7.3's do not "stick" nozzles. Period, end of story.
When I say sink 16's in two what I mean is one to set, one to sink, unless you have really quick fingers, I've never been able to do it without one to set, one to sink.
Seating injectors
- Thread starter yzmatt
- Start date
7.3's do not "stick" nozzles. Period, end of story.
When I say sink 16's in two what I mean is one to set, one to sink, unless you have really quick fingers, I've never been able to do it without one to set, one to sink.
neverkickn
New member
If you can't sink a 16 in one you are doing it wrong. Pull the trigger on the nail gun and bam, sunkLOL
yzmatt
New member
Got my injectors today and my pcm yesterday. I know what I will be doing tonight:joy:
littleredstroker
New member
the question is this, Using a 22oz estwing framing hammer and given the installer ate his captin crunch, how many swing to seat an injector ?
Alfie
New member
Mmmm 22oz. That's a baby. Use a 5lb hammer. 6 good wacks and 2 more for good measure.
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yzmatt
New member
you guys are cracking me up. I do have a question or two if anybody is available. Installed my injectors and the second to last one installing has a paint mark on the top by the plastic plug in of the injector. Is that for the number 8 cylinder? My original were all the same so figured the same for these. And I used a rubber mallet hit them full swing (insert sarcasm) tap tap until the tone changed and tightened them down. One injector is just a smidge high. It was hard for me to fell it. Thats how little it is. Go with it?
yzmatt
New member
Hey thanks. No the plug is normal. AC I think. They were all the same I do know that. The nozzles are all the same code on them when I looked. What about the height.
Dont worry about markings on them, the one for #8 will have a "LL" after the "AD" (or whatever code they are) and the solenoid may be a different color.
I bump them in with my fist to get them started, then tap to fully seat, torque, tap and torque again.
Every time I do this I find they require more torque after the second tap.
I dont use a strait edge anymore, seems as if not all solenoids are the same.
I bump them in with my fist to get them started, then tap to fully seat, torque, tap and torque again.
Every time I do this I find they require more torque after the second tap.
I dont use a strait edge anymore, seems as if not all solenoids are the same.
yzmatt
New member
Thats what I was hoping to hear. It all seemed right as I was doing it. That solenoid is a darker color.
yzmatt
New member
Ok going outside and taking off the valve covers to read the codes.
yzmatt
New member
They are AB injectors and all the same. The other bank has one just a stinkin tad high also. I checked the cups before I put the injectors in and they are all down all the way. I could feel the copper orings compress when I was torquing the bolts, kind like a compression valve. So unless somebody convinces me that there's a problem I going to assume its the solenoids.
yzmatt
New member
28oz. thank you very much.
So again in my efforts to try and see what in The **** the issue is... I failed again..
I installed one injector by hand til it plopped into bore. Hand tightened outboard bolt amd torque itnto 9 ft lbs. Which is spec for a 1999 for some reason. I watch the height the whole time and It maybe sank down a **** hair. I hit it three times with a rubber mallet and re torqued to 9 ft lbs. Bolt didnt move. I than went to the most common spec which is 120 inch lbs. Bolt did move than but of course im going up in torque....
Injectors seated perfectly.....
I installed one injector by hand til it plopped into bore. Hand tightened outboard bolt amd torque itnto 9 ft lbs. Which is spec for a 1999 for some reason. I watch the height the whole time and It maybe sank down a **** hair. I hit it three times with a rubber mallet and re torqued to 9 ft lbs. Bolt didnt move. I than went to the most common spec which is 120 inch lbs. Bolt did move than but of course im going up in torque....
Injectors seated perfectly.....
Alfie
New member
^^ you really torque injectors down?
I'm sorry I don't. I'm not gonna lie. There is only a few things I torque
Head bolts
Main bolts
Fuel lines (6.4 & 6.7)
Flywheel bolts
Rod bolts
Am I a hack? LOL.
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I'm sorry I don't. I'm not gonna lie. There is only a few things I torque
Head bolts
Main bolts
Fuel lines (6.4 & 6.7)
Flywheel bolts
Rod bolts
Am I a hack? LOL.
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Alfie
New member
Of course not. I'm lazy.
I honestly don't know a tech that torques thos bolts down. But then again we don't do high performance just dealer repairs.
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I honestly don't know a tech that torques thos bolts down. But then again we don't do high performance just dealer repairs.
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I install by tq to spec, a light rap with a soft face deadblow, then retorque. Lay the VCs over heat up and then check tq. I tq exactly to spec. IMO the number was given for a reason. What I have found though is that I have not had retq move anything very noticeable. The ones I tend to concern myself with are the ones I can not get my arm over top of. But if I get that tell tale thud by hand a rap of the deadblow does not seem to make much of a difference in tightness. But I still do it.
I have changed over the years and now I am quite particular about things like this. I use to tighten thing up to what I thought was tight which meant "overtight" Maybe its my time working and build firearms and dealing with psi, yield strengths, stretch, etc of fasteners. I torque everything to the factory spec and use the specific grade of bolt unless upgrading. I use some form of loctite or antiseize depending on application. I have found you end up with almost no issues such as: rounded head, twisted off bolts, crushed gaskets, warped parts, leaks etc.. I go to spec, break loose, torque again. Then do a couple heat cycles and recheck on any engine or suspension parts.
I have changed over the years and now I am quite particular about things like this. I use to tighten thing up to what I thought was tight which meant "overtight" Maybe its my time working and build firearms and dealing with psi, yield strengths, stretch, etc of fasteners. I torque everything to the factory spec and use the specific grade of bolt unless upgrading. I use some form of loctite or antiseize depending on application. I have found you end up with almost no issues such as: rounded head, twisted off bolts, crushed gaskets, warped parts, leaks etc.. I go to spec, break loose, torque again. Then do a couple heat cycles and recheck on any engine or suspension parts.
