Fuel cooler delete/relocation

oneturboforme

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Adding a fuel cooler inline wouldn't be a hard thing to do either. Snatch one off a 6.6 and throw it in by the tank

Very true, or like i mentioned above there cheap from summit racing.... Just a single pass...
and if uou have a aftermarket lpfp the stock loacations perfect for it
 

Powerstroked162

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Very true, or like i mentioned above there cheap from summit racing.... Just a single pass...
and if uou have a aftermarket lpfp the stock loacations perfect for it

Good point. 7.3's return fuel to to the tank from the rails. Haven't added a cooler yet. No real need to. The fuel will never reach the temp where powerloss occurs. Never hurts to throw it in if it helps you sleep LOL

Good to have options for guys that might want one though.
 

BFT

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Looking at the pic mike out up... If the actuator is such a problem then making a fuel block or looped system to any current coolant line. It seems like an in and out set up, similar to a water cooled turbo set up, correct?
 

blk350on20s

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Check my setup in my build thread. Im wanting to get my vgt actuator gone and have had a few cinvos but nothing thats really turned me away from it. I have my fuel temp sensor deleted so is my vgt actuator even getting coolant circupated. Id love to get rid of that whole system. I have an 18" finned trans cooler for my fuel return and its been warm but i can hold my hand on it.

Any questions let me know. My build might only be in psn
 

oneturboforme

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Umm not sure on this but I think.. what tells that pump to turn on is the fuel temp..so if you don't have a fuel bowl that cooling system is pretty much worthless.... i coyod be wrong but i dont remember anything other sensors in that system....
 

lubeowner

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The coolant does not go through the actuator its self. There is a block bolted to the side of the actuator. Not really sure how much heat it really transfered into the block. There are heat fins on the side of it which i think are to better transfer heat. So i dont see any seals or pressure of the cooling system being an issue.

The reason heat is an issue on common rails more then on an old 7.3 is beacuse of the pressure the fuel system runs at.
 

BFT

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The coolant does not go through the actuator its self. There is a block bolted to the side of the actuator. Not really sure how much heat it really transfered into the block. There are heat fins on the side of it which i think are to better transfer heat. So i dont see any seals or pressure of the cooling system being an issue.

The reason heat is an issue on common rails more then on an old 7.3 is beacuse of the pressure the fuel system runs at.

thats another thing i was going to get at.

how well would a small cooler do, similar to what the oil cooler from bullet proof? would ambient temps be enough to keep the fuel good?
 

Fast-6.0

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One thing to think about for anyone maxing out their fuel demand before you remove your fuel cooler.

The fuel exiting the HPFP runs to the cooler then to the fuel bowl, it can then go back into the HPFP or to the tank depending on fuel pressure.

If you remove the cooler from the top of the engine then I would assume you are going to put a cooler down low or not at all and send the fuel to the tank.

Now here is the issue, if you are maxing out your fuel system (meaning your HPFP is working at its max) then by returning the fuel to the tank rather than fuel bowl (or Elite Airdog) can cause your rail pressure to drop. The fuel bowl (or Elite Airdog) is regulating the return. If you remove that then expect to drop rail pressure, and/or make your HPFP work harder (higher duty cycles).

On another note: I can't see anything logical about running the HPFP return back into the HPFP inlet without a cooler but then again bling takes a back seat to power for me.

Just some thoughts....
 

BFT

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A cooler set up like this?

dieselfuelcooler.jpg
 

Powerstroked162

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The coolant does not go through the actuator its self. There is a block bolted to the side of the actuator. Not really sure how much heat it really transfered into the block. There are heat fins on the side of it which i think are to better transfer heat. So i dont see any seals or pressure of the cooling system being an issue.

The reason heat is an issue on common rails more then on an old 7.3 is beacuse of the pressure the fuel system runs at.

I'm aware. Engine heat will/can still saturate the fuel as well. While the 7.3 does not have a high fuel pressure injection setup to create heat, it still picks up heat off the cylinder head passing through the rail. It may not be as high as what the 6.4 is seeing sure but I doubt we're talking drastic temprature differences.

What are the specs on that cooler, nachos?
 

lubeowner

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On The American Ride with a 3 gallon fuel cell and no coolers on the fuel, the fuel would get so hot the truck would sound like it dropped a valve at the end of pulls. Then installed a fuel cooler and putting it in an ice box the truck wil melt 10 pounds after each pull.
 

Dzchey21

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On The American Ride with a 3 gallon fuel cell and no coolers on the fuel, the fuel would get so hot the truck would sound like it dropped a valve at the end of pulls. Then installed a fuel cooler and putting it in an ice box the truck wil melt 10 pounds after each pull.

Did you ever measure the actual fuel temps?
 

oneturboforme

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One thing to think about for anyone maxing out their fuel demand before you remove your fuel cooler.

The fuel exiting the HPFP runs to the cooler then to the fuel bowl, it can then go back into the HPFP or to the tank depending on fuel pressure.

If you remove the cooler from the top of the engine then I would assume you are going to put a cooler down low or not at all and send the fuel to the tank.

Now here is the issue, if you are maxing out your fuel system (meaning your HPFP is working at its max) then by returning the fuel to the tank rather than fuel bowl (or Elite Airdog) can cause your rail pressure to drop. The fuel bowl (or Elite Airdog) is regulating the return. If you remove that then expect to drop rail pressure, and/or make your HPFP work harder (higher duty cycles).

On another note: I can't see anything logical about running the HPFP return back into the HPFP inlet without a cooler but then again bling takes a back seat to power for me.

Just some thoughts....

this may be correct lubeowner, all i know is when i had the same set up with my sct it held fuel pressure even on erics race tunes, now on my mini max on wild(3 out of 4) it will drop pressure quick, the only difference is when i had the sct i had a reg on it.. also like i said before, the factory return is regd at the fuel bowl to 3psi
 

BFT

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What are the specs on that cooler, nachos?

trying to find that out.
they are used for dmaxes and added to or replacing their stock cooler. the fan is hooked to a remote switch that you manually turn on/off.
after speaking with the guy he said that he recommends it being on the return line. the drop in temp from stock, on a dmax, has been 10-20. the cooler and fans come with instructions for installation. i just have to find space to put it now that the airdog is it the place i would put it.

what is the size of the fuel return?
 

oneturboforme

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1/2 once its on thw frame rail... Also you can buy coolers like that with fans from.aummit... Honestlt way overkill
 

BFT

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id rather have way overkill then not enough, peace of mind for me.
im looking for an efficient way to cool down the fuel in my truck. ive had the fuel pretty hot where it feels like it loses power...not an option when towing and having big tires.

i also have an airdog so the lines on the frame rail arent any good
 

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