am just getting pulled in many directions on how to setup these gates. I love getting new info, just hope that's how TN designed their gates. Either way its a simple hose swap away if I cannot get things dialed.
I like the safety of it being setup this way, but the run in the video was made with NO boost to the top of the secondary and was still pushing over 90psi...lol.
I like the safety of it being setup this way, but the run in the video was made with NO boost to the top of the secondary and was still pushing over 90psi...lol.
I'm def not trying to make you go a particular way or the other, i have been told several times the only way to go is with full boost to the bottom regulated to the top, i have been told reg to the bottom and full boost to the top, i have been told regulated to the bottom, i have been told regulated to the top, there are allot of options just find whatever works for you.
Mike haller did tell me tho, SAE... Simple And Effective... thats why i havent changed my set up, i do plan on tweaking mine on the dyno some to see if i'm leaving power on the table or not.
Mike haller did tell me tho, SAE... Simple And Effective... thats why i havent changed my set up, i do plan on tweaking mine on the dyno some to see if i'm leaving power on the table or not.
I think the plan right now is to try and work with how its set now, then flip the hoses around if I cannot get things under control.
Wonder if full boost top and bottom would work well for your setup, or if you would even notice a difference.
On edit:
You also need to consider the pressure on the other side of the valve face that your atmo is creating, that must have some bearing in why your spring doesn't start to crack sooner.
Wonder if full boost top and bottom would work well for your setup, or if you would even notice a difference.
On edit:
You also need to consider the pressure on the other side of the valve face that your atmo is creating, that must have some bearing in why your spring doesn't start to crack sooner.
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