Turbo pedestal oil leak after replacing O rings

[TexasJ]

Ok thanks

 

[TexasJ]

Yeah that's my plan at this point I think

 

[TexasJ]

Yeah...but the whole point of this entire job was to ****** the pedestal and remove a potential leak spot at that actuator (which was leaking to begin with).

 

[JohnT24]

Yeah...but the whole point of this entire job was to ****** the pedestal and remove a potential leak spot at that actuator (which was leaking to begin with).

I’ve seen some people will modify the original pedestal.
And remove the actuator…. Blocking a couple holes or something.

I’m sure somebody who has done it will chime in.

 

[psduser1]

No rtv.
Why not just ****** the oe pedestal?

I’ve seen some people will modify the original pedestal.
And remove the actuator…. Blocking a couple holes or something.

I’m sure somebody who has done it will chime in.

If your still having a leak, rtv is worth a shot, lol. Sucks to see a problem like this.

 

[TexasJ]

Yeah I'm pretty furious about it. This'll be like the 4th or 5th time I've pulled the turbo in the last 30 days. Getting real sick of it.

 

[Magnum PD]

I took the whole assembly out of internal section. Then tap it out and put in a pipe plug.

 

[Patrick Feeley]

I know if I ever get rid of the EBPV on my Cali 97, I will only get a genuine Garrett non-EBPV pedestal. At any rate I modified my 94's pedestal way back in the day. I had someone weld up the holes and weld in some plates to cover the large opening from removing the actuator cylinder. I was trying to make it look decent and not be hacked up looking. Cheers!

 

[TexasJ]

Ok... so it looks to me like you closed up both holes that the oil passes through. Is that right? And if so, wouldn't that damage the turbo running it like that with no oil?

 

[dsberman94]

That might be the difference for California.

 

[psduser1]

I know if I ever get rid of the EBPV on my Cali 97, I will only get a genuine Garrett non-EBPV pedestal. At any rate I modified my 94's pedestal way back in the day. I had someone weld up the holes and weld in some plates to cover the large opening from removing the actuator cylinder. I was trying to make it look decent and not be hacked up looking. Cheers!

That looks good!

Ok... so it looks to me like you closed up both holes that the oil passes through. Is that right? And if so, wouldn't that damage the turbo running it like that with no oil?

He removed the "damper"- the butterfly part that stops exhaust flow. Oil flow is bottom to top, and vice versa, for supply, and return, respectively. Those ports are covered with tape in the pics. His pics are showing the weld "repairs" on the side of the mounts.
I did it magnumpd's way. Just not quite as refined, but effective. If I remember tomorrow, i'll get a pic. I think I've still got one on the shelf.

 

[Gnathv]

This video might help. As said before, it doesn’t affect oil flow to the turbo.

https://youtu.be/ErbD5cgIyBc

 

[79jasper]

If you do use a rtv, I would recommend "right stuff."

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

 

[Patrick Feeley]

Oil passages are still open, both supply and drain. The duct tape on the top was to keep filings from getting in the passages. Closed up the solenoid hole as well. This was on my 94, so no Cali versions at that time. Cheers!

 

[TexasJ]

Ooookayy gotcha. Yeah I didn't realize it was duct tape. Lol. When you said you welded up the holes I thought you meant those too and I got very confused haha.

 

[TexasJ]

Ok that's the way I'm leaning right now. Any reason for using "the right stuff" over permatex?

 

[TexasJ]

Ok yeah it was the duct tape that threw me off lol. I thought he had welded those oil passages closed. :doh:

 

[JohnT24]

Ok that's the way I'm leaning right now. Any reason for using "the right stuff" over permatex?

I did a quick search but due to the multiple varieties of “ The right stuff”
I fell down the rabbit hole.


One version of “ The right stuff”
Was that it had a very high temperature threshold.

But that is because it’s designed for exhaust gaskets etc.


Permatex 2 has a maximum temperature of 400° I believe.
And most importantly it resists oil and gasoline and remains pliable and does not harden.

I may be missing something, there may be different versions of the right stuff.

But I’ve always had good luck with the #2

But further all rings, just a light coating.

The same way you would put a silicone grease or anything else on an O-ring.

Again this is just my backyard mechanic opinion.
If I was in the situation.

But all that said, anything Permatex Is usually good stuff

 

[Magnum PD]

You need to have a flat turbo pedestal and the correct o rings. “Sealing” the crack won’t work.

 

[TexasJ]

The turbo pedestal surface that mates to the engine is flat. That's what stumps me. As far as the O rings go, there's no reason those shouldn't be working either. I just don't get it...