Where did I go wrong?

The Brad

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i have this exact issue, except with my 238/80's. ALWAYS have had high egt's. Always 1000* plus when towing no matter what. Did bellowed uppipes, new boots, checked for leaks etc. Will huff gray smoke at idle no matter the temp with a raw fuel smell, sub par mileage. Always had the issue with FFD238/80, shouldve pulled them and sent them back when i first got them to check them out, but i just thought it was the nature of the beast. Recently did a compression test. 400-450 on all cylinders. 268,000 on the clock

I beginning to think people are understating their egts. My truck with stock turbo, injectors and DP tuning would tow circles around the truck I have now. I run 1000* egt doing 65 up a 2-3% grade UNLOADED! I think my WW2 is useless under 2200 rpm, which I think is why they came out with the billet 6/6 wheel.

I don't know what to suspect with any certainty. Since the romp isn't oil temp correlated....hmmm.

It never did this as a stock inj truck?

When stock it probably romped 4 times in 13 years and that was either at high altitude, or really cold mornings. But idle was always smooth.
 

Dmstrucks02

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just feels like it falls under the turbo unless im really moving
Try putting the stock wheel back in the turbo and see what happens
Mine felt like that with the WW2 in
Towing a rzr I could see black out the exhaust over an over pass
It was strong at 30 psi tho
I didn't run it long, put the stock wheel back in and it's all good now
 

Dmstrucks02

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Same issue here. I think the WW2 was designed more to make the impressive dyno number, than usable low RPM boost. So my next question is, D66 wheel, Riffraff 6/6, or stock wheel? I'd hate to go back to the obnoxious whistle of the cast wheel.
Yea which is great for a sled puller or play truck
But mine stays near or below 15 psi or so most of the time
 

TyCorr

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Oh man, you guys are overlooking the biggrst piece of the puzzle. 35s screw up your rpms at od lockup which sucks for towing.That ww thing (pos is the best description) is going to give you higher egts simply because it needs to be turning to move air. I have 35s and that same dumbazzed wheel and once the truck finds od the egts creep up. Smaller tires, bigger gears, or ditch that stupid wheel and put up with the noise.

Mine would get hot empty just because it would go into od and be kinda luggy at that point.

Tires are simply a load. Loads increase egts. We put my billet wheel in a stock truck with a 38r and his egts were higher at 65 in od than with the stock cast 38r wheel. Pretty good way to check. Im afraid those wheels are junk unless you are burning some r's.
 

The Brad

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Here's a little update. After doing a compression test a few weeks ago, my truck started to crank a little too long before it would start. Most of the time, it would start fine, but every now and then, it would crank for at least 10 seconds and then idle and ICP would go crazy, then it would calm down and run normal, not smooth, but the same rough idle I'm used to. Fast forward to last Tuesday, I left work, drove 3 miles and shut it off. Ten minutes later, I went to start again, and no go. I cranked the starter while watching the gauges on my Torque app. ICP wouldn't go over 270, and IPR was at 65% dc.

I had it towed home and found the HPOP reservoir low, so I filled it up and after a bunch of cranking, it started, and once warmed up, ICP was at 470-490 with DC at 9-11% (normal). I took the truck out for a few hard runs and everything was normal and HPOP reservoir was full...until the next day.

Anyway, loooong story short, I replaced the ICP sensor (had oil in the plug), new IPR valve, put a gauge on top of the reservoir (40 psi while cranking), and dove under the valve covers to look for o-ring/poppet valve leaks (none found). I finally dead headed the HPOP, filled the reservoir, and the same thing only makes 250psi cranking.

Now for my questions. What would make an HPOP fail intermittently? ...and could the bad HPOP allow oil in the reservoir to drain back down to the pan? I left the reservoir full tonight with the pump still dead headed and I'll check it tomorrow.
 

The Brad

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Oh man, you guys are overlooking the biggrst piece of the puzzle. 35s screw up your rpms at od lockup which sucks for towing.That ww thing (pos is the best description) is going to give you higher egts simply because it needs to be turning to move air. I have 35s and that same dumbazzed wheel and once the truck finds od the egts creep up. Smaller tires, bigger gears, or ditch that stupid wheel and put up with the noise.

Mine would get hot empty just because it would go into od and be kinda luggy at that point.

Tires are simply a load. Loads increase egts. We put my billet wheel in a stock truck with a 38r and his egts were higher at 65 in od than with the stock cast 38r wheel. Pretty good way to check. Im afraid those wheels are junk unless you are burning some r's.

I agree on the WW2, but I've had 35's on this truck since the odometer read 3000 miles. The solution to bigger tires is cancel OD. Only once in 15 years did I ever have to drop to 2nd gear to cool the egts, and that was pulling 10k up an 8% grade, and some dumb a$$ pulled out in front of me, and I couldn't get my momentum back. You won't hear me whining about gets under 2000rpm, but my truck with AD's, stockish turbo, and tunes would tow circles around my current setup in terms of exhaust temp.
 

The Brad

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Well crap! Forget what I said about the dead headed HPOP pressure. It just dawned on me that when cranking it over by shorting the solenoid, that the IPR wasn't being commanded shut. I had my wife crank it with the key and my 3000psi gauge pegged instantly. Now what?
 

The Brad

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if hpop stayed full overnight while deadheaded then you have a injector or orings messed up.

live life full throttle

You win a prize! Now for more questions. What would cause the upper 2 o rings to erode away in 12000 miles on 2 injectors? The o ring failures were lined up with the split in the metal top ring (see picture).

Also, why didn't this show up as a higher IPR duty cycle?
 

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A bad batch of o rings went out a while back. The same exact thing happened to me. Re o ring all injectors and you'll be good to go.
 

PSD POWER007

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It's a PIS injector oring thing. I fought the eroding oring thing for 10k miles. All just like yours. Finally pulled all 8 injectors out and put Alliant rings on and no problems since. Made sure that FF used Alliant rings when I swapped over to their injectors.
 
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It's a PIS injector oring thing. I fought the eroding oring thing for 10k miles. All just like yours. Finally pulled all 8 injectors out and put Alliant rings on and no problems since. Made sure that FF used Alliant rings when I swapped over to their injectors.

I believe other people had issues with the O rings, not just pis.
 

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