head removal question ASAP

89 Stroker · Feb 28, 2013

neverkickn said:
Cylinder wall?????????????????

cylynder wall looked fine of what i can see

Powerstroke Cowboy · Feb 28, 2013

So you are not going to change the Piston....

neverkickn · Feb 28, 2013

No lines other than cross hatch?

Bugman · Feb 28, 2013

Get a good light in there and see if you can see any vertical lines in the cylinder where the hose clamp could of scratched it. Turn the engine over by hand so that you can inspect the whole cylinder.

Dantheman · Feb 28, 2013

If the valves are good and the bore is good then the piston or the injector is trashed if it has a miss. The connecting rod could be bent but I dont think that is very likely.

89 Stroker · Feb 28, 2013

the cylynder wall is nice n smooth, not dinged up at all, acctual piston looks like it has a tiny tiny crack on the very outside of where the ose clamp was smashed into it

yes i am going to change the piston

bluedge8 · Feb 28, 2013

bud, you can take our advice or hit yourself in the face with a hammer,,,,,
IT WILL BE EASIER TO PULL THE MOTOR THAN PULL THE OIL PAN IN CHASSIS!
is that clear enough? We all want to help you but you are not listening, I don't think anyone who has posted actually has done an oil pan in chassis, they were regurgitating info discussed previously. if you can't afford to pull the motor, then remove the valve springs from that cyl, and check both valves for proper movement and make sure the seats don't have damage, throw that thing back together and start saving for another motor. And check that injector, it is probably why you had a miss. What makes you think that pulling the motor is so hard? it is actually easier than pulling the head which you already did. the fact that it is a conversion I don't see a big deal considering the truck it's in.

Powerstroke Cowboy · Feb 28, 2013

Then you have to pull the engine.. No question about it.. Is has to come out..

Trust me on that...

Hotrodtractor · Feb 28, 2013

Find a good compression junk yard motor and save yourself a lot of time, headache, and money.

While you are spending money on the head - trying to pull the pan with the engine in the truck (I'll tell you to NEVER do that - but some people will do as they wish) - swapping a piston (rings and bearings) - replacing the head gasket, etc.... you will have spent WAY more than just finding a good motor.

7.3psd97444 · Feb 28, 2013

Pull. The. MOTOR. And please listen to this guy^^^. Jeeez.

89 Stroker · Feb 28, 2013

whats a better option, getting a motor from a junkyard or online/craigslist?

7.3psd97444 · Feb 28, 2013

Whatever you can find long as its legit. Ide look everywhere if it were me.

kyle43335 · Feb 28, 2013

bluedge8 said:
bud, you can take our advice or hit yourself in the face with a hammer,,,,,
IT WILL BE EASIER TO PULL THE MOTOR THAN PULL THE OIL PAN IN CHASSIS!
is that clear enough? We all want to help you but you are not listening, I don't think anyone who has posted actually has done an oil pan in chassis, they were regurgitating info discussed previously. if you can't afford to pull the motor, then remove the valve springs from that cyl, and check both valves for proper movement and make sure the seats don't have damage, throw that thing back together and start saving for another motor. And check that injector, it is probably why you had a miss. What makes you think that pulling the motor is so hard? it is actually easier than pulling the head which you already did. the fact that it is a conversion I don't see a big deal considering the truck it's in.

Not to long ago i had to pull a 7.3 out to reseal a pan some other shop thought they could do in chassis.

They made a ***in mess out of that guys truck. New pan leaked worse then the old one. They trapped the o rings under the turbo, chopping them in half. Just a big mess. Owner said the shop took a week to do that.

I pulled the engine, resealed the pan, fixed all the chit they broke, in alittle less then a day and a half.

Denver · Feb 28, 2013

Give Diesel Tech a call. Loren will give you all the info you need and he probably has a few engines laying around.

DEEZUZ · Feb 28, 2013

POWER-STRUCK · Feb 28, 2013

CCV was puffing in your previous thread video. just saying!

Lamont_24 · Feb 28, 2013

The hardest part about pulling the engine is the turbo. Just pull that off and then it's 6 bolts for the trans I think, and then un plug, take the fuel lines off, then it's like 8 or 10 bolts for the engine mounts. A swivel and impact make quick work of it. I pulled my transmission and engine two weeks ago in about 6 hours, the core support took probably an hour. It's not as hard as you might think it is. Trust me. I'm only 18 and I did it if that says anything haha. Just trying to help ya out bud!

bluedge8 · Mar 1, 2013

car-part.com is another option, Craigslist, local yards, members here are all good options for your next motor. Even though you have a conversion truck, the truck itself is basically the same as the trucks the motor originally came out of, it won't be as bad as you think.

backwoodsboy · Mar 2, 2013

89 Stroker said:
whats a better option, getting a motor from a junkyard or online/craigslist?

I'd try and get one out of a running (preferably low miles) truck that has been totaled. That way you can hear/see it run before buying. Plus you can practice pulling the engine on a wreck where it doesn't matter if you scrape the paint.
Either that or from a reputable member/vendor on the forums.
At least in my neck of the woods, junkyards are crooked as a barrel of fish-hooks and will try and pass any POS off as a running low mileage motor. Same goes for private party sales on craigslist and such. I bought what was supposed to be a low mileage running 7.3 off clist a few years back and upon removing the heads it became apparent that the truck had been hydro-locked as a result of driving into some sort of muddy water. 3 bent rods, cylinder bores/pistons/valves coated in rust and dirt.