Project Wheels Up

[vanderchevy18]

400/400's

 

[Lang]

Ok. Here is some info on the transmission.



The first ever Dieselsite Legendary E4OD transmission will be going into a 97 F250 in a couple weeks. The truck will have 250/100's, Adrenaline HPOP, Irate turbo kit, GT4202, and Gearhead tuning. It will be an excellent test of the transmission. The cost is $4,174 plus shipping, labor, and tax. Total out the door after shipping both ways, install, and tax is $4,728.34. I don't have warranty information yet, but if it's anything like their other products, it'll be really good. That is for the 500hp trans. Basic pricing for a 4R100 is as follows - Stock to 400hp for $3,399, 450 to 550hp for $3674, 600 to 800hp for $4924, and 800+hp for $6624. The higher the hp the more expensive it is. However, there is finally a reasonably priced transmission for the 500-600 hp guys. You can add things like mag hytec trans pan, 6.0 trans cooler, etc. The biggest thing is that the only difference between any of these transmissions are the shafts and the torque converters. The transmissions themselves are all built to top quality standards. E4OD transmissions are about $500 more than 4R100's unless you send a good 4R100 with your E4OD to pull parts from. So there you go. That is the low down on these transmissions. I will keep you guys up to date on how this OBS does with the new transmission on another thread. Back on topic....

Nope. I know Brian at BTS uses custom parts... What is the warranty for these?

 

[vanderchevy18]

The valve body, torque converter, and pump are all custom in house built parts. The clutches are a mixture of the things that work the best. So there's no "kit" that they're buying like most shops.

I don't have warranty info yet.

 

[vanderchevy18]

Got the belt on. First try too! Running an ATI damper, Superduty front cover with Superduty water pump and alternator, and obs belt tensioner and idler. I ended up using a 100 5/8 inch belt. The last piece of the puzzle is a fuel tank sump that I'm waiting on from Irate. I should have already had one on the shelf, but oh well.

 

[vanderchevy18]

Here are some pics I've been meaning to upload.

 

[vanderchevy18]

 

[njjeep]

I like how the suspension turned out looks good. Hopefully it hooks up real good too!


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[vanderchevy18]

I do too. Technically it's still a stock leaf spring suspension. I just removed the stock shocks and some leaves and added adjustable coil covers. Then I technically just added a trac bar.

 

[JoeDaddy]

Now you need a lexan hood so you can see the track to 300 ft.

 

[vanderchevy18]

Lol! I really don't think I'll need it, but let's hope. LOL

 

[lincolnlocker]

Now you need a lexan hood so you can see the track to 300 ft.

YES! That would be sweet!

live life full throttle

 

[vanderchevy18]

It would be cool to have a clear hood though. Only problem is the 78 hood is so deep and formed funny that it couldn't work.

Hmm... I could take a hood and cut most of the center out and replace it with plexi. Then when I paint it I could paint around the outside and fade to clear on the top so you can see the engine when the hood is closed. The only problem I have with that is the heat may melt it.

 

[Hotrodtractor]

I must admit I am a bit perplexed by your suspension and chassis setup. I get why you stripped it down to a monoleaf and used the coil overs to actually control the spring rate and dampening forces of the suspension. I get the need for the additional bars to control the axle - BUT - the way you have it setup will actually bind your monoleaf setup since you have it on the shackle side of the spring - if you were to reverse the mounting so those bars go forward you would be able to better mimic a 4 link in geometry and setup, allow free motion of the suspension, put the bar in tension instead of compression, as well as many other setup improvements all by switching those bars around.

 

[vanderchevy18]

Already got that covered. I have two choices. Both of which are setting here and all I need to do is bolt them on. The first is a half leaf that goes from the axle forward and clamped tight at both ends and the middle. Basically turning the leaf itself into a rigid trac bar. The second option is a second set of bars on the bottom of the axle also going rearward. I have already welded the brackets and built the bars. They're just not on there. I haven't installed them yet because I don't have confirmation as to whether or not it will disqualify me having a "4 Link". 5 minutes though and both ways of doing it are installed. The biggest reason for the reverse traction bar set up is so that the force of the axle wrapping is directed to the rear transferring more weight over the rear tires. They are also set to go from perfectly level at full compression to angled upward to the rear so that the force of the wrapping actually lifts the rear causing the wheels to be pushed down even harder giving better traction. It's all theoretical brainstorming between a couple guys who don't know what they're doing, so who actually knows. LOL

 

[vanderchevy18]

Oh, and my new E450 trans brake tail housing should be here in the next couple days!! Woohoo!

 

[rat49f6]

That last part of your theory is pretty solid ...I've seen poorly set up 4 links lift the rear of the truck when goofing the go pedal because of what u did on purpose

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[vanderchevy18]

So am I good or totally off?

 

[rat49f6]

I think you are on to something ... alot of the closer to stock Toyota minis use a reverse link set up because of space

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[vanderchevy18]

We'll see what happens I guess. Hopefully it does what it should.

 

[Hotrodtractor]

You can accomplish the same thing with a forward mounting bar with less geometry issues and better control. This is the same thing us pullers have been doing for a very long time.