2002 crank no start
- Thread starter Turbosuzuki
- Start date
Arisley
Moderator
Look down in the valley. You will find a wire connected to a round thing with a hole in the middle. You will also find a spacer about an inch tall. you should also find a tin nut. put those back on the IPR and all will be good to go.
Turbosuzuki
New member
rusty1161
Member
Check the wires in the split loom. Years of oil and fuel leaks will break down the insulation and cause what happened to my harness.
Rusty
Have you tried unplugging the icp yet? In your first picture, it looks like the old style and like its leaking as well. You could be shorting your vref enought to not start if its leaking extremely bad.
Turbosuzuki
New member
I sure will because at the connector they are slick with oil and whatever. Have to see how far they go or where they run to.
Turbosuzuki
New member
Yes still no start. That connector had oil in it though when I unplugged it, can't be good for it.
Turbosuzuki
New member
Thanks again guys yall have been really helpful and I am sorry this topic has dragged on for so many pages it's become embarrassing I am going to buy my own test light. It won't be but a cheap one for now it's all I can afford but I will go back over the fuses in cab again.
bruce
Active member
Don't buy a test light. All that can test is voltage. Buy a digital multi-meter that way you can test resistance, power, low impedance, safer for electrical components. I've had to use a harbor freight dmm to do checks before, better than nothing
Turbosuzuki
New member
The reason why I was looking at a test light was simplicity. Don't want to mess anything up, I watched a few YouTube videos and those meters have a bunch of settings I don't understand . The meter would be better though like you said just have to go to hf ànd get one. Watched one vid guy was teaching how to work a meter, he was touching this and that twisting a knob shoving it in outlets I was lost lol.
Arisley
Moderator
It's easy. Choose what you are testing. Ohm's (resistance), DC voltage, AC Voltage, Current (amps or milliamps). Choose which range, remember most vehicles are 12 VDC (actually closer to 15 VDC), so just choose a range higher than that. For Ohms, choose a higher range, see what the resistance is and lower the range to match. A short will give full needle sweep, an open will give no needle movement. Resistance will be somewhere in between. The higher the resistance, the less needle movement you will get. The most accurate readings will be the one that puts the needle somewhere near mid scale.
bruce
Active member
with as many videos as there on youtube, you have to be able to figure it out. A test light is a waste of money if you're doing anything more than wiring a trailer.
Turbosuzuki
New member
Yes I have watched several they speak of backfeeding through the fuses if you have it set wrong and even though it's a small voltage it could hurt something. One guy said pull the fuse but I will just check them I'm not pulling all those damm fuses just to check them.
Turbosuzuki
New member
Ok guys the fuse checked out but i just went ahaed and changed it, #22. Still just spins over but there sounds like a knock or a dead spot when spinning over. I cant explain but i will try to post a vid and see if you guys can hear it. I also checked the oil in the reservoir tank again and its low. I filled it up and tried cranking it a couple times not sure if its leaking out or where the oil is going.
Last edited:
dsberman94
Well-known member
Check the valley for oil.
Turbosuzuki
New member
Its had oil in the valley not sure whats new or old, something is leaking i was told it was the hpop.
rusty1161
Member
Turbosuzuki
New member
Rusty i wont lie man i have no idea what i am looking at. What wires are those?
rusty1161
Member
For me, it was the plug for the IPR. Find where is connects and pull back the split loom and inspect the wires. Mine were completely bare copper and shorted the circuit causing my no start.
Rusty
