School me on 7.3 power handling

Groomzybanshee

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I pulled for 3 years with stock bottom end.. Dyno'd 593 with the 250s and 66mm after the first year I added more air and fuel the truck ran extremely better. Never broke/bent a rod, put a whole in a piston from a ****ty injector spray patter with a new "big" set I was trying.

My dd has been 550hp for about 100k, just recently made 660 on a single stage. These bottom ends are decently tough with good tunes.
 

Southmike

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That was in reply to the comment that few if any trucks topped 700 .
But weather it has been done or not .. I would not run over 650 on oem rods.
 
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I feel like tuning has vastly made leaps and bounds in the past 5 years. Shoot I made over 500hp on pmrs for 20k miles before I swapped the motor never blew it up just wanted to go bigger that setup ran 8.4s all day consistently and relatively cool egts. Now I am running a factory forged bottom end and should be over 600 has run as fast as 7.81 but consistent 7.8-7.9s all day. Have a few new tunes to try out now may be faster. This is all on fuel and @7800ish lbs. Ill be at rudys running hoping to hit mid 7s with a few changes. May be luck Idk I drive the truck every day and am not easy on it just take a few precautions like letting it fully warm up and such.
Also don't leave out Matt Maier he has ran as fast as 7.4s I believe on stock bottom end in his crew cab obs. That puts him a little over 700 depending on weight

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DocBar

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A few trucks have lived at the power levels you mention, but blind squirrels find a nit now and then, too. If you want reliable over 500, go with a fully built motor. If you want to see what you can get out of a stock motor at those levels, have a built motor on a stand waiting to be installed. It WILL blow eventually. It might be 3,000 miles or 30,000 miles. My money says you'll be driving very easy when the window mod rears its ugly head. "I was doing 20mph in a school zone and developed an ocean of oil under the truck and heard very strange noises with no throttle response." That's a very common thread.

Tuning has improved a bunch and has helped keep a lot of motors alive, but there is still a tremendous degree of luck involved with "throwing a forged rod motor in and....". Pick a diesel and you'll see that thread title in any search engine.
 

littleredstroker

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A few trucks have lived at the power levels you mention, but blind squirrels find a nit now and then, too. If you want reliable over 500, go with a fully built motor. If you want to see what you can get out of a stock motor at those levels, have a built motor on a stand waiting to be installed. It WILL blow eventually. It might be 3,000 miles or 30,000 miles. My money says you'll be driving very easy when the window mod rears its ugly head. "I was doing 20mph in a school zone and developed an ocean of oil under the truck and heard very strange noises with no throttle response." That's a very common thread.

Tuning has improved a bunch and has helped keep a lot of motors alive, but there is still a tremendous degree of luck involved with "throwing a forged rod motor in and....". Pick a diesel and you'll see that thread title in any search engine.

Coasting downhill in a blizzard. When I installed windows 7.3

sent while staring at a windowed block
 

co04cobra

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Ive ran my 00 at 600++ for 3 years 30k+ miles. Some sled pulling, good bit of dynoing, and numerous 1000mi+ round trips. Its dynod 625, 644, 676, etc.... with 0 issues. Ok one map sensor issue, and a small leak in a uppipe.

My 97 is above 500+ for several thousand miles now. a few injector issues but nothing to do with the long block.


600+ is probably at the outter edge of forged rods but with good tuning and the right rest of the combo I wouldn't think twice about it.

For around 500 I wouldn't blink an eye on a stock forged motor. Just my .02.
 

David N

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Mine blew after driving 1000 miles straight through. No stops other than fuel. And no changes other than a tank of fuel on my "tow" tune. That was the ONLY time it ever came off my hot tune. I still to this day think thats what blew it.

Running a consistent tune, day in and day out, IMO, helps them live longer.
 

Southmike

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chrischweiger

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I just bought a 2001 7.3, and I was wondering what the highest steady HP area would be? It's a daily driver, I have a trailer on it more than not. I'm not looking for a competition truck, just a little more ass. Should I shoot for 350-400? Or just stick a wicked wheel and tuner on it and call it done.
 

Hotrodtractor

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There is a truck pulling here in central Ohio that is over 600 ponies and living. With an S476/83 and 400/200s it did 615 with what we found out later was a dead cylinder. That truck now has an S480/96 with 400/400s. STOCK bottom end, no girdle, no fill. Is it a gamble? Yup. Is it fun? Sure is. :D
 

TARM

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A strong engine with 200/300 and turbo that moves the air a gt4294 moves with good tunes can hit 600. Its been done a few times. Even with pull off salvage yard journal gt4294s. If I recall Vanderchevy's first setup was just that and with Cales tunes made strip passes that had it at just over 600.

It also comes down to how a person drives on how long these 600+ stock bottom ended engines last. Someone that only stomps on it every once in awhile versus someone that treats the go pedal like a on off switch. Very different stress levels. There is enough variation in stock engines parts and tolerances you can have two engines setup the same way and driven the same way and one may not let go until high 600s yet another windows at mid 500s.
 
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