Vanilla Ice buildup thread....

BlueWaffle

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didn't split a boot....blew apart a clamp. did a roll into WOT from about 30 and it blew at about 40 psi. heard stuff scattering all over the place underneath so I thought I tossed a rod for a second. i was about to send Gare a large invoice.....
 

PTSUPERD

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Going to get it tommorow. Hopefully have a cast wheel to swap in soon. Matt's gotten all he can out of it tuning wise. Says its a blast to drive...just tapped @30 psi...

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PTSUPERD

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It was making like 26 psi max. Matt played with some stuff and its holding 30.

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Mwilbur516

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It was making like 26 psi max. Matt played with some stuff and its holding 30.

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Thats exactly what the MTW is doing on my truck. I'll be watching this thread for your final solution. I'm running a bat-mo-wheel what about you?
 

Mwilbur516

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I've talked to Matt and he says he can make my turbo hold 30psi @ WOT, but in a week or two I'll be upgrading to a MTW Hybrid (64.7x88), so I decided to wait till I have that turbo on. It will be the last turbo to go on my truck for a while. Chris at TSD tweaked a his SPD tune again for me and it runs amazing, but only holds about 27-28psi. He told me to call him back after I've run the truck a bit and we'd tweak it some more. I know he'll get it, but I may still try a Gearhead SRL X or IDP Xtreme X tune before its over. I do hope you get this figured out soon though, I know how annoying it can be wondering how much, if any, your leaving on the table not achieving that desired boost level.
 

Mwilbur516

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We've seen several guys with 05-07 trucks that just would not hold more than 26-27psi @ WOT. I've been working with Chris and Vivian. My truck will make upwards of 33-34psi when rolling in to ti (mechanical gauge) and hold 30-31psi when I first load a tune then after it learns, I'm back to making 29-30 psi rolling into it and holding 26psi @ WOT. It's somewhere in the tuning, just gotta find it.
 

Gearhead

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I have the duty cycle set to default to 30% once the EBP sensor gets pissed off with the drive pressure and gives up. There was no point in running inferred EBP as the truck runs beautifully as is. It will be a good comparsion if the regular wheel makes more boost than the batmo....... with the EBP being exactly the same before and after, it will be a good comparsion on how the compressor flows. It's not really cleaning up the fuel either so that is probably adding to the drive pressure. I'm only running 1.8ms of PW too so that's what I can't figure out, that shouldn't be a whole hell of a lot of fuel for a 75% nozzle.
 
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Hotrodtractor

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I have the duty cycle set to default to 30% once the EBP sensor gets pissed off with the drive pressure and gives up. There was no point in running inferred EBP as the truck runs beautifully as is. It will be a good comparsion if the regular wheel makes more boost than the batmo....... with the EBP being exactly the same before and after, it will be a good comparsion on how the compressor flows.

Being devil's advocate here - and I really don't know how this all plays out in the end but - in order to know which compressor wheel is truly flowing more under the same circumstances don't you need to know more about the ambient and intake air temperatures? If the cast wheel makes more boost, but is noticeably hotter - is it really more air? I know I'd like some more info about the whole turbo wheel comparison. There is a whole host of different opinions - some swear by the new wheels - some swear at the new wheels - some just want to make educated choices - and even more want to just follow the new fad.

I purchased a batmo equipped charger based on the recommendations from a very well known shop that it would broaden my power curve and add more air at lower turbo shaft speeds (which would be beneficial for lowering smoke and towing at higher power with lower EGTs). I don't know what the outcome of my experiment into this controversial wheel will be - I know I don't expect it to add to my peak power - but I do hope that it performs well at the task I need it to - if it doesn't I'll chalk it up as a learning experience and make sure to tell everyone when I switch to a billet wheel of another manufacturer.
 

Powerstroked162

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Being devil's advocate here - and I really don't know how this all plays out in the end but - in order to know which compressor wheel is truly flowing more under the same circumstances don't you need to know more about the ambient and intake air temperatures? If the cast wheel makes more boost, but is noticeably hotter - is it really more air? I know I'd like some more info about the whole turbo wheel comparison. There is a whole host of different opinions - some swear by the new wheels - some swear at the new wheels - some just want to make educated choices - and even more want to just follow the new fad.

I purchased a batmo equipped charger based on the recommendations from a very well known shop that it would broaden my power curve and add more air at lower turbo shaft speeds (which would be beneficial for lowering smoke and towing at higher power with lower EGTs). I don't know what the outcome of my experiment into this controversial wheel will be - I know I don't expect it to add to my peak power - but I do hope that it performs well at the task I need it to - if it doesn't I'll chalk it up as a learning experience and make sure to tell everyone when I switch to a billet wheel of another manufacturer.

I expect it to decrease your peak power number but make power sooner in the RPM band vs the latter. Either way, you know my experience and stance :D


Heard Matt tore the tread off the rears of V. Ice during some testing. Gearhead FTW!! lol
 

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