Well its been a fun ride!

[ToMang07]

I jus replaced my cps a month ago. Why does it keep going bad?



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What kind of CPS? (From where)

IMO.... Ford or International CPS is the key.

 

[Petro]

:whs: And then B*tching that he put black wheels and big tires on it, Ya What a tool for customizing HIS truck that he paid for. He should make his truck look how other people like it because thats all that matters. . . . . F*cken Dbags. To the OP, Good looking truck man and good luck getting her fixed. I love the look of aggressive tires on a dually.

 

[yotaneck13]

Ebay cps lol. Now i think it may be that.

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[TheSmokinStroke2002]

Ebay cps lol. Now i think it may be that.

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Yea probably not your best bet on a CPS. but like tarm said, go to advanced. That or go straight to an international dealer.

 

[Dieselgeek]

Any pictures of the wife?

 

[DocBar]

Fuel dripping off your starter?! Wtf????? You gotta find out why that things pissing fuel all over the place man. Keep us posted. I don't get on during weekends much but I'll try to see ur updates.

Fuel there probably means the OP has a fuel line rubbed throough. The same thing happened to me a couple of years ago. Pretty easy fix.

 

[6.0Dually]

Team player I see......

 

[yotaneck13]

Yes sir. She likes to flaunt it!

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[yotaneck13]

If you are a supporting member of.the pirate 4x4 forums you may have seen more of her. With less clothes

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[TARM]

I frequent that forum from time to time but I keep my eyes off other men's wives out of general respect but first and foremost for my wife and family.

Back to the possible reasons you are going thru CPS.

One: crappy CPS. Get a Delphi manf ones only IMO to eliminate this as a possibility. Another thing for IPR and ICP sensors UVCH etc use Motorcraft or IH parts only. Save you lots of grief.

Two: excessive camshaft end play. If the gear ever touches the CPS it will kill it. One of the reasons if when a camshaft is replaced or doing a engine rebuild IMO its mandatory to weld the cam gear to the camshaft end.

Another: bad batteries cells or bad alt or crappy ground. Its the one weakness of these computer controlled engines. Dirty electric power can really send these things haywire without any rhyme or reason. Crazy stuff.

Another thing is to make sure the wiring harness going to the CPS is good from the connector all the way back to the main harness. Likely not a bad idea to ohm it out to be sure its good.

Make sure you clear your codes so you know when/if they are coming back etc...


BTW was your blow-by looking out of the oil fill tube before it stopped running?

 

[yotaneck13]

Alot of stuff i need to checl out when.i get time.

Do you mean leaking out the fill.tube? If so.i dont know. It has been knocking more than normal mabye idm?

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[85_305]

Maybe I'm old fashioned, but I like the stock look with respect to lights and things. Don't know why guys started "taco-ing" out the diesel trucks. Putting 24" wheels with low-pro tires is GAY with an emphasis on the gay.

Lots of flat billed douche bags with their parents money buying diesels and putting chips in them to "roll coal". Go back to the ricer world, azz bags!

Sorry for the derail and not meant directly at OP.

I agree man

While trying to ignore some to the delinquent attitudes of some lets try to get this thread back on track. Charles pointed out most of what I would have as well and you can trust his points on what these engines can take as he has beat on these from what he had posted more and harder than the vast majority of us.

So to put that baby to rest if you have been good with your changing of fluids and filters its very doubtful you have beat your engine to death just from running it hard. These engines were made to run @ 100% the actual stock power and last 300K. That means having a load heavy enough you could put your foot to the floor and not gain any speed and just holding it there. 99% of the time most are using but a very small fraction of the peak power a engine makes. Just because it can make the power does not mean you are using it and its actually outputting that much during that time.

Maybe I missed it but what chip /who's tunes are you running and how old are they?


To the issues.

Fuel leak

Will not start

Dead accelerator pedal



Well you had a loose chip that you messed with while powered up. Its a very good chance this is the reason for your no start issue. The PCM is likely fried. Seen it a fair number of times and many on the forums.

Unless the fuel is literally spewing and pouring onto the deck the fuel leak is not enough to prevent it from starting. But this needs to be fixed ASAP and before driving it anywhere.

Normally someone saying they see fuel down coming off the oil pan I think fuel bowl leaking into the valley and down the rear and onto the pan. Same for oil as well.

Take a look in your valley. If its full of oil sludge etc then pick up a few cans of engine cleaner or purple piss a over grown toothbrush some rags and paper towels. Get it all cleaned up. All the way back to the turbo pedestal.

With the chip out completely (just in case it may still be good) turn the key on to allow power to the fuel pump. It will run for 30 seconds. Long enough to see fuel if its a bad leak. See if the valley is getting fuel in it. If it looks good. Recycle the key again and start tracing the fuel leak. If its really dripping off the starter my guess is that it has something to do with the passenger side fuel line connection at the head which is at the rear above the starter. Again get up in there get it all clean and then remove what you need to so you can get a good view. Mirrors if needed whatever. FYI the head ports are NPT so whatever you do do not just go cranking on the connector if it looks like its leaking there. Pull the line and connector. Clean it up and replace. Now would be a great time to install a RR as that should be done even on a full stock engine. The cheapest while not the best route is the Rif Raf FRX deal.



The no go pedal is likely the Throttle Position Sensor. Get your trusty multimeter out. With key on. The connector/plug IIRC you should get .27-.5 and 4.5 when its floored.

To save the most money I would find your local Salvage yard as it should have some super duties there. You can get all the parts you need:

Passenger side fuel line and connector

PCM for your model year and trans manual or auto. Maybe someone can post up a range of PCM codes that will work for your truck.

Throttle Position Sensor or just pull the complete pedal assembly JIC.


Swap out the PCM and DONOT install your chip. Do not touch that PCM at all beyond installing it. See if your engine will start now.

Fix the fuel issue and pedal.

Have a nice day.

While I agree that its hard to just DRIVE these trucks and damage them... it's VERY easy to destroy them. Using crappy oil, not giving the truck oil changes, not changing the filter, using a crappy air filter and dusting the turbo/motor, using ether and blasting rings/splitting blocks, sucking in water from messing around in creeks/poor choice in intake, running water in the oil from water-crossings/coolant leaks, etc. There's a LOT that one can do damage these trucks if not maintained.

Thanks gor taking the time to type that tarm.

I replaced the acellerator pedal switch the day it died. And i still had no pedal.

I have a new guage cluster on the way. And am looking for a hole new harness.

I will scan it later today and see whats up. But i scanned it the day it died and i had no pending codes. In my historyz codes was cps, overboost, ebpv (it was unplugged)

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'

stupid idea to replace the pedal... they almost never go bad. CPS sensor... read the following.

So you were having CPS issues before it died. Its possible that is all the issue with starting.

If you do get a new CPS do yourself a favor and pick up the one manufactured by Delphi . Its the same as the old black ones. You can get them from Advanced Auto and then use a online coupon to save you even more money. Under $30 for it. Now you do have to actually type in the name delphi cam position sensor for it to come up as you have to order it as its not a usually stocked item. But it will get there in just a few days. Maybe NAPA will have it in stock not sure. But its an black sensor with the larger magnet like the original and without the thick plastic between the pickup.

Actually here is the link to save you time http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...56833-p?searchTerm=delphi+cam+position+sensor

Then enter "P20" as the promotion code and that will take $8 off the list original price of $35 down to $28 and shipping is free.

The ONLY cps I would put into my truck are Fords, and more importantly International units. I wouldn't TOUCH advanced/autozone/ebay etc.

I jus replaced my cps a month ago. Why does it keep going bad?



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read your answer below....

Ebay cps lol. Now i think it may be that.

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Ebay is a HORRIBLE idea. I will bet money your CPS is at least PART of this problem.

As requested

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very nice :thumbup:

If you are a supporting member of.the pirate 4x4 forums you may have seen more of her. With less clothes

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I may have to enroll

Alot of stuff i need to checl out when.i get time.

Do you mean leaking out the fill.tube? If so.i dont know. It has been knocking more than normal mabye idm?

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AFTER the truck is running, take the oil cover off and set it on the oil filler hole and see if it gets pounded off or if it stays over the whole. That will give you a GENERAL idea on blowby.

 

[Charles]

I didn't read through thoroughly to see if you got an answer or not, but since you say your snotty post wasn't directed at me, I'll go ahead and tell you that you have a leak up on top of the motor in the valley. Most likely the fuel bowl drain valve if the engine is stock. The reason it's pouring out near the starter is because the block has a ~3/4" hole in the "wall" at the rear of the valley that leads into the cavity between the block and trans bellhousing. There is also a pathway that leads along the back of the block down to a small hole in the bottom of the block near the pan rail.... right next to your starter.... behind it actually.

I actually run a small braided line through this hole, inside the bellhousing on manual trans trucks, that way when/if a fluid leak happens in the valley, the hose will carry it out away from the clutch and dump it out right behind the starter.

Check your drain valve first. If the fuel system is stock then that's your 99% chance right there. Next would be the little vibrolock fittings on the hardlines. If you've messed with the regulator, then that's your most probably location. At the vibrolock fitting on the reg. Go to ford and get the little pack of them and done.

If none of that, then it's next likely to be the hardline on the passenger's side where the little clamp bolts to the head and steadies that line. The rubber coating wears off and the engine vibration eventually wears into and through the hardline there. But it's usually at very high mileage.

Good luck.

 

[85_305]

Doggone thats a great idea... check the fuel bowl. You say the bowl is empty, is the fuel/water sep valve shut???? If our pour diesel into the bowl, is it holding the diesel in there?

 

[yotaneck13]

Fuel bowl is full. The valley does have some diesel in it but its actually less than was in there when i first got the truck.

Its done nothin but rain all weekend. So i didnt really mess with the truck much. I need to clean up the toyota crawler parts in the shop and get it in there.

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[DocBar]

I didn't read through thoroughly to see if you got an answer or not, but since you say your snotty post wasn't directed at me, I'll go ahead and tell you that you have a leak up on top of the motor in the valley. Most likely the fuel bowl drain valve if the engine is stock. The reason it's pouring out near the starter is because the block has a ~3/4" hole in the "wall" at the rear of the valley that leads into the cavity between the block and trans bellhousing. There is also a pathway that leads along the back of the block down to a small hole in the bottom of the block near the pan rail.... right next to your starter.... behind it actually.

I actually run a small braided line through this hole, inside the bellhousing on manual trans trucks, that way when/if a fluid leak happens in the valley, the hose will carry it out away from the clutch and dump it out right behind the starter.

Check your drain valve first. If the fuel system is stock then that's your 99% chance right there. Next would be the little vibrolock fittings on the hardlines. If you've messed with the regulator, then that's your most probably location. At the vibrolock fitting on the reg. Go to ford and get the little pack of them and done.

If none of that, then it's next likely to be the hardline on the passenger's side where the little clamp bolts to the head and steadies that line. The rubber coating wears off and the engine vibration eventually wears into and through the hardline there. But it's usually at very high mileage.
Good luck.

Happened to me ~200K. IMO, this is where the fuel leak is.

 

[TARM]

85_305

While as a general rule I agree with you on buying sensors etc only from Ford or IH in the case of the CPS I think this to be wrong. The grey sensors they sold caused far more issues then the original black ones every did. The BLue and all other current IH are just as bad. Those that those two are selling today cause idle issues, mpg loss, CPS Cam gear PU issues which cause Contribution test failures and false codes.

For sensors such as ICP, IPR, UVCH I am 100% Ford IH.

If you read carefully you will notice I mention ONLY the DELPHI CPS one specifically and list Advanced because its
1 one of the few places that has them listed by manf.
2 you can use online coupons based on order price to get a good discount.

What usually matters is the manf not the place you purchase it from. This goes for many other Ford parts as well. Fuel filters Racor = Motorcraft Unit Bearings Timken=Ford Fuel pump Bosch=Ford etc......


Yotaneck13,


Try the CPS I listed for ya. Its under $30 so no big loss. You may need to actually shim the sensor if you end up having some cam walk and it getting too close. If you have walk then the issue could be contact with the hall sensor and that will kill it forsure. The other could be the actual connector could have some deterioration and you can order a new one.


There is another one that is also good but the issue is it sensitive to RFI which seems to come from some trucks wiper motors especially when used on intermittent settings. The issue is really the wiper motor and likely would cause CB or Radio noise as well. Wiper motors IMO should have Coil capacitors install on the terminal. But its the one made by Borg Warner you can look that one up as well and choose. It actually has a better oring than the delphi.

BTW make sure to put di-electric grease on the o-ring to help seal it as well as the connector. Best would be to order a high quality Viton o-ring from RifRaf for it. Still grease it. The issue is the ones that come with even the old CPS end up flattening out and not properly sealing over time from the engine heat. My bet is these end up being more the issues even with the old CPS that caused the change in the first place more than the CPS themselves. The old ones from what I could see used higher quality parts than any of the newer ones. Many noticed engine cuts outs in rainy situations which to me points to water infiltration or wiper motor interference as the culprits. Next was likely cam walk.


The CPS issue has been one I put some times on. I can go into the differences between the various CPS that go directly with the issues seen with the various ones. I think anyone with an attention to detail took the time to Dremel open 5-10 various CPS and compare all of them you would be amazed at the difference. Especially when you see how the construction effects the actual distance between the hall sensor in the CS and the gear teeth as well as its orientation in the CPS mounting port. I could go into it great detail but I doubt most want to understand it and would rather just know what sensor to us and be done with it.

 

[TARM]

Yotech,


Forgot to mention if it ends up eating another CPS then its likely an issue with it hitting the cam gear. IN that case you need to try shimming it or ideally find someone with the micrometer CPS tester that IH sells. It will show the actual measurement and you can then set it properly and see if that helps. The air gap is suppose to be .025

 

[yotaneck13]

Thanks that explained a lot for me. I ordered a delphi cps. Just waiting for it to show up.

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[Copracr]

I actually run a small braided line through this hole, inside the bellhousing on manual trans trucks, that way when/if a fluid leak happens in the valley, the hose will carry it out away from the clutch and dump it out right behind the starter.

Man, I thought that was my bright idea. I liquefied a clutch and when I replaced it I put a 90 degree elbow and some rubber hose running out the bottom of the bell. Clutches are expensive and I wasn't about to replace another prematurely.