powerstrokenstang
New member
Been there done that. Stall one day loadin it on the trailer, nut was off. Few months later had a not real great hooked, was loading back on the trailer and almost stalled, same deal.
Rough running, codes etc...
- Thread starter TARM
- Start date
Is there any reason it would not be OK to get a solid nut. I figured that and a little purple loctite which always stays sticky so nut will not back off. OR I noticed an Old IPR I have as the nut as part of the actual cylinder. Could I swap that on the newer IPR?
I need to still change out the trans range sensor. I am getting the code and its disabling my parking assist system which then gives a code.
I swapped out the Glow plug module but I am having an issue. For the life of me I can not get the two plugs to fully seat. They are both the same so I am wondering if its a manf tolerance issue. They are both seated within a mm of full. I just cannot get them far enough for the little clip lock to engage. I am strong arming this thing and that damn plug is in as far as it will go unless I put a clamp or pliers to it LOL. Any ideas . I can not see how the connections are not engaged with go contact given the lengths of the pins.
Anyone got any ideas?
I have done some checking and I did find a thread over on TDS that had a guy with the same issue and the GPCM was the issue. Thread
Its even the same exact GP that was reading faulty. A coincidence or ....
I need to still change out the trans range sensor. I am getting the code and its disabling my parking assist system which then gives a code.
I swapped out the Glow plug module but I am having an issue. For the life of me I can not get the two plugs to fully seat. They are both the same so I am wondering if its a manf tolerance issue. They are both seated within a mm of full. I just cannot get them far enough for the little clip lock to engage. I am strong arming this thing and that damn plug is in as far as it will go unless I put a clamp or pliers to it LOL. Any ideas . I can not see how the connections are not engaged with go contact given the lengths of the pins.
Anyone got any ideas?
I have done some checking and I did find a thread over on TDS that had a guy with the same issue and the GPCM was the issue. Thread
Its even the same exact GP that was reading faulty. A coincidence or ....
Thanks Dave.
Not sure why I didn't think of that.
Well it looks like the X is going on the trip. Along with in tow a tool kit and 2 UVCH a Trans Range Sensor and 8 glow plugs LOL. Just in case of course.
My BTS will be shipping out this coming week so I will have a present when I get home from the trip.
I would luv to know what else the GPCM does exactly. There must be something more than just controlling the glow plugs like the relay does. I have found a number of threads on the net where guys have had rough running engines even after warm up and messing with the GP system got things smoothed out. That should not be possible if all it did was turn the glow plugs on and off. I tend to wonder if it has some diagnostics features that then cause the PCM to make changes some how.
I will likely pull the driver side VC and check number 6 glow plug and replace that banks set. I am going to check resistance from the GPCM harness connector first and see if anything shows.
Not sure why I didn't think of that.
Well it looks like the X is going on the trip. Along with in tow a tool kit and 2 UVCH a Trans Range Sensor and 8 glow plugs LOL. Just in case of course.
My BTS will be shipping out this coming week so I will have a present when I get home from the trip.
I would luv to know what else the GPCM does exactly. There must be something more than just controlling the glow plugs like the relay does. I have found a number of threads on the net where guys have had rough running engines even after warm up and messing with the GP system got things smoothed out. That should not be possible if all it did was turn the glow plugs on and off. I tend to wonder if it has some diagnostics features that then cause the PCM to make changes some how.
I will likely pull the driver side VC and check number 6 glow plug and replace that banks set. I am going to check resistance from the GPCM harness connector first and see if anything shows.
Well as luck or not so much luck would have it I think I finally have the answer to what is the issue with the rough running.
We got the X all packed up and started to leave this morning for the trip. Had no sooner than pulled onto the road outside the house when I fell a bit of hesitation and then POP. No power and looking in my mirror you could not even see the road then all the white smoke. All fuel as you could smell it even being in front of it. That along with loud tapping sound coming from what sounded to be the driver side bank.
Had it towed back to the house so as to now end up with a hydro locked cylinder. Will pull the VC when I get back from the trip but it looks to be a defective injector o-ring. It finally blew completely. That or maybe I did not get one fully seated.
That I think would explain the rough idle, smokier than should be exhaust, even the higher than normal ICP. We will know for sure next Monday.
We got the X all packed up and started to leave this morning for the trip. Had no sooner than pulled onto the road outside the house when I fell a bit of hesitation and then POP. No power and looking in my mirror you could not even see the road then all the white smoke. All fuel as you could smell it even being in front of it. That along with loud tapping sound coming from what sounded to be the driver side bank.
Had it towed back to the house so as to now end up with a hydro locked cylinder. Will pull the VC when I get back from the trip but it looks to be a defective injector o-ring. It finally blew completely. That or maybe I did not get one fully seated.
That I think would explain the rough idle, smokier than should be exhaust, even the higher than normal ICP. We will know for sure next Monday.
Yes I agree. If I had not run the truck for the few days prior I likely would have been about 4 hours down the road when it went.
I actually now recall have a terrible time getting #2 injectors to properly seat. No matter how much lube. No matter how much pressure. The thing never seemed to make than pop it does when it fully seats. After much pounding we did get it to seat where it was even with the others but I bet something up with a o-ring did not let it seat as it should of.
Are the o-rings Ford carries OK or should I go to International? They will have the crush washer as well? My Uncle who had a friend @ IH always took care of these type parts so never bothered to ever go else where until I moved.
I actually now recall have a terrible time getting #2 injectors to properly seat. No matter how much lube. No matter how much pressure. The thing never seemed to make than pop it does when it fully seats. After much pounding we did get it to seat where it was even with the others but I bet something up with a o-ring did not let it seat as it should of.
Are the o-rings Ford carries OK or should I go to International? They will have the crush washer as well? My Uncle who had a friend @ IH always took care of these type parts so never bothered to ever go else where until I moved.
Dieselboy.
New member
TARM check your PMs on the O rings
Groomzybanshee
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Broken nozzle?
Chvyrkr
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Cracked nozzles aren't that uncommon.
I'm thinking a burned up copper washer can lead to fuel washing down a cylinder though.
Maybe I've been wrong for years on that?
I'm thinking a burned up copper washer can lead to fuel washing down a cylinder though.
Maybe I've been wrong for years on that?
Vader's Fury
Active member
Is it possible that the old copper washer didn't come out of the inj bore when you removed the injectors before installing the new ones? That would throw the spacing off on everything and make the inj a bear to seat....
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
no, a copper failing is 100% from a mis installation...coppers don't fail...unless the installer jacked up the install.
in no world can an o-ring on these injectors put fuel or oil INTO the cylinder...UNLESS the installer flubbed..AND the copper wasn't crushed...which would then allow the fuel in cyl...
but that's not a fault of the copper...nor the o-ring...thats an install problem.
Injector (mis)installations always always always (ok, usually
) show up within 2 weeks (usually a day or three) of the installer flubbing...as o-rings can't prevent 1500+ EGT from burning them up...that's what the copper is for...and unless I'm mistaken...Tarm has had these injectors for farrrrrr longer than a few weeks..which is why I'm standing by the "it's not a copper, or o-ring" deal
Sorry for spelling I am on my phone @ Dollywood taking the fcamily on the rides.
Actually Dave ,
You are correct I have had the injectors in for months butg due to some family health issues ectg itg had maybe a week at most of driving. That runninjg was also very easy. Not a single WOT or hard run. So not your fault as norfmally your assumption would be spot on. I fully accept I could have flubbed up the install on the number 2s cylinder if it turns out to show fuel blowing past a crush washer. I posted about having a real PITA getting #2 t seat fully. After numerous tries, plenty of lube, ect I finally tgot itg to install where thye soleniod tops all seemed levelo to a straight/edge. But the injector never gave that bottomed out pop in feeling a injector has when it seats. I havge no idea why. I inspected tghe new and old injectors. Both looked good. Old orgi factory ones only had 100k of very easy miles with only 5k on a chip and it was babied. The oldx one was super clean and orings looked good. I recall checking all injj for the copper washer and all were good. I cleaned each port and checked the cups visually and were gtg as best I could see. But for whatever reason that one inj was just terrible to seat. Ofr course now in retrospect that is the one thatg souunded loud and where the pinging sound seemed to orginate from when it finally started blowing fuel and lost power. I just can not understand what is/was the cuase of it not seating properly as right now looks to be the case????? Something slightly out of spec on a oring or the like? I am just throwing ideas out. I do not recall that one being much worse than the others to pull when I did the swap.
How to proceed? I will need a full oring and copper washer kit? Visually inspect the nozzle or should I call Nate and see if I should send it back to be checked out by him? I hate to be down another full week for mailing times unless it needs. To be done. If it does it does. I'm not going to cut corners and risk melting a piston to try and save few days.
So what are the opions on how I should proceed?
Injector had maybe 300 easy miles at very most when it blew.
Actually Dave ,
You are correct I have had the injectors in for months butg due to some family health issues ectg itg had maybe a week at most of driving. That runninjg was also very easy. Not a single WOT or hard run. So not your fault as norfmally your assumption would be spot on. I fully accept I could have flubbed up the install on the number 2s cylinder if it turns out to show fuel blowing past a crush washer. I posted about having a real PITA getting #2 t seat fully. After numerous tries, plenty of lube, ect I finally tgot itg to install where thye soleniod tops all seemed levelo to a straight/edge. But the injector never gave that bottomed out pop in feeling a injector has when it seats. I havge no idea why. I inspected tghe new and old injectors. Both looked good. Old orgi factory ones only had 100k of very easy miles with only 5k on a chip and it was babied. The oldx one was super clean and orings looked good. I recall checking all injj for the copper washer and all were good. I cleaned each port and checked the cups visually and were gtg as best I could see. But for whatever reason that one inj was just terrible to seat. Ofr course now in retrospect that is the one thatg souunded loud and where the pinging sound seemed to orginate from when it finally started blowing fuel and lost power. I just can not understand what is/was the cuase of it not seating properly as right now looks to be the case????? Something slightly out of spec on a oring or the like? I am just throwing ideas out. I do not recall that one being much worse than the others to pull when I did the swap.
How to proceed? I will need a full oring and copper washer kit? Visually inspect the nozzle or should I call Nate and see if I should send it back to be checked out by him? I hate to be down another full week for mailing times unless it needs. To be done. If it does it does. I'm not going to cut corners and risk melting a piston to try and save few days.
So what are the opions on how I should proceed?
Injector had maybe 300 easy miles at very most when it blew.
Pull the glow plug out on that cylinder and turn it over by hand. If you get fluid shooting out at TDC you have found the bad one, if not repeat till you find out which one is hydro locked. Pull the injector on the bad cylinder and see whats up.
UNLIMITED_DIESEL
New member
Tarm,
Send me your mailing address. I will get you a set of injector orings out tomorrow. If you get them all out and you don't have any orings burnt then I would say we may have a cracked tip. If that is the case, we can get it switched out, but I would recommend sending them all in so that we can switch them all out. Usually if there is a tip cracking failure, it is a manufacturer's "lot" of them, not just one. Either way, Let us know and we will get you taken care of.
Send me your mailing address. I will get you a set of injector orings out tomorrow. If you get them all out and you don't have any orings burnt then I would say we may have a cracked tip. If that is the case, we can get it switched out, but I would recommend sending them all in so that we can switch them all out. Usually if there is a tip cracking failure, it is a manufacturer's "lot" of them, not just one. Either way, Let us know and we will get you taken care of.
